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john h

Joined: 06 Nov 2002 Posts: 827 Location: Wellington New Zealand
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Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 7:36 pm Post subject: |
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Any of the 944/924S or early 944 turbo are ok - just make sure they're the ATE brand not Ggirling - the Porsche part number is 944 355 011 01.
Should have the stepped dia's marked on the cylinder and it's a straight swap over. As you're already done the fronts on the same circut plumbingwise it shouldbe just undo the joints bolt the cylinder on re do the fluid joints and bled.
One of the reason's given in the technical service bulletin on the GT (1981 publication) for the change in the brake circuits was the geometry of GT's front suspension using 911 rims now gave positive scrub radius of 30mm to the front compared to the negative scrub radius that the 924 and 931 had _________________ Remember a Porsche is not just for Christmas,
if you take it to pieces slowly it can provide anguish all year long! |
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cleethorpes
Joined: 26 Jan 2004 Posts: 186 Location: cleethorpes (oddly enough!)
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Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2005 2:28 am Post subject: |
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Just so I can get this straight in my head.
1987 944 turbo strut, hub calipers etc is a straight bolt on (might need steering ends), but the mc WILL have to be changer for the front rear.
Easy enough to buy a roll of brake pipe and fab up all 4 corners I guess, though I understand 944t rear conversion is not soo easy.
Has anyone done the conversion and could let me know as the guy who is selling the parts won't wait forever, many thanks.
also, the parts are from a 1987, should I be looking for an 86?? _________________ '24 turbo with dodgy gt bodykit......needs a new home |
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bass gt

Joined: 02 Dec 2004 Posts: 971 Location: Johannesburg for now!!
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Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2005 5:02 am Post subject: |
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NEWSFLASH!!!!!
The Wilwoods fit on a dream!! I got my set this week, and Bingo, they go straight on. The increase in pad area is very impressive. And when youu feel the weight difference...WOW. Oh, and the stock items are a bit primative to say the least.
So, to all you who were waiting for the guinea pig, well, it's me and it was a resounding sucess.
Gentlemen, start your cheque books!!
Regards,
Steve |
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J1NX3D

Joined: 06 Feb 2003 Posts: 1333 Location: New Zealand
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Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2005 9:49 am Post subject: |
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omg you're a legend!!! did u get them for $650 or $750? damn i want some... _________________ '86 944 |
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bass gt

Joined: 02 Dec 2004 Posts: 971 Location: Johannesburg for now!!
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Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2005 7:24 pm Post subject: |
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The kit here in the UK is £650. With a exchange rate of 1'8. you do the math..(ouch!!) Still, i looked into shipping and by the time i paid import duty, there was very little in it. The clincher was that the guy's at Promax, where i got them, said if they don't fit, bring them back, no questions asked. Fair enough really. Would have been a bit tricky sending the stuff back to the US.
Anyway, the kit is for two calipers, brake pads of your coice (road/race) the adapter, stainless brake lines, and a litre of ATE super blue.
Anybody in the UK should speak to Andrew at Promax, a 944 specialist in Milton Keynes.
Regards,
Steve |
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J1NX3D

Joined: 06 Feb 2003 Posts: 1333 Location: New Zealand
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Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2005 8:27 pm Post subject: |
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photos, man, photos!! _________________ '86 944 |
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gegge

Joined: 27 Jul 2007 Posts: 1124 Location: Sweden
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Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 7:32 pm Post subject: |
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Have to bump this thead.
Do you have change the diagonal routing to front-rear or just bolt it on and drive? Guess that only Wilwood pads fits to Wilwood calipers?
Is the additional braking force in the front equal to a brake bias, resulting in no rear brake lock? _________________ Carl Fredrik Torkildsen
924 turbo -81 Carrera GT RESTOMOD
924 turbo -80 Dolomite De Luxe
924 -85 DP kit, BBS RS, M030 and tuned engine
924s -86 Black on black turbo with Fuchs |
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flosho

Joined: 01 Jul 2004 Posts: 3160 Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 2:28 pm Post subject: |
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Sorry to bump this older thread, but after my auto-x, I've come to want to stop faster, and been looking into the brakes..
How much work is involved in swapping over the actual brake lines so that the set up is front/rear?
I've been looking at the wilwoods or possibly just buying 4 rebuilt calipers with good brake pads and SS lines and new fluid but not sure if that's going to give me good enough results. _________________ [This Space For Rent] |
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fiat22turbo

Joined: 18 Jan 2006 Posts: 4040 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 3:27 pm Post subject: |
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At AutoX speeds, you usually won't get enough heat into big brakes to make a big brake kit completely effective. Wilwoods, Brembos, etc typically help with repeated stops at higher speeds that generate a lot more heat and pressure.
Brake upgrades can give you the following:
extra leverage provided by the larger diameter brake rotors.
larger pad surface area
stiffer caliper improves feel and even pressure across the pad area.
In order to get good bite at low speeds and cold temperatures you'll need pad compounds that will not live at high speeds. Essentially negating some of the benefits of a larger brake upgrade.
BTW, the larger rotors equate to more rotating mass, farther away from the center of the hub, this takes more energy to move. The aftermarket calipers are usually made of aluminum and are lighter than stock, but the pads, being much larger can weigh more. An increase in unsprung weight can effect how the suspension reacts.
If it were me, I'd do the following:
Get stickier tires. Ultimately that is what stops the car. Plus you can carry more speed through the corner, into the next corner.
Better brake pad compound. EBC greenstuff or similar high friction/low heat brake pad will provide great initial bite and work well on the street. For track days you may still need to change pads for track days.
Braided brake lines provide better feel and allow more of the pressure from your foot makes it to the brake pad.
Fresh brake fluid. It is a hydraulic system with the fluid in the calipers that take most of the abuse. Once it is contaminated, the fluid doesn't work as well and again, the pressure from your foot won't make it to the pad as well as it could.
A common maintenance task between events is to bleed the air and old fluid out of the brake system.
Honestly, if you can lock the tires up at relatively low speeds then you don't need more brake, you typically need more tire. If you can't keep the tires at the limit of adhesion (or near lockup) then you need to practice your braking or make adjustments to the braking system to allow better modulation of the brakes or better balance the brakes.
Read the links I posted in the other brake thread (boosterless) as they speak about braking systems in general. _________________ Stefan
1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose) |
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Cedric

Joined: 27 Aug 2004 Posts: 2809 Location: Sweden
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Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 5:26 am Post subject: |
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I wouldn“t dare to try EBC "greenshit" as many people call them, havent heard many good things about them. On the other hand, many people really like carbotech xp8. I was recomended them by a brake guru and they work really nice. Might be worth a look. _________________ 1980 924 Turbo
www.instagram.com/garagecedric/ |
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fiat22turbo

Joined: 18 Jan 2006 Posts: 4040 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 5:55 am Post subject: |
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Huh, I ran them for a year and never had a problem. Finished second in class in my local AutoX series. So obviously, my first hand account is what? compared to the accounts you "heard" from where exactly? What were the situations behind the failures or lack of performance?
You do of course have to read the instructions and follow them in order to get the most out of the parts. This mostly means, bedding the pads properly, which most fail to do. It also helps to not drive like a complete loon and expect the parts to never, ever fail if pushed past their designed limits. Again, people fail to do research and understand that even though the parts might be better than stock, they still have limits.
EBC does make other compounds that might be more suitable to the type of driving you or others do. So if you want pads that will do it all, then go hit up www.EBCbrakes.com and look at their offerings and decide for yourself. If you really don't like their products, even after trying them then there are other vendors available that sell similar products.
Same rules apply though, pay attention to the details and you'll find the results will likely be better than others who don't. _________________ Stefan
1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose) |
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Paul

Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 9491 Location: Southeast Wisconsin
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Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 11:21 am Post subject: |
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Are your brake hoses less than 10 years old and your brake fluid less than 2 years old? _________________ White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy. |
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Cedric

Joined: 27 Aug 2004 Posts: 2809 Location: Sweden
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Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 5:39 am Post subject: |
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They have been discussed plenty of time on a other board, where almost everybody do trackdays and/or racing. Seems to work nice though on a streetcar, maybe for autocross. But i thought this car migth do trackdays to, so why not buy something better. The price different isnt that big.. _________________ 1980 924 Turbo
www.instagram.com/garagecedric/ |
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john h

Joined: 06 Nov 2002 Posts: 827 Location: Wellington New Zealand
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Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 8:58 pm Post subject: |
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| flosho wrote: | Sorry to bump this older thread, but after my auto-x, I've come to want to stop faster, and been looking into the brakes..
How much work is involved in swapping over the actual brake lines so that the set up is front/rear?
I've been looking at the wilwoods or possibly just buying 4 rebuilt calipers with good brake pads and SS lines and new fluid but not sure if that's going to give me good enough results. |
It's a piece of piss to change the lines - just need a flaring tool some length of steel tube and a bender (if yoy want to make a profesional job) I did mine about 15 years ago so memory might be failing a bit - but it took about 3 hours total.
Step 1 Run a new line from the front right down by the fuel lines and terminated at the left rear flexi joint - on my car there was even space to run it between the fuel line clamps and keep it up out of the way
Step 2 Run another line to the front right and remove the the existing right line and the tee junction just under (for USA market) the passenger's feet and cap or remove the line that goes to the back - it actually goes down the right side then crosses over to the left rear. (It's also the brake line the manuals remind you to be careful of when you remove the gearbox)
Step 3 use the existing Tee removed from step 2 to run a single oulet of the 19 mm bore into - then connect the new rear line into one side and the existing line that runs to the back right.
Step 4 Connect the new front right line into the 23 mm part of the cylinder and also the left front into the 23 mm ports.
Step 5 Bleed the brakes (I find having the engine running I get a firmer pedal) starting with back right then back left, front right front left - topping up fluid after each corner.
For some reason that escapes me at the moment I only have three outlets one the stepped master cylinder hence the tee piece for the rear brakes.
basically you should be able to do the whole job in under a day - but allow a day by the time you muck around and if you plan it correctly you just re use the existing screwed fittings and don't have to buy anything other than the brake tubing. _________________ Remember a Porsche is not just for Christmas,
if you take it to pieces slowly it can provide anguish all year long! |
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