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Installing a 951 Radiator

 
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endwrench  



Joined: 07 Dec 2002
Posts: 1629
Location: Victor, Montana

PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 11:53 am    Post subject: Installing a 951 Radiator Reply with quote

There have been a couple questions about this posted so I figured I'd take a couple pics of the way I did it. I don't claim this is the best way to do this, just my way. The pictures are pretty self explanatory. The material used was a 3 foot chunk of 1"x 1\8" aluminum flat bar I picked up at the local hardware store. I used 1\8" aluminum rivets to attach the brackets to the top of the radiator and 3\16" rivets to attach the mounting bars to the brackets. The aluminum was very easy to bend with a vise and a hammer. I was a little afraid it might break.

If you look at this picture you can see the 951 rad is about 2" taller than the 924 unit. width is about the same. The 924 unit is all brass while the 951 unit is aluminum\plastic. You'll also notice the rad fill\circulation hose that goes to the overflow\expansion bottle is located higher on the tank. I don't think this would be a problem with a stock tank but I don't know because I have a custom unit mounted behind the RH headlight and the hose reached just fine. The bleed hose near the top rad hose faces rearward rather than up so the original hose may be too short.



The upper bracket is pretty much like it looks.




The lower bracket was installed after the upper was finished but before it was attached to the header. Make and install the large "L" bracket first and attach it to the original rad mounting position then make the little one using big one as a guide. Bolt this to the rad where the original fan mounted then clamp the 2 together in the position you want them and drill the final hole thru both brackets and bolt.



After attaching my new 14"slimline fan I finished the install by drilling the upper brackets and header for 3 large 5\16" sheet metal screws on each side. I was a little unsure of using sheet metal screws but they tighten up very nicely no signs of stripping out. Weld-nuts would be a better option if these do decide to loosen up later.



Overall it was pretty easy. One other thing though. All the hose sizes on the 951 rad are about a 1\4" larger so the hoses need to be stretched a bit. Not a big problem but it will cut the life of the hose down.

I'll post back after the first +90 day we have here. That is when I was having a little trouble keeping cool. I did take it for a test run after the install and it was quite obvious I was running cooler than before. It is only 65 today but it is still running cooler than the 924 rad. I'll know better after run some data-logs for tuning.

Edit: 90 today and cool as a cucumber!!

Todd
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'79 924NA. Rebuilt 9.5:1, MSDS header, Mega Squirt Injection, MJLJ-EDIS Ignition, 1.6L Whipple Charger and Intercooler, 10lbs Boost, 944 Trans, Custom HD Clutch.
"simsport" said....superchargers are better than turbos its official!....
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-nick  



Joined: 16 Nov 2002
Posts: 2699
Location: Cambridge, MA

PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Todd,
Do you know if the 951 fans/shroud bolt to the radiator? I'm considering switching all of it.

ps - nice work
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1980 931S
15psi boost, MS-II, EDIS, 951 IC, custom intake, Ford 5.0L throttle body, Forge BOV, WB o2, G31 w/LSD, 964 wheels, 968 rear sway, Bilsteins, 200# Welt. springs. A laptop, and a partridge in a pear tree.
1991 964 C4 Cabriolet
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endwrench  



Joined: 07 Dec 2002
Posts: 1629
Location: Victor, Montana

PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 5:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The whole setup would probably work pretty nice but I'm happy with what I have. I can't get this thing hot at all now. For some reason my IC seems to be more efficiant also. I used to get 30-40 rise in temp at the intake. Sometimes a little higher. I haven't seen over 15 rise on my datalogs since. Usually no rise at all. This mod has been great bang for the buck on my setup. If you have any heating issues at all, I say go for it.

Todd
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'79 924NA. Rebuilt 9.5:1, MSDS header, Mega Squirt Injection, MJLJ-EDIS Ignition, 1.6L Whipple Charger and Intercooler, 10lbs Boost, 944 Trans, Custom HD Clutch.
"simsport" said....superchargers are better than turbos its official!....
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15505
Location: Woodstock IL

PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm about to do something similar on the Club Sport. I have a slight variation on a theme in terms of the mounting bracket. What I'm curious about is the lack of damping in your mounting solution. How well has it held up to NVH? Did you have any problems with any of the rivets or brackets failing?
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11378
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Must mount in rubber due to "mixed" construction of the rad, IMO.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Woodstock IL

PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
Must mount in rubber due to "mixed" construction of the rad, IMO.


Can you clarify what you mean by "in" rubber?

FWIW, I'm actually using a NOS alu 924S/944 rad (not the 951 rad) simply because I acquired it for next-to-nothing in a parts exchange some time ago. It's been sitting on my shelf collecting dust, and is lighter and larger than the OEM 931 rad, so I figured I'd use it.

On my setup, the rad has 3 mounting points with captive nuts along the top, and also along the bottom on the side that faces the engine. So I'm going to make simple "U" brackets for the bottom, something like this:

|______|

The engine side of the bracket will be drilled to match up to the rad mounting point and will sandwich the bracket, fan shroud and rad all together. The front-facing side of the bracket will be drilled to match up to the OEM lower mounting point (those funky little sheet metal tabs to which the lower valance also mounts). For damping, my idea was to cut up some old radiator hoses to make rubber dampers that will sit in the U-bracket. I will probably drill them too so that the bolts go through the rubber on both sides.

I'm going to make some "Z" brackets for the top, something like this:
______|
|

As with the bottom mount, the front side will be drilled to match up to the rad mounting points, and the back side will be drilled to match up to the two captive nuts that are used for hanging the stock radiator. Again, I plan to use some old radiator hoses to make dampers that will sit under the Z-bracket.

Thoughts?
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 1:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I meant was that the rad should be completely insulated (from shock and vibration) by rubber, which it sounds like you are doing.

You probably recall the factory mounting blocks are quite hard.
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Last edited by Rasta Monsta on Thu Mar 15, 2012 2:21 am; edited 1 time in total
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Woodstock IL

PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 1:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Rasta. I think I've found an additional measure to use as well. The original 2.0L-style rad has rubber grommets (056 129 669 B) which have a small metal spacer sleeve (052 109 135) which is then sandwiched between two large washers (N 011 612 3). All of these parts are still available new (and incidentally, the rubber grommet is the same part used in the timing belt cover).

I was able to find all of the grommets, spacers, and washers from the original rad. For the hole on the brackets that will mount directly to the rad, I am going to drill them out large enough to insert the OEM grommet, and will use this as an additional form of NVH isolation. I am still going to use pieces of rubber hose to protect the top and bottom plates on the rad, but will not need to mount through them when using the OEM mounting grommets. Will take pix and post back later.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since the 924S/944 rad is a bit different, I posted a separate how-to on my approach: http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=36438
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