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Overheating Help!
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skemcin  



Joined: 02 Sep 2003
Posts: 1284
Location: Plainfield, IL

PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 8:33 am    Post subject: Overheating Help! Reply with quote

Just when I was praising my car and thought everything was fine . . .

As I've mentioned in the referenced link, I've now been running my car for the last few months as a daily driver - 86 miles round trip - mostly at highway speeds. Until today, its always been fair to hot outside - cool during the morning commute and hot on the way home.

The AC is not connected (no belt) as I've been using the windows. I've used the regular cabin air blower with all levers to the far left - just blowing in fresh air.

Today, it rained and it was the first day I've had to drive in rain since I started using the car daily. So, its the first day I've moved the levers to the far right, and also the first day I've used the rear window defroster. All was going well, then the battery light went on and in the last leg of my trip (stop and go) the car was idling at 2k rather then purring at 900 as it was.

Praying I just get home, I do. Close the garage and the car planning to inspect when it gargled. Yes, I popped the hood and the coolant reservoir would intermittently shake as coolant gargled. All the hoses seemed intact but I've not completely inspected the car.

What my best course of action now - thank in advance.
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924.org (no time to complete)
9249206346 - 89k – new shifter bushings, belts, running well.
9249206347 - 8k – waiting its resurrection, no power at the fuel pump and fuse #7 blows w/power


Last edited by skemcin on Wed Sep 17, 2008 3:56 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take another look and see if your alternator-waterpump belt is there.
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'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox
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skemcin  



Joined: 02 Sep 2003
Posts: 1284
Location: Plainfield, IL

PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoothie wrote:
Take another look and see if your alternator-waterpump belt is there.
Well, yes and now. Its there, but just half of it.
lol

So its gone. So understanding as little as I do, I guess I made it home on battery powered accessories (good thing I cut my headlights to parking lights, turned the blower off, cracked the windows, and turned the wipers off) and boiling water.

BTW, great analysis Smoothie. As I've mentioned this is all new to me so I'm learning - so I'm excited about your spot on diagnosis.

From here, obviously I'll get a new belt. But with the what happened should there be anything else to look into.
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924.org (no time to complete)
9249206346 - 89k – new shifter bushings, belts, running well.
9249206347 - 8k – waiting its resurrection, no power at the fuel pump and fuse #7 blows w/power
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, just top off the coolant if it's low, and replace the belt.
Well, you could also say a quick prayer that it didn't overheat enough to damage the head and/or head gasket. (I doubt that it did.)
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'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox
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skemcin  



Joined: 02 Sep 2003
Posts: 1284
Location: Plainfield, IL

PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoothie wrote:
No, just top off the coolant if it's low, and replace the belt.
Well, you could also say a quick prayer that it didn't overheat enough to damage the head and/or head gasket. (I doubt that it did.)

Thanks again Smoothie. Too bad the wife works until 10 otherwise I'd be able to do this tonight. Looks like the Subaru is having a shorter vacation than promised.

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924.org (no time to complete)
9249206346 - 89k – new shifter bushings, belts, running well.
9249206347 - 8k – waiting its resurrection, no power at the fuel pump and fuse #7 blows w/power
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gla924sem  



Joined: 08 Nov 2002
Posts: 405
Location: Taylor, Michigan

PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 10:59 am    Post subject: overheating Reply with quote

How old is the radiator in your 924???

My 82 is a street/PCA club racer. After a 20 lap race in 85 plus weather the last few laps it was in the read zone plus pushing over 200 on my temperatuire guage but would never push anything into the over flow.

Pulled it several years ago and took it to a reliable raditor shop. He questioned my motives on having it flow checked and cleaned. From the outside it looked brand new.

He did a flow check and it was restricted. After a recore I inspected the old core. After 23 years it had alot of calicum build up and was atleast 25-30% restricted.

Pending the age of your radiator, even with great care with fluid changes and flushes, it could have built up.

Might consider a flow check
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When an idiot light comes on, always stop and take a look under the hood.

You may need to bleed the cooling system.
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Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
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skemcin  



Joined: 02 Sep 2003
Posts: 1284
Location: Plainfield, IL

PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gla924sem wrote:
How old is the radiator in your 924???

My 82 is a street/PCA club racer. After a 20 lap race in 85 plus weather the last few laps it was in the read zone plus pushing over 200 on my temperatuire guage but would never push anything into the over flow.

Pulled it several years ago and took it to a reliable raditor shop. He questioned my motives on having it flow checked and cleaned. From the outside it looked brand new.

He did a flow check and it was restricted. After a recore I inspected the old core. After 23 years it had alot of calicum build up and was atleast 25-30% restricted.

Pending the age of your radiator, even with great care with fluid changes and flushes, it could have built up.

Might consider a flow check

Great insight and I appreciate the information. According to the documentation I have on this one, the last service done on the radiator was a flush in 2001 and 2003 (one of the first things I did when I got it). So it would appear it is the original radiator. If the overflow jug is any indication as to how the radiator looks, then there is some calcium build up. I'll have to look into the larger radiator thing over the winter or in the spring. For now, I'll see how a belt an topping off the fluid does. I also need to replace the thermostat.

Paul wrote:
When an idiot light comes on, always stop and take a look under the hood.

You may need to bleed the cooling system.

I would normally do that but there are four reasons why I didn't today.

  • it was pouring rain and I was in the middle of a construction zone in bumper to bumper traffic on I-55 in Chicago - I was literally praying I would get to the next exit - coincidentally mine. That only put me 5 mile from home.
  • since this was the last leg of my commute, I knew the car was "warm" and if I were to turn it off, I wouldn't have know how long I had before it would start back up - if it would. Not that I would have had to turn it off.
  • if I popped the hood, I'm not sure I would have had the wherewithall to think - battery light = battery cables or alternator. I'm not that dumb, but my ignorance might have over powered my common sense - especially due to my forth point (below)
  • on Mondays and Wednesdays I HAVE to be home by a certain time in order for my wife to get to work in time. Any delay is more of a PITA then whatever this turns out to be.



In any respect, I appreciate all the feedback I've gotten. I just hope I can find a get a part by this weekend when I am more likely to have the time to crawl under the car and get the work done.

I'll likely get the alternator belt, a compressor belt (just to see if that works), a gallon of antifreeze/coolant, and a thermostat. Set a side a few hours (when everyone is napping) and bond with the car (again).

I'll take a lunch break during the week to read up on the belts on this car to learn a little about tension in it properly - and find out if I have a tool (if needed) for that.

Thanks again (all).
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924.org (no time to complete)
9249206346 - 89k – new shifter bushings, belts, running well.
9249206347 - 8k – waiting its resurrection, no power at the fuel pump and fuse #7 blows w/power
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968rz  



Joined: 21 Aug 2006
Posts: 537
Location: S. E. Wisconsin

PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replace/tension the alt belt but first spin the pulleys it rides on by hand to make sure they all spin smooth (water pump may feel a bit lumpy as it pushes water but it should not be HARD or stiff).
As Paul stated re-bleed the system with the cabin heat on hot (no fan), it's possable you could have an air bubble in the system now (better safe than sorry). Also idle the car for a time to test the cooling fans, they should come on when the temp gauge is around 3/4 and turn off between 1/2 and 1/4 (est).
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79 924 coupe Petrol Blue 3spd auto (wife's DD)
93 968 coupe Amazon Green 4spd Tip (my DD)
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can understand why you kept on going, risking a trashed motor in that situation is better than risking your life by stopping.

It's amazing how fast you guys drive in constuction zones and how close you drive to each other while doing it. 75 in a 45 construction zone (no workers present, but with barrels, lane changes, bumps, uneven payment, etc.) is done all the time. I had a bus pass me on the shoulder doing at least 85.
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White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.
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JackRabbit  



Joined: 11 Aug 2008
Posts: 147
Location: Clarion, Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

for whatever reason, the alternator in my '79 seems to be mounted with rubber gaskets, which after 30+ years have a tendency to deteriorate and can throw the angle of the alternator and belt off... potentially enough to cause strain/tension that could be the cause of your problem... as it takes 5 seconds to check, in your situation I'd do it and replace the gaskets even if they seem okay...
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Christopher Gear  



Joined: 09 Sep 2008
Posts: 4
Location: Sparks, Nevada

PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 1:03 am    Post subject: Radiator gurgling Reply with quote

I have a 1987 924s and have this same problem. I come to find out yesterday that the pump is seized up which has caused the gurgling in the radiator. with no pump moving water the engine boils the fuilds and creates steam in the engine. I have having trouble finding prints on the 2.5L FI front end so I can remove and replace the pulleys and the water pump. I have replace a cracked radiator from the boiling and don't want to do that again...

bet your pump is bad. unfortunately the only way do know is to pull the cover off and attempt to spin the pump pulley freely.


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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can add.. As I had a the same thing happen though at highway speeds
around 65 to 72 any way didnt notice the battery light on till it over heated resulting in a warped head on a special ported and polished head.. I blew a head gasket. this was a few yrs ago. Reminds me to get the head planed
sometime. / yea Id just top it off with coolant getting out the air bubbles out and replace the belt tightening it not to tight. You should be good to go.
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Last edited by Joes924Racer on Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:47 am; edited 1 time in total
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skemcin  



Joined: 02 Sep 2003
Posts: 1284
Location: Plainfield, IL

PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joes924Racer wrote:
I can add.. As I had a the same rthing happen though at hyways speeds
around 65 to 72 any way didnt notice the battery light on till it over heaterd resulting in a warped head on a special ported and polished head.. I blew a head gasket. this was a few yrs ago. Reminds me to get the head planed
sometime. / yea Id just top it off with coolant getting out the air bubbles out and replace the belt tighting it not to tight. You should be good to go.

Thanks guys.

Pelican Parts didn't seem to be to clear on the part, but I was able to track it down through midwesteurosport.com ~$12. Hopefully I'll get to it this weekend - or sooner.

I figured since its been a day and the car has obviously cooled down, I'd start it up to see if anything sounds or feel weird. It purred like it did before. I quickly shut it down obviously pretty quickly to keep it from heating up again and from draining the battery any more. Hopefully that is all a good sign.
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924.org (no time to complete)
9249206346 - 89k – new shifter bushings, belts, running well.
9249206347 - 8k – waiting its resurrection, no power at the fuel pump and fuse #7 blows w/power
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skemcin  



Joined: 02 Sep 2003
Posts: 1284
Location: Plainfield, IL

PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 4:08 pm    Post subject: Alternator Belt Replacement / Tension Reply with quote

Finally got time to work on the car tonight.

I ended up taking off the protection plate underneath the car to access things a little better. Another first interesting look at the car for me.

From there it was easy to access the bolt that control the pivoting, but I got down there because I had no success putting the belt on all three pulleys from above.

What finally worked as getting it around the crank first, but pushed off the pulley toward the back of the car/engine block. Then, the water pump and alternator went on easy. I then worked the belt on from the top of the crank pulley, edging the belt int he grove as best as I good - again below there I had plenty of leverage.

What eventually got it was me pulling (toward the block) as hard as I could on the alternator and turning the alternator pulling clockwise to help move the belt along.

That was the trick for me. To get tension, I discovered some reinforcing metal jetting out of the adjuster bolt bracket. I used and a crow bar leveraged against the engine block to get the tension I needed. Worked out very well for me.

While I was down there, I figured I'd try to diagnose why my muffler made annoying chirping sounds, especially when stating up. I knew it was loose by why and where.

I found the muffler rubber bushing and they had failed. So I took them off, and on the one bad side predrilled a hole for equal size wood screw. That ended up working very nicely. I've got pictures just not pulled them from the camera yet.

Anyway, I topped the car off with coolant/antifreeze and went to the grocery store and back. So the Subaru gets back to its vacation tomorrow.

Thanks again for all the help.
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924.org (no time to complete)
9249206346 - 89k – new shifter bushings, belts, running well.
9249206347 - 8k – waiting its resurrection, no power at the fuel pump and fuse #7 blows w/power
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