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Stupid 924 question amnesty
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 1941
Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep.
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Rattlinbone  



Joined: 21 Jun 2009
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Location: Seattle, WA

PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was that "Yep" intended for me?
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RC  



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 2637
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

@ Rattlinbone
Yes. Check the wire connection. Looking at the sender from the rear of the car, the connector spade on the left is fixed to the sender body, this is ground and the brown wire goes here. At upper right is the connector for the gauge, the PURPLE wire. Test the circuit by momentarily shorting the purple wire to ground and the gauge should swing to full. The lower right is the idiot light connector, the WHITE wire (with black stripe IIRC, think the purple wire has one too) goes here. Shorting this to ground will test the idiot light circuit.

If the sender still does not seem to operate, while the tests move the gauge and illuminate the idiot light then the sender may need to be overhauled to ensure a permanent connection. Recall that Rich H wrote a how to on dismantling & cleaning it.


Scorpio wrote:
I have too many questions in this section it scares me !
1) will strong silicon vacuum hose have any issues if being used as a hose carrying hot coolant between coolant transfer tube and head?
2) what are the two vent tubes on the inlet manifold for ? One is straight to the brake booster and the other? Control pressure for cis perhaps
3) cwhat is the venture style tube for? And where does ut go when coming off the brake booster

My Haynes is in the toilet and I can't get to it because I'm having a rest day


1) I would not use or trust a vacuum type hose with no reinforcing. The cast ally fitting is for 12mm hose and the common 1/2" size is at least 0.7mm too big for a good seal. I used a 12mm reinforced PVC hose there that is sus, particularly for the temp rating. Problem is getting hose in 12mm ID. Some on UK ebay, but can`t find any locally. Rang around the speed shops & hose suppliers the other day with no luck, but will see if a 3/8" REINFORCED silicone hose will fit OK. Perhaps a 1/2" silicone hose will have enough "squish" to seal properly, but the rubber heater hose does not, and the clamp eats into the deformed rubber. Will LYK the result soon.

2) Recall that fitting, think it went to a valve to vent the cannister, or some other pollution BS that fell off years ago. Had that hole welded up as its just above the larger CSV hole that I tapped to take the MAT sender. It doesn`t matter what way things are connected to the manifold for vacuum., just keep the "sealed" (no flow) lines, such as MS MAP line, gauge, FRP, BOV, separate from the brake booster line or any other that "flows" much. That way MS won`t see a pressure drop when you use the brakes. The molecules in air must move quickly as B&G tested 100 foot of vac line (from pressure/vac source to MAP sensor) with no measurable delay.

3) You mean the T fitting with the little take off? Not sure, think mine was capped. Not used now anyway as explained above. Only NEED the one way valve to the booster, larger black & white valve, black end goes to manifold. This valve obviously NEEDS to be perfect for a blown application.

MRPETE wrote:
RC wrote:
Had a good look inside and found no snakes, loose marbles, nuts, change or empty stubbies. The rollers were/are round and well greased in their tracks. Same rattle as with previous window & mechanism. Same rattle with NO window even. Not good on bumpy roads but also there on dead smooth bitumen or concrete.



Sounds like it is coming from the door catch area, close to my ear on RHD drivers door. Have moved the pin on the body up, down and in, makes no difference.

I know its an old car and can turn the music up heaps but all the other old/lose/rattling/shaking noises are fixed. Any more ideas? Anyone have a similar noise especially those with stiffer suspension or mounts?


I fouund my window guide rail weld had come loose...drove me nuts!!


Where abouts was it lose MRPETE?
Presume the spot welds broke off. All looked to be fixed but have to remove the door skin again soon so will take another look.

This bloody door is really giving me the $hits. Window dropped down, off the runners, a couple of weeks ago, again. With some patience can manipulate it full down or right up and jam the bastard shut. Have refitted the channel & rubber a few times now. Superglue did not last long, nor did Araldite epoxy. Stuck it on good with polyurethane (windscreen type sealant) but was about 1/4" off the original (guessed) location. Was nowhere the extreme of travel winding it up & down with the door stripped. As $hit happens, went to wind it up when pissing rain and the F***ing thing falls off the track!

Swear I`m gonna fill this whole door up with expanding foam soon. Should reduce the rattle and keep the window up too.
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Allan @ DTA wrote:
I have no issue with superchargers, they are for guys who want to drive a car rather than talk about horsepower with their baseball cap on backwards
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 1941
Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 4:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RC wrote:
The molecules in air must move quickly as B&G tested 100 foot of vac line (from pressure/vac source to MAP sensor) with no measurable delay.

Yep, pressure waves like this travel at the speed of sound. There's no need for the molecules to propegate from one place to the other, just the pressure wave.
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Mike924  



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
Posts: 2601
Location: IoW UK

PostPosted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 4:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ +1
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MRPETE  



Joined: 07 Nov 2010
Posts: 67
Location: CALGARY AB CANADA

PostPosted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Believe it .The rail had broke loose at the bottom but it sounded like it was near the top. Good acoustic sealing of the door? But that's where it were.If that's not it try drivin' over bumps with the door skin off.Good Luck Bud
Pete
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MRPETE  



Joined: 07 Nov 2010
Posts: 67
Location: CALGARY AB CANADA

PostPosted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just re-read your post.Try this

1 check tracks for rigidity and alignment(the front rail does break at the bottom)
2 If all is good check the winder mechanism for broken parts and ease of movement
3 Lube if not good .Hell lube it anyway you're in there
4 If the glass is out of the mech, or loose stick it in urethane will work. clean all surfaces(and prime)
5 Put the window nearly to the top (closed)and hold with tape.
6 wind up the window and put the sash onto the glass
7 Wind up the window to the top.

The sash/glass should self align Make sure before the glue sets.
let it cure overnight (keep it warm) voila.

let me know huw ya make out.Vitamin B is good for stress and luckily, beer is full of it Pete
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Scorpio  



Joined: 05 Jul 2007
Posts: 1957
Location: Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RC

Quote:
3) You mean the T fitting with the little take off? Not sure, think mine was capped. Not used now anyway as explained above. Only NEED the one way valve to the booster, larger black & white valve, black end goes to manifold. This valve obviously NEEDS to be perfect for a blown application.


What is this one way valve..cant find mine if i had one?..easily purchasable part?
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leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
Posts: 2222
Location: gOLD cOAST Australia

PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

@ Scorps
should be located into the brake booster inlet.... can get them from BB reconditioners for around $10,
stops boost from releasing the vacuum out of the brake booster... as the boosters role is to vacuum assist the brakes and is a vacuum trap.
Stu
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Rattlinbone  



Joined: 21 Jun 2009
Posts: 265
Location: Seattle, WA

PostPosted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It WAS that simple! I switched the wires around and now I have a fuel gauge! Thanks for your help!

Okay, new stupid question. My suspension is shot. To get it all good and happy, what do I need to get? Shocks? Springs? Struts? I don't really know what the good stuff is and I am hoping to get some relatively simple answers. I do NOT want to completely overhaul the suspension, just the stuff that will make my ride go more smoothly. I'm looking for an opinion, vis a vis brands and products.
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Rich H  



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Posts: 2665
Location: Preston, Lancs, UK

PostPosted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No idea on brands but normally the shocks are the first hing to go, the torsion bars a tthe rear are bullit proof, the spring on the fron pretty much the same.

However, I would also take a good look at the wishbone bushes at the front and the strut top mounts too. If the suspension is goosed some of them will be too!

Changed one side's wishbone bushes and ball joint in about 30 mins last week in the snow. Doesn't take long with the right tools and it's relatively cheap too (£50 for all the front bushes and balljoints inc post and VAT)
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Rattlinbone  



Joined: 21 Jun 2009
Posts: 265
Location: Seattle, WA

PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, I'll look into just shocks before I go whole hog on everything. Can anybody recommend a couple or three brands worth considering?

Okay, next question, it's about time for that first oil change. What do you suppose would be a good type to go for? I'm thinking a 10W30 synthetic from, say, Castrol. Anybody care to share an opinion?

Speaking of which, and here's a REAL dumb question, when it's cold out, like in the mid-to-low 30's, when I start my car up, I get a pretty good size cloud coming out of my tailpipe; but when the engine warms up, like in about 5 minutes or so, that smoke goes away and it appears to run pretty clean. Is that normal or should I be concerned?
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Mike924  



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you sure it's smoke and not condensation of water in the exhaust fumes...?

If it's smoke, yes; if water no.
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 1941
Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 2:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rattlinbone wrote:
Okay, next question, it's about time for that first oil change. What do you suppose would be a good type to go for? I'm thinking a 10W30 synthetic from, say, Castrol. Anybody care to share an opinion?

Lots of opinions on oil around here.

10-30 might be okay during the winter, but that's too thin for summer driving.

I've been using Castrol 20-50 year round; it doesn't get too cold around here.

And, just dino juice for me.
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 4:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Castrol is claiming on there holiday commercial to have
a better synthetic than mobil1. Its on HDAutovision
on the cable tv.
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