| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
924RACR

Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 9060 Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
|
Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 10:10 pm Post subject: replacing Hall effect pickup coil in distributor |
|
|
It's not a how-to, because I didn't take detailed pictures, etc, of the process. However I wanted to share the results. Bosch part # for this seems to be 01503 or 050120... maybe... it's really unclear. There's also a number shown on the packaging of 1 234 211 018. On the labeling from the retailer (Volvo guys) it's shown to also apply to the Volvo 240DL with Bosch ignition.
I'm sharing this as, while it was done on our racecar, the results would apply to a street car - everything here's basically stock - and would result in a better, smoother-running car with more power!!! (wasn't there a post here somewhere about getting more power for $20?)
So this is the wound coil that sits under the rotor with the two leads coming out, known as the pickup coil, that you plug the small connector to in the side of the distributor. It provides the signal to the ignition box to fire the coil and provide spark.
Replacement was on the racecar, the '79 924 NA. Symptoms were missing at high revs under load - 5500-5800 RPM. It would still pull through the flat spot, but just felt like it was breaking up. We already replaced the wiring between the distributor and ignition box (I use a Permatune, but same would apply to stock) and while that had helped (gained about 5hp across the whole power band, per the dyno), the miss was still there. So we decided to take a chance and replace the pickup coil. It should cost in the neighborhood of $20USD.
While we haven't had the car back on the dyno since, results were immediately apparent on-track - car pulled harder at all rpm, and no further miss was found. I wouldn't be surprised if we picked up another 5hp across the board.
Installation requires removal and disassembly of the distributor, as the whole assembly must be removed from the dizzy - the screws are underneath. This requires removal of the rotor, the vacuum advance unit (from the side of the dist), etc. You'll need snap-ring pliers, small ones, in order to do this (in addition to the standard flat-head screwdriver).
MAKE SURE to loctite ALL screws: we didn't, had them fall out, and had timing bouncing all over the place while racing as the vacuum advance unit had come loose and was flopping around all over the place, sending our timing far off. _________________ Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
morghen

Joined: 21 Jan 2005 Posts: 9095 Location: Romania
|
Posted: Wed May 09, 2007 1:02 am Post subject: |
|
|
you mean the coil inside the spark distributor? _________________ Supercharger and EFI kits
https://www.the924.com |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
924RACR

Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 9060 Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
|
Posted: Wed May 09, 2007 1:41 am Post subject: |
|
|
Correct. _________________ Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Benino

Joined: 30 Jan 2003 Posts: 508 Location: Vista, CA (San Diego County)
|
Posted: Wed May 09, 2007 3:48 am Post subject: |
|
|
This isn't an upgrade ... just a fix for failing ignition right? Just wondering because you said more horsepower for $20. I replaced mine on my 931 recently because it was cutting out on me mostly at high rpm. This fixed it right up.
Ive done this on 2 distributors. the hardest part is lifting out that metal ring with the 4 points on it, as it seems to want to stick on there. Its also important to keep track of the tiny little locater pin that keeps that piece in place. The first time I did it it took me quite a while as I wasn't sure how it came apart. On the second distributor I actually did it in place without removing the distributor. I just loosened it so that I could rotate it to get to all the screws. It went a bit faster, but I'd recommend removing the distributor. I scratched my hands up a bit loosening and tightening hard to reach screws. _________________ 1980 Porsche 924 N/A USA
1980 Porsche 924 turbo USA
1987 Porsche 944S USA |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
924RACR

Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 9060 Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
|
Posted: Wed May 09, 2007 5:57 am Post subject: |
|
|
Correct - it's a repair, not so much an upgrade!
Good point on that locator ring - I remember that, now that you mention it... _________________ Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
isuras2
Joined: 17 Jun 2005 Posts: 458 Location: Phoenix, AZ
|
Posted: Thu May 10, 2007 1:53 am Post subject: |
|
|
So the place to get these is at the Volvo dealer (retailer)? _________________ Rob
'80 931 (sold)
'80 924 NA (sold)
Former Omaha Crew |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
924RACR

Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 9060 Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
|
Posted: Thu May 10, 2007 5:06 am Post subject: |
|
|
Or just any aftermarket parts supplier that sells Bosch replacement/aftermarket parts... _________________ Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Min

Joined: 04 Nov 2002 Posts: 2368 Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada
|
Posted: Thu May 10, 2007 9:57 am Post subject: |
|
|
Maybe this is one of the reasons my car came to life after installing EDIS.
Min _________________ Custom means it didn't come from a box.
1980 n/a with EDIS and Megasquirt II Injection. 7 different colors and counting. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
924RACR

Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 9060 Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
vdub6v
Joined: 07 Jul 2016 Posts: 41 Location: West Chester, PA 19382
|
Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2022 1:55 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Benino wrote: | | The hardest part is lifting out that metal ring with the 4 points on it, as it seems to want to stick on there. Its also important to keep track of the tiny little locater pin that keeps that piece in place. |
Resurrecting an old post here. I removed the c-clip and wavy washer above the metal ring with the 4 points. I was hoping the pin securing the metal ring with 4 points would just fall out but I wasn't so lucky. Any trick to getting the ring out? |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
924RACR

Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 9060 Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
|
Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2022 9:51 pm Post subject: |
|
|
It's a press fit - you'll need to pry it off carefully, with a couple of flat-head screwdrivers... _________________ Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|