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Stuck removing engine from '80 931

 
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iwantacarrera  



Joined: 05 Apr 2004
Posts: 99
Location: Ravenshead, England

PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 5:42 am    Post subject: Stuck removing engine from '80 931 Reply with quote

Lost my patience with it. Got a 25mm gap between the top of the engine and bellhousing but it won't budge any further. All bellhousing bolts are out. Do I have to remove the 4 torque tube bolts too?


Does the torque tube have to be pulled back or can the engine be pulled forward?


Anything else that could be blocking it?
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1981 Porsche 924/80 Porsche 931 GT rep
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My924gtc  



Joined: 14 Aug 2004
Posts: 1362
Location: 248

PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As long as you have unbolted the bellhousing, lowered the crossmember, and have everything else disconnected you should just have to rock it and kind of shimmy it forward to get it to let go of the driveshaft. It is nice to have another person working the hoist, but can be done solo. Don't be afraid to really bounce that sucker as long as the chains are secure on the hoist. I have been quite surprised by how much effort it has taken a couple times to get it free.
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MJ
'81 924 2.0L T
'82 924 2.3L SC/EFI <---online fall '06

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-nick  



Joined: 16 Nov 2002
Posts: 2699
Location: Cambridge, MA

PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 6:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The halves will not separate until you pull the rod out that holds the throw out bearing fork (this step is pointed out in the Haynes and every other "clutch replacement" writeup on the net, no offense). It's a pain. I would suggest putting a couple bolts back into the bellhousing to tighten it down then remove the 4 torque tube to bellhousing bolts. The engine will then pull free easily. This topic just came up in the general forum a couple days ago.

Search is good. Instructions are better.

nick
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iwantacarrera  



Joined: 05 Apr 2004
Posts: 99
Location: Ravenshead, England

PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wasn't actually replacing the clutch, just removing the engine and the procedure for that in the Haynes manual doesn't mention the above at all.

Thansk for the advice. I'll have a go in the morning!
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Alex Roy  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 694
Location: Springfield Oregon USA

PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, Nick is right. It's easier to separate the torq tube from the bell housing and take the clutch fork shaft out with the engine out. The problem is that the the clutch fork is hooked to the throw out bearing and it pulls it instead of pushes it as in the N/A.
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924martinirossi  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 605
Location: Seattle, Washington, USA

PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just yanked two engines out of 944's and did not remove the fork. Both came out easy.

Michael
85.5 944
86 966
80 931
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924martinirossi  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 605
Location: Seattle, Washington, USA

PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just yanked two engines out of 944's and did not remove the fork. Both came out easy.

Michael
84 944
85.5 944
86 944
80 931
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