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Lots of progress done but need some help..
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mgatlag  



Joined: 02 Aug 2007
Posts: 647
Location: Avon, IN

PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 3:45 am    Post subject: Lots of progress done but need some help.. Reply with quote

hey boys. Well I've been silent for a while, been busy finishing all my fire certs. Let me tell you where I'm at with the car now...

Pulled the motor and put new gaskets and seals on everything except the head. Painted the block and reinstalled with a new clutch. Did a torque tube rebuild (will do a how-to with lots of pics soon) and reinstalled the TT.

Ok here's where I'm stuck. Got everything back in and the motor sounds great, everything buttoned up on that end. BUT when I now push in the clutch, I can't get it into gear. It just grinds, bad. I've adjusted the play at the end of the cable where it has the 2 adjusting nuts and I've also tried adjusting the lever arm that attaches to the rod that pushes the throwout bearing. I looked in the Haynes book and did it just like they say but it's not working!! What is going on here????? I've been in the garage for about 2 weeks and getting excited to put it back on the road and now this...

On a side note.. HUGE thanks to Vaughan and Chris for the TT bearing carriers and Dan for the goodies.
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Michael
'77 1/2 924 N/A- 5 speed Audi box
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Mike924  



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
Posts: 2601
Location: IoW UK

PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 4:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Mike.

The method for doing the clutch cable adjustments in the Haynes manual are confusing, to say the least, particularly as regards the order of doing things.

The way to do it is this:

1) Before fitting the cable, adjust the release lever arm: Take out all the play in the thrust bearing by pressing the fork arm and bearing against the clutch plate through the little access hatch in the bell housing. With things in this position, adjust the lever arm so that the hook that the cable engages in is 138 mm (IIRC) below the cable bracket.

2) Then, fit the cable and adjust the cable length to get the 20 mm free play at the pedal.

Do not use the cable adjustment to set the 138 mm dimension.

Hope this is clear and good luck!
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mgatlag  



Joined: 02 Aug 2007
Posts: 647
Location: Avon, IN

PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 1:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the reply Mike924, I did do it just that way and the damn thing still won't engage fully and let me put it in gear. I've done several clutches and never had this problem before. I REALLY don't wanna have to pull it again but it looks like I may not have a choice. Any other ideas?
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'77 1/2 924 N/A- 5 speed Audi box
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'92 Jeep Cherokee Laredo - gone!!

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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 1:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Won't avoid having to pull the motor if this is the case, but is there any chance you got the clutch disc installed the wrong way around?
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you replace the pilot (needle) bearing? The one that is pressed into the back of the crank?
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mgatlag  



Joined: 02 Aug 2007
Posts: 647
Location: Avon, IN

PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 1:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I think you can only put the clutch in one way, I don't think the pressure plate will go on if it's backwards. And yes I did put a new needle bearing. Could I have damaged it when I pushed the drive shaft in?
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Michael
'77 1/2 924 N/A- 5 speed Audi box
'04 Ford Taurus - gone!!
'92 Jeep Cherokee Laredo - gone!!

Porsche... better than tea with Miss McGill
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 1:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mgatlag wrote:
Could I have damaged it when I pushed the drive shaft in?

Yes. Did you have the proper alignment tool? What about the guide sleeve, did you replace that, or make sure that it wasn't damaged before reassembly?
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 2:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would start by trying to diagnose if the pressure plate is releasing the clutch disk.

With the engine off and car in gear (4th or 5th), see if you can get it to roll with the clutch pedal depressed.

If you can, then I would think this means you've got a fried pilot bearing.

Another trick to try is the one used after a car has been sitting a long time, and the clutch plate sticks to the flywheel. Put it in gear (4th or 5th) with the engine off, one foot hard on the brakes, then hit the starter. This will break free anything that is holding things together that shouldn't (like rust on the surfaces). If the car still moves when you do this and you still can't shift into gear with the engine running, I don't see any alternative other than pulling things apart.

Have you verified correct operation of everything by looking through the inspection hole while someone else presses the pedal?
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
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Location: Canada

PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 2:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mgatlag wrote:
And yes I did put a new needle bearing. Could I have damaged it when I pushed the drive shaft in?


Yes. Ask me how I know. Actually, I'd rather not talk about it.
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mgatlag  



Joined: 02 Aug 2007
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Location: Avon, IN

PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 2:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the replies boys. I did have the right alignment tool so I know that's good. I do like Tom's ideas of tests though. I'm at the station today til 8pm so I'm gonna try them when I get home. I really hope this is gonna be something simple but realistically...nothing has been "simple" with this little money pit! I do have a buddy that is coming over too and I'm gonna have him push in the pedal while I look thru the access hole and check the function of everythying. Hopefully I won't have to tear everything apart again..
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'77 1/2 924 N/A- 5 speed Audi box
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'92 Jeep Cherokee Laredo - gone!!

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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 3:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you reassembled the TT, are you absolutely certain you got the driveshaft correctly positioned in the torque tube? It's not too far forward, is it?
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 4:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ideola wrote:
When you reassembled the TT, are you absolutely certain you got the driveshaft correctly positioned in the torque tube? It's not too far forward, is it?


Having not disassembled mine yet, is it possible to have the TT shaft too far forward with the transmission coupler installed?
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mgatlag  



Joined: 02 Aug 2007
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Location: Avon, IN

PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 6:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

!tom wrote:
ideola wrote:
When you reassembled the TT, are you absolutely certain you got the driveshaft correctly positioned in the torque tube? It's not too far forward, is it?


Having not disassembled mine yet, is it possible to have the TT shaft too far forward with the transmission coupler installed?


I don't think so. But now that you mention it, when I first pushed out the driveshaft from the TT I had to beat it pretty good with a 7' piece of steel rebar and BFH to get it out. I wonder if that pushed it into the coupler a little and I didn't realize it. When I pushed the shaft back into the new bearings I was able to push it in by hand and didn't have to beat it in. So maybe the shaft isn't reaching far enough into the back of the motor?
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'77 1/2 924 N/A- 5 speed Audi box
'04 Ford Taurus - gone!!
'92 Jeep Cherokee Laredo - gone!!

Porsche... better than tea with Miss McGill
(Slap Shot)
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9063
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ummm... yes, it is perfectly possible to put the clutch disk in backwards. That's why one side is labeled "flywheel side." The hub sticks out more one way than the other.

That said, I'm not sure how that would produce the results you're seeing... unless perhaps the hub is sticking onto the flywheel/pilot bearing because the long end of the hub is pointing the wrong way. From memory, I think the long end of the hub faces away from the flywheel.
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mgatlag  



Joined: 02 Aug 2007
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Location: Avon, IN

PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well I had a buddy come over and help. I looked thru the access hole on the bell housing while he pushed in the pedal. The clutch did disengage from the pressure plate just fine. I then put the car in 4th gear with the car off and pushed in the pedal, car would not move. Took it out of gear and it moved fine. So why then would it not go into gear with the car running and it grind so badly? Could it be something back at the tranny or does this still sound like a clutch area issue?
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Michael
'77 1/2 924 N/A- 5 speed Audi box
'04 Ford Taurus - gone!!
'92 Jeep Cherokee Laredo - gone!!

Porsche... better than tea with Miss McGill
(Slap Shot)
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