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931 custom in need of some love
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peterld  



Joined: 10 Dec 2006
Posts: 978
Location: Noosa Heads QLD Australia

PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2025 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, I feel your pain Mac.....or more to the point, the owner's pain. I sure hope he is reading this forum.
I had a similar situation many years ago. I had entrusted a supposedly reputable shop to build me a motor and fit to the car. On collection the owner attempted to start the car followed by a loud bang. The 'mechanic' had forgot to tighten the crankshaft pulley and the result was four bent valves. They subsequently repaired the damage, and I drove it home to run in the mechanicals.
The following weekend I achieved 2 laps of practice at a race meet before disaster struck. This time I disassembled the motor and discovered damage similar to yours. It transpired the shop had machined the crank to very early 924 specs and there was several mm of play on the thrust bearing allowing the crank to walk. Of course no one would take responsibility and ever since I do my own work.
It is possible to have the piston skirts ceramic coated, however that would only be applicable if there was light scuffing and they still remained in spec.
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Last edited by peterld on Wed Jun 18, 2025 11:23 pm; edited 1 time in total
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
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Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2025 11:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, as far as the pistons - I see no good argument to trying to reuse them.
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Mclaren924  



Joined: 13 Oct 2021
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Location: Oceanside CA

PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2025 12:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I appreciate all the replies as always gents.

Vaughn thank you for that info, I knew something was holding me up and I had a feeling it was the clutch fork lol. It's been 3-4 years since I did my 931's clutch so still trying to bat away all the cobwebs. I think we share the same opinion on the pistons, for a long term engine build that desires reliability, those pistons should not be reused. Unfortunately that probably means needing to source new forged oversized pistons, and the catch here is my customer is very much wanting this rebuild not to take half a year. From my understanding, it's probably going to be a few months wait to get a set from JE or Diamond or another similar manufacturer. If anyone can weigh in on that I would be very thankful.

Peter it definitely hurt me to see all this damage, customer has had this car 1 year and maybe put a couple hundred miles on it. Already paid 6k to other shops for a bunch of brake work and a list of odds and ends and now it needs basically a complete motor/turbo rework. There is roughly .100 crank walk laterally, going to reach out to customer to see if I can get in contact with the shop that built this motor along with the PO so I can at least get some more background on what's been done. This is a pretty fresh engine build, there was still assembly lube traces throughout the engine.

Going to shop now and will report back findings tonight.
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Mclaren924  



Joined: 13 Oct 2021
Posts: 245
Location: Oceanside CA

PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2025 3:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Currently hunting everything down.

Planning for 88 mm 8.5-1 pistons through EBS or a French company called J2L.

Customer wants to convert to an EFI setup so currently getting some info from Morghen and more than likely going to pull the trigger on his kit today or tomorrow.

Headed to shop now to start going through the clutch pack/pressure plate setup and see if that caused our issue with crank walk.

Customer will is probably going to wind up having the transmission (G31) and torque tube reconditioned and a wavetrac LSD installed. I remember a thread on here of somebody talking about a shop that new what they were doing with doglegs over here in the states, going to track that down or try to lol. You guys have any recommendations for trans/torque tube work on a G31 setup here near the west coast?
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Mclaren924  



Joined: 13 Oct 2021
Posts: 245
Location: Oceanside CA

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2025 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

peterld wrote:
It transpired the shop had machined the crank to very early 924 specs and there was several mm of play on the thrust bearing allowing the crank to walk. Of course no one would take responsibility and ever since I do my own work.


We have a winner, got bellhousing out and inspected clutch/pp combo, flywheel, and torque tube shaft. Everything here was as it should be and was the correct parts. Went back to the crankshaft and began comparing it to another one from an 80 car and there was noticeable visible and measured differences on the one that came out of my customers car. Made sure crank PN was correct for both and they were so I've come firmly to believe the crank was machined incorrectly, in turn literally tearing apart the thrust bearing and feeding metal shards into oil pump in turn into turbo and killing the turbo seal. Which than produced the large oil consumption I noticed and the large amount of oil in the charged air track.

Talked over options with the customer and he want's to do a very tasteful restomod on the car upgrading wherever possible, within some reason. Car is planned to be an enjoyable AC street car that can also be taken to the track and pushed a few times a year.

Currently have an EFI kit from Morghen on the way and have been back and forth with Donald at EBS on 88mm forged pistons. Current quote before tax and shipping is $1,155 with new wrist pins and bearings and with ceramic coating on the skirts. This is from JE and will be a 8.5-1 GT style piston. Will get back tomorrow on final price when I get done placing order.


Will be getting block bored and decked as well as hot tanked and will be getting the head decked with new guides and seats and possibly new valves.
Headstuds are a no brainer for the price as well as a cometic HG, I'm sure this is overkill but I like overkill. The rotating assembly will be a polished and knife edged stock crank with a stock set of rods and the JE pistons, will need to wait to have all the block work and balancing until pistons show up. Also debating if it's worth recommending the Crank main studs, for 150$ it is nice peace of mind to have new hardware but really my main concern is new hardware for the connecting rods. Haven't been able to find anything on this, could somebody point me in the right direction IF there is a direction at all, have a decent feeling that may be a non existent part for a one off purchase. As described before the customer will probably opt for a stock location bolt in style hybrid turbo compared to a custom manifold and aftermarket turbo setup. Goal is only 250-300 whp and the turbo we have found is said by the builder to be good for 270 give or take. The custom turbo route could definitely yield more power but at a much heftier price and time delay.

In transmission category I am stuck trying to decide between what LSD would suite this customers desired driving the best. he will ,maybe track it 1/2 times a year so I think for price and desire. A Quaife unit is unbeatable, other options are a ZF/Guard style clutch type or a wavetrac which is similar to a quaife but has a unique trick about locking up on deceleration and also being a bit more expensive. Currently in the LSD rabbit hole and not the good type , its a G31 dogleg in his car so to my understanding, a 43T fine spline diff from a 915/930 should work for this application? Correct me where I'm wrong please, but have been reaching out trying to find a LSD company that will confirm this and so far no responses or no solid answers, going to call around more tomorrow if no fruit found here.
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1979 924 Sebring "Pepper" -Sold
1977 924 Slicktop "Pennie"-Most likely parts
1979 3/5 gt clone 924- Shop Test Car
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 2762
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2025 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mclaren924 wrote:
peterld wrote:
It transpired the shop had machined the crank to very early 924 specs and there was several mm of play on the thrust bearing allowing the crank to walk. Of course no one would take responsibility and ever since I do my own work.


We have a winner, got bellhousing out and inspected clutch/pp combo, flywheel, and torque tube shaft. Everything here was as it should be and was the correct parts. Went back to the crankshaft and began comparing it to another one from an 80 car and there was noticeable visible and measured differences on the one that came out of my customers car. Made sure crank PN was correct for both and they were so I've come firmly to believe the crank was machined incorrectly, in turn literally tearing apart the thrust bearing and feeding metal shards into oil pump in turn into turbo and killing the turbo seal. Which than produced the large oil consumption I noticed and the large amount of oil in the charged air track.

Talked over options with the customer and he want's to do a very tasteful restomod on the car upgrading wherever possible, within some reason. Car is planned to be an enjoyable AC street car that can also be taken to the track and pushed a few times a year.

Currently have an EFI kit from Morghen on the way and have been back and forth with Donald at EBS on 88mm forged pistons. Current quote before tax and shipping is $1,155 with new wrist pins and bearings and with ceramic coating on the skirts. This is from JE and will be a 8.5-1 GT style piston. Will get back tomorrow on final price when I get done placing order.


Will be getting block bored and decked as well as hot tanked and will be getting the head decked with new guides and seats and possibly new valves.
Headstuds are a no brainer for the price as well as a cometic HG, I'm sure this is overkill but I like overkill. The rotating assembly will be a polished and knife edged stock crank with a stock set of rods and the JE pistons, will need to wait to have all the block work and balancing until pistons show up. Also debating if it's worth recommending the Crank main studs, for 150$ it is nice peace of mind to have new hardware but really my main concern is new hardware for the connecting rods. Haven't been able to find anything on this, could somebody point me in the right direction IF there is a direction at all, have a decent feeling that may be a non existent part for a one off purchase. As described before the customer will probably opt for a stock location bolt in style hybrid turbo compared to a custom manifold and aftermarket turbo setup. Goal is only 250-300 whp and the turbo we have found is said by the builder to be good for 270 give or take. The custom turbo route could definitely yield more power but at a much heftier price and time delay.

In transmission category I am stuck trying to decide between what LSD would suite this customers desired driving the best. he will ,maybe track it 1/2 times a year so I think for price and desire. A Quaife unit is unbeatable, other options are a ZF/Guard style clutch type or a wavetrac which is similar to a quaife but has a unique trick about locking up on deceleration and also being a bit more expensive. Currently in the LSD rabbit hole and not the good type , its a G31 dogleg in his car so to my understanding, a 43T fine spline diff from a 915/930 should work for this application? Correct me where I'm wrong please, but have been reaching out trying to find a LSD company that will confirm this and so far no responses or no solid answers, going to call around more tomorrow if no fruit found here.


The ARP rod bolts have only been prouced occasionally, i dont know if anyone like mittlemotor stock them. Otherwise theres an alternative to use some Alfa rome ones, if you search the forum you can find it, if you dont i can find it for you. I use the trick to put "site:924board.org" int google, and the thesearch words after it, then google search will go through the threads, much better than the built in search function The stock bolts are availalbe from Porsche aswell, they are expensive though. ARPs from a pinto engine work for the main studs, check Magnus rat rod thread

If you deck the block and head with the correct finish a cometic should do the trick, i use it+ARP head bolts on my rebuilt engine.

If you can find a 944 turbocharger you can take the compresor side for it +billet wheel, will work for those power targets. I would do something about the oil cooling though if its for track use, the std cooler is good for std power, but might push it to high for that power level. Be aware the injectors that comes with the kit might be to small for that power level, so bigger will probably be needed.

I have a quiafe for G31/915 sitting on my shelf, chose it because it was reasonably priced, its a road car aswell and i dont want to rebuild the clutch pack. Though for a pure track car a clutch pack has some advantages when it comes to decel and tunability. Ive talked to people around here in 944/968s and stuff and they seem very happy with the quaife type for track days etc
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Mclaren924  



Joined: 13 Oct 2021
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Location: Oceanside CA

PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2025 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Went on the hunt and found the alfa rod bolts as well as Pauter lightweight rods. Presented both options to the customer with the preface that in no way were the rods needed but would be a nice upgrade and would help with reliability. They wound up opting for the rods so they will come with ARP 2000 bolts and will take care of that issue. EBS is sourcing them at 4-6 weeks for $1150.

Going to have the RA specified to the machine shop so they deck the block and head correctly for the cometic gasket but that is a good reminder to make sure I specify it as it would be really shitty to have that cut wrong lol.

How much has been made before or is capable in theory, of being squeezed out of from a 944 hybrid turbo setup?

Last and most important question I have. Can anyone actually guarantee the fitment of a 915 diff into a g31? I'm 99% sure at this point as I just measured a G31 Diff I stripped down from a parts tranny, but would like some input from somebody actually running one. The Quaife tech specs even say it's for a 924 turbo/915/911 so I'm pretty confident at this point.

https://shop.quaife.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/QDF1Q.pdf

Morghen is wrapping up the EFI kit to send over and the pistons and rods are getting forged as I type so got a lot of the gears moving on this project.
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1980 931 "Salt" Bucket wannabe racer (Dreaming)
1979 924 Sebring "Pepper" -Sold
1977 924 Slicktop "Pennie"-Most likely parts
1979 3/5 gt clone 924- Shop Test Car
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 9082
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2025 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EFI kit is on the way!
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Beartooth  



Joined: 05 Apr 2022
Posts: 305
Location: Roberts, MT

PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2025 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mclaren924 wrote:
peterld wrote:
It transpired the shop had machined the crank to very early 924 specs and there was several mm of play on the thrust bearing allowing the crank to walk. Of course no one would take responsibility and ever since I do my own work.


We have a winner, got bellhousing out and inspected clutch/pp combo, flywheel, and torque tube shaft. Everything here was as it should be and was the correct parts. Went back to the crankshaft and began comparing it to another one from an 80 car and there was noticeable visible and measured differences on the one that came out of my customers car. Made sure crank PN was correct for both and they were so I've come firmly to believe the crank was machined incorrectly, in turn literally tearing apart the thrust bearing and feeding metal shards into oil pump in turn into turbo and killing the turbo seal. Which than produced the large oil consumption I noticed and the large amount of oil in the charged air track.

Talked over options with the customer and he want's to do a very tasteful restomod on the car upgrading wherever possible, within some reason. Car is planned to be an enjoyable AC street car that can also be taken to the track and pushed a few times a year.

Currently have an EFI kit from Morghen on the way and have been back and forth with Donald at EBS on 88mm forged pistons. Current quote before tax and shipping is $1,155 with new wrist pins and bearings and with ceramic coating on the skirts. This is from JE and will be a 8.5-1 GT style piston. Will get back tomorrow on final price when I get done placing order.


Will be getting block bored and decked as well as hot tanked and will be getting the head decked with new guides and seats and possibly new valves.
Headstuds are a no brainer for the price as well as a cometic HG, I'm sure this is overkill but I like overkill. The rotating assembly will be a polished and knife edged stock crank with a stock set of rods and the JE pistons, will need to wait to have all the block work and balancing until pistons show up. Also debating if it's worth recommending the Crank main studs, for 150$ it is nice peace of mind to have new hardware but really my main concern is new hardware for the connecting rods. Haven't been able to find anything on this, could somebody point me in the right direction IF there is a direction at all, have a decent feeling that may be a non existent part for a one off purchase. As described before the customer will probably opt for a stock location bolt in style hybrid turbo compared to a custom manifold and aftermarket turbo setup. Goal is only 250-300 whp and the turbo we have found is said by the builder to be good for 270 give or take. The custom turbo route could definitely yield more power but at a much heftier price and time delay.

In transmission category I am stuck trying to decide between what LSD would suite this customers desired driving the best. he will ,maybe track it 1/2 times a year so I think for price and desire. A Quaife unit is unbeatable, other options are a ZF/Guard style clutch type or a wavetrac which is similar to a quaife but has a unique trick about locking up on deceleration and also being a bit more expensive. Currently in the LSD rabbit hole and not the good type , its a G31 dogleg in his car so to my understanding, a 43T fine spline diff from a 915/930 should work for this application? Correct me where I'm wrong please, but have been reaching out trying to find a LSD company that will confirm this and so far no responses or no solid answers, going to call around more tomorrow if no fruit found here.


Thanks for including the price quote on those pistons - that's honestly on the lower end of what I'd been guessing. If you don't mind my asking, is that 2618 or 4032 forged? Do they even offer the choice? I'm also curious whether ceramic coating on the crown is something you considered, or if it's offered... It's a real shame about the crankshaft issue: one of those things you could probably check, but wouldn't necessarily think to. I sure ate this one up in a hurry.

Anyway, please keep us updated as to how it turns out. The pistons are about the same as what I have in mind, but my budget most likely means no big mods to the turbo, sticking with K-jet (my preference anyway, really - only with microsquirt and coil packs), and a lower power goal. I suspect, just based on my eyeballing of the exhaust manifold, that a complete fresh approach to the turbo would yield a lot of benefit once you get much over 200 HP. I'd say lowering the turbo would free up a lot of space, and even though that probably means some kind of scavenge setup for the oil return, it would allow much better piping to the turbo. Obviously, this isn't something I've got any experience with, just a case where I think I understand most of the compromises in the stock turbo setup, and they mostly stem from the need to have the turbo higher than the level of the oil so the return oil doesn't back up.
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Mclaren924  



Joined: 13 Oct 2021
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2025 4:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry for the long delay guys it has been crazy over here. So here is how the car currently sits



Customer has decided that he wants to go for a GTS style clone that is similar in form and function, will not be trying to replicate it exactly parts wise. That being said he is opting to run a GTS intake from mittlemotor and a front mount IC.

The trans is off with Jim Bennett in Santee CA to get the quaife installed, awesome guy who does a lot of VW and porsche transmissions and is a wealth of knowledge.



Beartooth you ask great questions, the pistons are ceramic coated and I opted to have the pistons made from 2618 for a couple of reasons. Ultimately it boiled down to this car being a pump gas aka 91 OCT setup, if this was going to run ethanol it's whole life I probably would have felt confident with a 4032 setup. This car is going to be shooting for 300-350 whp on ONLY pump gas so the extra ductility and fatigue resistance sold me. While it is a street car, it won't be getting driven tens of thousands of miles a year so for that reason I am not concerned about the potential premature or accelerated ware of 2618 compared to 4032. There's more to it than this but this was just my condensed reasoning for picking 2618l.

For ference about the Pauter rods, they are almost exact same price as pistons with ARP-2000 rod bolts.

I absolutely agree a better manifold and modern turbo is the way to go but that is a LARGE amount of custom fab work $$$ as well as a decent chunk of change in SS to make it all look nice and function well. Second issue is time, lotssss of time to make that work. While neither of those are reasons it shouldn't be done, my customer likes the idea of keeping stuff OEM or OEM++ so the upgraded 6ar housing with custom lancia turbine is a good fit for us. My customer wanted to go with a genuine GTS turbo setup but our supplier doesn't just have them laying around, go figure lol.

For what I'm doing now with the car, getting it ready for engine bay paint so having to clean up all the butchering the PO did to the engine bay, inner fender, and floors. The previous donkey self tapped screws to hold the 944 inner fenders in place and they put two through both sides of the footwells. Water got up in there and wrecked havoc on drivers side, passenger side isn't too bad. I also have to cut out this horrible radiator support the PO made and used silicone to seal up... Yes silicone on a "welded" up radiator support.





https://imgur.com/J4WBT8B

Final cherry on top was when I went to start disconnecting fuel lines from the bay, I had to pull all the top hard lines that run to filter, disconnect filter with a rag under and the blue rag starts turning orange. Uhhhh dafuq? I think to myself, proceed to go back to the tank and drain from the pump inlet and let's just say another issue has been found. The more and more I get into this car, the worse it gets



Ciprian/Morghens EFI kit showed up today, as a machinist myself I must say I am very impressed with the quality of the parts in the kit. It certainly wasn't free, but I think you'd wind up spending similar money if not more to make something as nice as well as have to deal with all the R&D which is not easy or cheap.



On a final side not, has anybody ever messed with the window scrapers? Holy #### toledo batman, nothing in recent memory has given me so much grief. I've spent 8+ hours trying to make it fit GOOD and it never sits flush on the door, you either get a floppy unhooked but good looking or its stiff and clipped in and looks like shit. Almost like the part doesn't fit. I confirmed PN but the new part is so much thicker and canted differently than the old part I took over, i seriously doubt I could ever get that seal to sit flush. Alright enough off topic ranting, just had to complain.

Will update more as more happens
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1980 931 "Salt" Bucket wannabe racer (Dreaming)
1979 924 Sebring "Pepper" -Sold
1977 924 Slicktop "Pennie"-Most likely parts
1979 3/5 gt clone 924- Shop Test Car
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8982
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2025 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have indeed fought, unsuccessfully, with the window scrapers.
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2025 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haha, those window trim things, absolutely evil things!

That power target on 91 is challenging, and needs a right sized turbo. One alternative is a 944 compressor as i wrote above, same size as GTS but easier to find, and there are billet wheels available. One maybe better alternative for that power level is to just make an adapter plate to the manifold and fit up a more modern turbo. Shouldnt bee to hard for you.
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Cedric  



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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2025 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crazy amount of tank dirt btw, that thing needs a complete clean out before any driving, glad you found it.
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Beartooth  



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2025 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dang, sounds like one of those jobs where you wish you could go back in time and help the PO do it right. And ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure... I do wonder sometimes if I'm overthinking 2618 vs 4032. It's an easy answer if it's going to be run at the ragged edge - 2618 obviously. More on the other end, hypereutectic pistons might actually be the best choice; the question, if you definitely need something stronger than cast, is where is 4032 enough, and where do you need 2618? On the other hand, someone building an engine that truly needs 2618 pistons is probably going to break something else rather than simply wearing them out. I'm probably an outlier who'd drive his 931 as an economy car (almost 5000 miles on mine in less than two years and getting mid to upper-20 MPG despite a very tired engine), so hence the interest in the middle gorund. Anyway, I don't think there's any doubt 2618 is the right choice in this case.

I had a similar issue with rust in the gas tank: I pulled out a coffee cup worth out of mine a couple hundred miles after I got it going. I don't know what the best solution there is: I know you can get products to coat and seal an old gas tank, but I've also heard of that stuff delaminating and making a real mess. If I can get to the point where the rust stops coming back, I might just leave well enough alone... Good to hear the positive report on Morghen's EFI kit. He obviously put a lot of thought into it, so it would be silly to do all that legwork yourself unless you were pushing well beyond its capability. I hear you too on the turbo setup; while there's quite a bit you could gain, it's a massive undertaking unless you do that kind of thing for a living. I have some idea of how much fabrication it'd take just to cobble something together. It'd probably run over ten-thousand dollars worth of fab work to have it professionally done. I'd have to be making a lot more money to justify spending that much, and to do it personally would be way more undertaking than I'd probably consider - even if I could somehow be assured it'd come out right. Anyway, it looks like the car is moving in the right direction; keep us posted!
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Mclaren924  



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2025 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beartooth wrote:
Dang, sounds like one of those jobs where you wish you could go back in time and help the PO do it right. And ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure... I do wonder sometimes if I'm overthinking 2618 vs 4032.


I'm pretty convinced for 99% of our applications at these HP goals , even this one. You'd have to screw pretty bad on something else for pistons of this caliber to be having issues, or have a poorly optimized turbo setup and be "hotdogging" it.

Yes here's my current dilemma, I'm going to have to pull tank to clean it all out and will see how bad it really is. They do make repro tanks for $800 area so will see what the real damage is.

We did wind up going for bigger injectors supplied by morghen because he wasn't confident in the regular one he supplied being enough for our upper range of hp goals. Really can't say enough good things about all the help from him along the way.

Beartooth wrote:
I hear you too on the turbo setup; while there's quite a bit you could gain, it's a massive undertaking unless you do that kind of thing for a living. I have some idea of how much fabrication it'd take just to cobble something together. It'd probably run over ten-thousand dollars worth of fab work to have it professionally done. I'd have to be making a lot more money to justify spending that much, and to do it personally would be way more undertaking than I'd probably consider - even if I could somehow be assured it'd come out right. Anyway, it looks like the car is moving in the right direction; keep us posted!


The customer is currently deciding if they want to do the GTS intake manifold with S2 TB and a front mount intercooler. Between intake itself, throttle cable, S2 TB, intercooler, all the charge piping, and labor. It will cost roughly 4-5k depending how they want the kit finished. To do a custom turbo setup with an IC you'd be absolutely well into the 5 digit territory.
This along with the time to do it, would definitely push the timeline of this car back, currently shooting for end of SEPT or beginning of OCT for dyno time.

Tinkering around with the idea of trying to make prefabbed top and front mount intercoolers that people could buy as a kit or install themselves. Same thing with intake manifolds and turbo manifolds. Will need to spec out how they will work and cost as well as ease of install. I think there is a serious market out there, especially with the NA conversion guys inspired by the likes of Safe and others.

Besides that, the car is getting stripped of power window and mirrors in choice of cup style ones and carbon fiber door cards. Think the customer is sourcing these from a British company

Planning modification of downpipe/wastegate setup, Would like to fit a 1.5 or 2 inch wastegate and a 3" downpipe. The stock one could def handle it but at a one inch diameter with that horrible bend it has to make, there is serious room for improvement. Just had my eyes on a newer B58 aftermarket downpipe from the guys down the street, MF is almost 6 inches in diameter, almost shit my self when i saw it lol. Feel bad for the poor guy having to stuff that in a 440I lol, we thought 931's were bad

anybody got any valvetrain ideas for a 7000max, rpm with a (cam dependent on GTS or stock intake) for our 931? I've read through all of mike931's and a bunch of others and truthfully I don't think the extreme custom nature of most of those builds will work in this application. This customer really likes stuff that doesn't take large scale modification to make work. Something drop in or close to it would be ideal but doubt that exists.

Those damn window scrapers...

As cedric and 924 racr said, evil things so I gave up and passed them to the body shop to do. My favorite 4 letter word got lots of use to install and still didn't work lol
_________________
1980 931 "Salt" Bucket wannabe racer (Dreaming)
1979 924 Sebring "Pepper" -Sold
1977 924 Slicktop "Pennie"-Most likely parts
1979 3/5 gt clone 924- Shop Test Car
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