924Board.org

joemoma1990 · Joined: 29 Jun 2021 Posts: 32 Location: Apple Valley, MN

I did a search but didn't find anything helpful sorry if this has been answered before.

Here is what I have done so far.

Rebuilt the fuel distributor.
Checked the fuel pressure.
Cleaned/Tested the injectors.
dumped old gas put in new gas.

I jumpered the fuel relay and if I open the throttle it will fire and run for a second then die. It will not fire if I don't have my foot on the gas.

Any ideas of what I should troubleshoot next?

Fasteddie313 · Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI

Reset your AFR screw..

Jump the fuel pump, turn the AFR screw to the right, rich, until the injectors spray a tiny bit with the airplate at its rest position, then turn it back lean just until they stop..

This will set your airplate so any movement will get it started spraying fuel..

If this doesn’t get you started, have someone else crank the car with the boot off of the AFM so you can watch the airplate..
If the airplate does not move when you crank the car you either have a very bad vacuum leak, or your engine is not pulling vacuum..

You can also finger the airplate and throttle at the same time and run it by hand under the hood..
Have someone else crank while you push the airplate just a bit and operate the throttle with your other hand..

Once you get the thing idling setting your AFR screw with the dwell meter method is the best..

Watch you don’t spray too much fuel without running because it will go in your oil and thin your oil..

If none of this works, and you have compression, you must have an ignition problem..

Have you checked for spark, compression, and such?
_________________
80 Turbo - Slightly Modified

joemoma1990 · Joined: 29 Jun 2021 Posts: 32 Location: Apple Valley, MN

I have good compression and good spark.

joemoma1990 · Joined: 29 Jun 2021 Posts: 32 Location: Apple Valley, MN

Looks like I am missing the AFR screw to adjust the AFR. I am able to get it to run if I push the air plate. I haven't replaced any vacuum hoses but I would expect it would at least run even with a minor leak.

Where should I look for a massive leak?

Fasteddie313 · Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI

Missing the AFR screw?

It’s down under the hole, you can’t really see it..
Gotta feel for it down in there.. Allen wrench, 3mm I believe..

The hole is just an access hole, and needs to be plugged when you are done accessing..

Major vacuum leak..
Between the turbo intake and the bottom of the airflow housing (under the fuel distributor).. Big rubber boot..
Throttle body to upper charge tube..
Upper and lower charge tube to the top of the turbo..
All the vacuum lines on top of the intake manifold..
Vacuum line coming off of the turbo that goes behind the timing belt..
Vacuum line behind alternator under intake manifold to runner #1..

Any vacuum hoses that are cloth covered, you should replace ALL of them..
Seriously..

It running well if you manually operate the airplate is a good sign though..
If you have it running and it isn’t sucking enough air to move the airplate itself at all, even enough to stay running at RPM, then you must have quite a major vacuum leak.. I’m guessing the boot from the turbo to the air meter..
_________________
80 Turbo - Slightly Modified

joemoma1990 · Joined: 29 Jun 2021 Posts: 32 Location: Apple Valley, MN

yea I stuck my 3mm t-wrench in there and all I found was the arm for the air plate in there.

I assumed that it needs to be plugged. I stuck a stopper in it while testing.

I will be doing all the hoses as well I was just hoping to get it to run a little LOL

Fasteddie313 · Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI

Well your definately going to need to replace that AFR screw..

Gonna have to pull the AFM and split it open..

Hope it isn’t in your turbo..
Never heard of an AFR screw gone missing before..

I might have one for you if yours is really missing..
_________________
80 Turbo - Slightly Modified

joemoma1990 · Joined: 29 Jun 2021 Posts: 32 Location: Apple Valley, MN

ok after plugging that hole I am getting a vacuum I can see the plate opening when trying to start it. However I can only get it to fire with the throttle wide open and I can only keep it running for a couple seconds before (I think) it floods out (lots of fuel smell and smokey gas smell out the exhaust.

My AFR looks like this one on eBay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/132095939843?hash=item1ec1881503:g:tOAAAOSwA3dYGA1R&autorefresh=true

Definitely need a screw or something but first gotta figure out why it won't start without the throttle wide open.

Fasteddie313 · Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI

It won’t start because you don’t have an AFR screw..

Your fuel ratio must be off the charts wrong..
You need the screw..
It’s important, LOL..
_________________
80 Turbo - Slightly Modified

joemoma1990 · Joined: 29 Jun 2021 Posts: 32 Location: Apple Valley, MN

poked around some more found the screw.

The injectors were spraying fuel all the time until I adjusted the screw. Now the car will fire without the throttle but still won't stay running.

I am looking at the cold start stuff next.

joemoma1990 · Joined: 29 Jun 2021 Posts: 32 Location: Apple Valley, MN

So after the weekend here is where I am at.

Cleaned/Tested the cold start injector.
Cleaned/Tested the Aux air regulator
Cleaned the WUR not sure how to test it.
Replaced vacuum elbows and lines all over the car. (Elbows were nice and cracked)
Checked the timing on the distributor.

After all this the car is unchanged, it will fire on the cold start then die I cannot keep it running even playing with the airflow meter. Very strong gas smell so it's getting fuel most likely too much.

In testing it looks like the spark gets weak after firing but hard to tell so I decided to go through testing the electricals.

This is where I need input my readings are waaaaaaay off.

Testing the coil
terminal 1 and 15 should be 1 to 1.35 Ohms I am getting 3.5K
terminal 1 and 4 should be 5.5 to 8.0 K Ohms I am getting 3.1K
Checked voltage at terminal 15 to ground should be close to 12 volts I am getting 150mv (ignition on)
Checked voltage at terminal 1 should be 2.0 volts? I am getting 150mv

I am guessing my coil is bad, do I need to replace the coil before doing the other tests? Or should they be good?

The delivered volts at the ICU should be near 12 volts I am getting 1.6 volts

Am I testing correctly? I am following both manuals I have.

Fasteddie313 · Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI

Change your oil if it smells like fuel or it’ll ruin your engine bearings..

I don’t know the electronics off of the top of my head but replacing an ancient coil is probably a good idea..
I don’t think they are very expensive.

The one you are supposed to get 12 V to, maybe take it off the coil and see if it gets 12v unattached..
If not it might have some weak wiring circuitry in there..

Cleaning the ends of the fuses and the fuse contacts on the fuse boxes often helps these cars out a lot..
_________________
80 Turbo - Slightly Modified

joemoma1990 · Joined: 29 Jun 2021 Posts: 32 Location: Apple Valley, MN

Ok I measured from pin 15 of the ICU to the 15 on the coil it should be 1 Ohm and I am getting almost infinite resistance.

edit - I tested again and now I am getting 5 Ohms UGH

I tested from the battery positive to 15 on the coil and it's an open connection with the ignition on..... Is it possible that the ignition switch is bad even if the idiot lights come on?

joemoma1990 · Joined: 29 Jun 2021 Posts: 32 Location: Apple Valley, MN

Got back to troubleshooting this.

I replaced the coil. The car now fires every time I hit the starter but does not stay running.

I am at a loss at what is going on.

joemoma1990 · Joined: 29 Jun 2021 Posts: 32 Location: Apple Valley, MN

Got a little farther, however my starter is starting to die.

I jumpered a wire from the battery positive to lug 15 on the coil, I got the car to start and run for a few more seconds but then the starter died.

Can the ignition switch be on for some things but not the 12 volts positive?