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replacing Hall effect pickup coil in distributor

 
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9060
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 10:10 pm    Post subject: replacing Hall effect pickup coil in distributor Reply with quote

It's not a how-to, because I didn't take detailed pictures, etc, of the process. However I wanted to share the results. Bosch part # for this seems to be 01503 or 050120... maybe... it's really unclear. There's also a number shown on the packaging of 1 234 211 018. On the labeling from the retailer (Volvo guys) it's shown to also apply to the Volvo 240DL with Bosch ignition.

I'm sharing this as, while it was done on our racecar, the results would apply to a street car - everything here's basically stock - and would result in a better, smoother-running car with more power!!! (wasn't there a post here somewhere about getting more power for $20?)

So this is the wound coil that sits under the rotor with the two leads coming out, known as the pickup coil, that you plug the small connector to in the side of the distributor. It provides the signal to the ignition box to fire the coil and provide spark.

Replacement was on the racecar, the '79 924 NA. Symptoms were missing at high revs under load - 5500-5800 RPM. It would still pull through the flat spot, but just felt like it was breaking up. We already replaced the wiring between the distributor and ignition box (I use a Permatune, but same would apply to stock) and while that had helped (gained about 5hp across the whole power band, per the dyno), the miss was still there. So we decided to take a chance and replace the pickup coil. It should cost in the neighborhood of $20USD.

While we haven't had the car back on the dyno since, results were immediately apparent on-track - car pulled harder at all rpm, and no further miss was found. I wouldn't be surprised if we picked up another 5hp across the board.

Installation requires removal and disassembly of the distributor, as the whole assembly must be removed from the dizzy - the screws are underneath. This requires removal of the rotor, the vacuum advance unit (from the side of the dist), etc. You'll need snap-ring pliers, small ones, in order to do this (in addition to the standard flat-head screwdriver).

MAKE SURE to loctite ALL screws: we didn't, had them fall out, and had timing bouncing all over the place while racing as the vacuum advance unit had come loose and was flopping around all over the place, sending our timing far off.
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2007 1:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you mean the coil inside the spark distributor?
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
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Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2007 1:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Correct.
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Vaughan Scott
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Benino  



Joined: 30 Jan 2003
Posts: 508
Location: Vista, CA (San Diego County)

PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2007 3:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This isn't an upgrade ... just a fix for failing ignition right? Just wondering because you said more horsepower for $20. I replaced mine on my 931 recently because it was cutting out on me mostly at high rpm. This fixed it right up.

Ive done this on 2 distributors. the hardest part is lifting out that metal ring with the 4 points on it, as it seems to want to stick on there. Its also important to keep track of the tiny little locater pin that keeps that piece in place. The first time I did it it took me quite a while as I wasn't sure how it came apart. On the second distributor I actually did it in place without removing the distributor. I just loosened it so that I could rotate it to get to all the screws. It went a bit faster, but I'd recommend removing the distributor. I scratched my hands up a bit loosening and tightening hard to reach screws.
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
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Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2007 5:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Correct - it's a repair, not so much an upgrade!

Good point on that locator ring - I remember that, now that you mention it...
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isuras2  



Joined: 17 Jun 2005
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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 1:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the place to get these is at the Volvo dealer (retailer)?
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 5:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or just any aftermarket parts supplier that sells Bosch replacement/aftermarket parts...
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe this is one of the reasons my car came to life after installing EDIS.

Min
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 11:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just an update on this, I did talk to Jason at Paragon and confirmed that they can indeed get the pickup coil. There seem to be two different ones depending on year, not sure if they're interchangeable, but here they are... we used the early one, first one listed, Bosch part# 01503.

http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/pp-035.905.315.htm
http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/bosch_01502.htm
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vdub6v  



Joined: 07 Jul 2016
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Location: West Chester, PA 19382

PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2022 1:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Benino wrote:
The hardest part is lifting out that metal ring with the 4 points on it, as it seems to want to stick on there. Its also important to keep track of the tiny little locater pin that keeps that piece in place.


Resurrecting an old post here. I removed the c-clip and wavy washer above the metal ring with the 4 points. I was hoping the pin securing the metal ring with 4 points would just fall out but I wasn't so lucky. Any trick to getting the ring out?
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924RACR  



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2022 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a press fit - you'll need to pry it off carefully, with a couple of flat-head screwdrivers...
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