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Just bought teh ghettoest porsche 924
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timstar92404  



Joined: 22 Sep 2004
Posts: 2075
Location: richmond BC

PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

morghen wrote:
The coupler is made from a material that cracks and breaks into pieces when forced (with a screwdriver inserted into those long cutouts that give it the flexibility)

Good choice with the shop....you are right..i didnt think about the fact that the coupler might be stuck. Why do you want a new clutch ? is it slipping? If you dont replace the clutch and the TT is in good shape...then you can get away with just about 3 hours of labor instead of 17 as you only need the coupler replaced.



not sure what you mean by "material that cracks" the coupler is made out of pretty thick steel. I have already bought a spare

I can't tell if I actually need a tq tube or not but that is what the shop told me, could be they lied to me who knows.

definately the coupler or tq tube or both have stripped. if the tq tube is turned by the engine it does not turn the coupler, instead it just turns inside the coupler and screeches.

I have tried wedging a pry bar/ screwdriver in those slots but the coupler is not moving at all. I actuallly broke off one of the brackets on the coupler by prying on it so hard.


reason I ordered a new clutch kit, is that I have no idea how much life is left on my clutch and if I'm paying a mechanic to remove my torque tube the clutch is already basicly out so it's not going to add much to labour to install a new clutch. would be kind of stupid to pay to remove the tq tube then have the clutch fail some months later and have to pay to do it again.


it is possible that I just need a new coupler and not a tq tube and in that case I wouldn't replace the clutch until it atually failed but I can't get the coupler off so I have no choice but to go with what the porsche shop told me.

I'm pretty sure they did not actually pull back the coupler to inspect the tq tube splines and just guess that they are both stripped due to teh fact that the tq tube spins inside the coupler.


I tried everything to get that coupler off, prying on it, lifting the transmission and loosening the bellhousing bolts, wedging a screwdriver in it, soaking it in pb blaster.

I'd keep on trying but I have zero time left to work on the car because of my school and work so I have to pay a ridiculous amount of money to have it fixed.
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 9095
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey if a good job is done...there is no such thing as a ridiculous sum of money. If you broke the coupler you can now understand what i mean when i say that its made from a material that cracks and breaks into pieces easly. If you wedge a strong screwdriver into one of the coupler's channels and you hit it wit a hammer it wil break into pieces. However you have to take care not to hit the gearbox shaft or the TT shaft when you do this.

The only thing that i can help you with is to tell you that the clutch life can be estimated and measured trough an inspection window located on the bottom of the bellhousing...so basicaly you could just have the mechanics check the clutch and if its fine you could just replace the coupler and maby the TT....saving money is always good, is it not ?
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D Hook  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 3158
Location: Omaha, NE

PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

timstar92404 wrote:



reason I ordered a new clutch kit, is that I have no idea how much life is left on my clutch and if I'm paying a mechanic to remove my torque tube the clutch is already basicly out so it's not going to add much to labour to install a new clutch. would be kind of stupid to pay to remove the tq tube then have the clutch fail some months later and have to pay to do it again.



Good call.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 12:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since he lives in Canada where there's snow on the ground, like, 90% of the time anyway, THIS is the Porsche Timstar should buy next. It's so mechanically simple, even he shouldn't be able to screw it up too badly...that is, if he could figure out how to put it together:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&viewitem=&item=120311533092

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Slam  



Joined: 07 Jan 2005
Posts: 1689
Location: Wainwright, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 1:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ummm. Tim - there are two bolts holding that coupler on and you need to completely remove them both before the coupler will slide back. Shouldn't have to use much force at all.

Dan - I need one of those things!
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 2:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slam wrote:
Ummm. Tim - there are two bolts holding that coupler on and you need to completely remove them both before the coupler will slide back. Shouldn't have to use much force at all.

Yes, and if there is ANY weight at all, I mean ANY, on the torque tube due to the trans already being lowered some (i.e. as in already removed some of the mounting bolts, hint, hint), the weight of the trans will distort the angle between the driveshaft and the input shaft enough that you will NOT be able to get the couple to budge. Try putting a jack under the trans and lifting slightly (careful, don't pinch the brake lines above it), make sure both bolts are completely removed from the coupler, and then try sliding it back. If the splines are shot as you describe, there shouldn't be as much friction as normal and it should slide back. I suspect you have weight on the coupler which is causing a significant amount of your problem.
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timstar92404  



Joined: 22 Sep 2004
Posts: 2075
Location: richmond BC

PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 2:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

okay I'm not an idiot as some of you like to think I am.

yes the bolts are full out. And the reason I loosend the bolts was to raise the trans a bit as with teh bolts tight it would not budge so I also tried raisng the trans to take the weight off, still no movement.

I'm sure in theory that coupler is suppose to just easily slide off but in my case it looks like I need a sledge hammer to make it budge.
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Martijnus  



Joined: 29 Dec 2006
Posts: 2019
Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 2:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

or a plasma torch instead of a sledgehammer.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 3:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I removed the trans in the 81 Weissach that I sold to my nephew, I followed the instructions in Haynes which were WRONG . We got the trans moved so far back that we couldn't get it back forward again, and had all of the weight on the coupler. We were able to drive it back onto the input shaft using a large pickle fork (a transmission tool often used on American cars) and a hammer. Took a while, but it finally let go and we were able to proceed. Hardly made a scratch on the coupler.

Incidentally, the pickle fork was much better than using a large screwdriver because the two blades of the fork evenly distributed the force from the hammer strikes on both sides of the coupler, while the large screwdriver approach was ineffective, partly because the force could only be applied to one side of the coupler, and partly because it was hard to keep the screwdriver from slipping off of the coupler while hammer.
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timstar92404  



Joined: 22 Sep 2004
Posts: 2075
Location: richmond BC

PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 4:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

okay I slid the whole transmission towards the rear and the coupler is coming off the torque tube but it stuck on the trans side.

I want to get the car fixed today. the torque tube looks fine to me so I assume it's just the cuopler that stripped so I can get that new coupler on and it should be fine.

problem is I can't drop the transmission witht he coupler still attached to the torque tube


I'm now thinking of cutting off a big section of the spare tire area so I can pull out the trans.....


I don't have power tools though and I'm not sure what kind of saw I'd need.
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Martijnus  



Joined: 29 Dec 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 4:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

timstar92404 wrote:


I'm now thinking of cutting off a big section of the spare tire area so I can pull out the trans.....




and even I gave you a chance...
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"Rule: Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun." (C. Bell)

924 "50-jahre", 1981.
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Slam  



Joined: 07 Jan 2005
Posts: 1689
Location: Wainwright, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 4:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haynes should have made sliding that coupler back Step 1. Tim, you may have to bolt the tranny back up to take the load off the coupler, as Dan says. I did this last week and I can see the pitfalls. In my case the tranny came out straight down. I only moved it back far enough to clear the locators on the bellhousing.
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timstar92404  



Joined: 22 Sep 2004
Posts: 2075
Location: richmond BC

PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 4:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

okay like I said. I already tried removing the coupler as step one with the trans still bolted on and that did not work.

it's freakin stuck on the trans side.

I think i'm going to go and buy a dremel now with a cut off wheel and try and cut off the flange on the trans side then try and spread it apart.

it's loose and coming off the tq tube and just stuck on the trans if I can get that fkn coupler off I can get this fixed today. taking the trans out is not hard this is just driving me nuts.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 4:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slam wrote:
Haynes should have made sliding that coupler back Step 1.

Bingo!

Tim, this is where the pickle fork, a friend, and a bigass hammer come into play. Place the pickle fork on the flange of the coupler, where you won't damage it further, and smack the snot out of other end of the pickle fork to keep driving the coupler back onto the input shaft. It'll take time, probably a few breaks to regain your strength, and a whole helluva lot of smacking and cursing and swinging and hammering. Don't post back until you have that done.
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timstar92404  



Joined: 22 Sep 2004
Posts: 2075
Location: richmond BC

PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 4:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

okay I have actually made progress.

I used that pickle fork idea (thanks) and raised the trans a bit and smacked it and is moving towards teh torque tube.

problem is it won't go towards the trans.

can I just move it towards the tq tube side and just drop the trans.



also is a floor jack good enough to drop the trans? I don't want to trop the trans on myself.

I can go out and buy a utility jack around 160 bucks made for raising atvs to drop the trans.
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