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924 n/a cold start issues.
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RobertN  



Joined: 19 Apr 2015
Posts: 142
Location: Lisburn Co Antrim

PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 4:26 am    Post subject: 924 n/a cold start issues. Reply with quote

Hi, fitted new plugs air filter and HT leads. Still same issue when cold, it takes a few cranks fires and stops a couple of times and then with a little extra help on the throttle initially to get her fired up she starts but idles lumpy until warm after 1 minute or so! After a run she runs brill and starts on the button. Can anyone help with the cold start please?
Thanks.
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Porsche 924 N/A 1984.
Electrical Engineering Sales to Control panel builders.
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Posts: 4448
Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hot idle should be about 900rpm
Sounds like the AAV could be faulty
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leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
Posts: 2222
Location: gOLD cOAST Australia

PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

+1
check your aav and csv are getting 12v,
if you want to pull the hose from the aav you can check the air hole is open at cold temps... it closes when warm...
It's possible its gummed up too... or the hoses around it...
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RobertN  



Joined: 19 Apr 2015
Posts: 142
Location: Lisburn Co Antrim

PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Idle is around 850/900. Wil check cold start valve for voltage.
Aav?
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RobertN wrote:
Aav?


Auxiliary air valve
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leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
Posts: 2222
Location: gOLD cOAST Australia

PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

there's a funny Porsche name for everything, it's what supplies extra air for the engine at cold starts, has a rotating disc that starts with an opening and closes after a minute or so... powered by the same circuit as the csv
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RobertN  



Joined: 19 Apr 2015
Posts: 142
Location: Lisburn Co Antrim

PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 11:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys. I understand the process now. Thermo TS for csv operation and csv and AAV work like a " choke " system so to speak?
I'll check all my hoses etc,
Is there a way to check all 3 with voltmeter/ ohmmeter?
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leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
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Location: gOLD cOAST Australia

PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 11:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

unplug the aav and apply a multimeter to the coonector looking for 12v at ignition on,
A better test for the csv is to unbolt it from the manifold with it still connected to fuel and electrics spray it into a glass drink bottle whilst cranking over the engine, it only runs for about 8 secs approx, this will tell you if the tts is working and let you monitor the spray pattern for the csv
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RobertN  



Joined: 19 Apr 2015
Posts: 142
Location: Lisburn Co Antrim

PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 2:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys. 12.6v at AAV connector on crank, but only 10.5 at csv blue connector on crank?? Haven't disconnected csv to test, but shouldn't there be at least 12v? I did notice when checking hoses etc a rubber bung at the bottom of the air flow sensor unit which had split, so I removed it and taped it up and re-installed it!!
Starts better after a few cranks and spluttering she fired up! but still a but lumpy for around a minute. After 1 minute running I switched off and back on again and she fired up immediately, should I just leave it or should she start better than this from cold?
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
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Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

starting straight up usually means the CSV is OK.
lumpy at cold could be the AAV keeping the revs too low or the WUR not working properly.
I suspect the AAV needs a removal and clean.
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RobertN  



Joined: 19 Apr 2015
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Location: Lisburn Co Antrim

PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes Ozzie, revs are low at cold idle around 650-750 ish, then climbs to around 900 after a while. I'll pull the AAV and test. I read you put it in fridge for an hour in a bag and then check the opening and then apply 12v for about 5 mins and watch the regulator to see if it closes?
You mention the WUR is that the same as the csv?
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
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Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Warm Up Regulator is also Control Pressure Regulator and alters the control pressure as it warms up to lean the mixture.
Cold start valve squirts a pile of fuel in only when cranking.
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chris79  



Joined: 29 Jan 2014
Posts: 551
Location: milan

PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 12:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have same problem of cold start, but because I replaced wur with pressure regulator set 3.4 bar (my wur is restoring).
I have to try for about 1 minute before start engine.
I have always to set control pressure about 1 bar to start engine ?
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2595
Location: MI

PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 2:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd recommend a CIS pressure test to make sure the WUR is dropping the control pressure when its cold like it should and then slowly raising it while its warming up...

Mine seems to start best when its either really cold (10-45F) or warmed up, Starts like a champ, It's in the 70's-80's here now and it seems to start and idle a bit low at these temps for a few seconds but it starts almost instantly in any condition...

I'm very impressed at how well the CIS is able to deal with cold start conditions especially real COLD starts..
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2595
Location: MI

PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 2:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris79 wrote:
I have same problem of cold start, but because I replaced wur with pressure regulator set 3.4 bar (my wur is restoring).
I have to try for about 1 minute before start engine.
I have always to set control pressure about 1 bar to start engine ?


Yeah I bet it would help tremendously to lower the control pressure on start then turn it back up after its warmed up, that is exactly what the WUR automatically does but gradually..

Remember
high control pressure = leaner
low control pressure = richer (like a choke)

your car should be

Control pressure cold (approx. 20° C): 1.3...1.7 bar
Control pressure warm: 3.4...3.8 bar
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