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Qik Nip · Joined: 16 Jan 2015 Posts: 130 Location: Kentucky

I'm knee deep in the process of removing the entire driver train from my 79 NA. While I've done this on other cars in the past, it's a first on a 924 for me. At this point, the engine is ready to come out with the exception of removing the bellhousing bolts and motor mounts. Beyond those steps, what remains is the lowering of the crossmember and sway bar.

My $64 question is this: If I remove the snailshell transaxle first and then disconnect the torque tube at the engine bellhousing, can I avoid lowering the front crossmember to remove the engine? It stikes me if that will work, it would be less labor intensive and let me do all the work on under the car standing up under my two post lift, versus having to do remove the bellhousing bolts and LH motor mount laying under the car on my old back.

All comments and (especially) corrections to any incorrect assumptions I've made here apreciated!
Rick
_________________
'79 NA 924 Land Speed Car
Bonneville G/CPRO record @ 149.825MPH
Arkansas Mile G/CPRO record @ 138.0 MPH
Great Lakes SCCA SM points champion '09,'10,'11

jason c · Joined: 13 Jan 2014 Posts: 1018 Location: Nwi

If you're removing the entire drivetrain & you have a lift, why not romove it as an entire unit as the factory did? I lower it onto car skates, raise the body, seperate the engine/TT/trans/ suspension & then roll each one around wherever you want them. Its easy to disassemble the assembly while on the floor. I do it this way all the time.

If you prefer, you can leave the suspension & cross member in the car, remove the trans, pull the TT and remove the engine from the top. I've done it this way, it takes more time and you are more likely to break/damage/scratch something.

Qik Nip · Joined: 16 Jan 2015 Posts: 130 Location: Kentucky

jason c · Joined: 13 Jan 2014 Posts: 1018 Location: Nwi

You should be able to pull the TT back far enough without removing the suspension, this is how the clutch is done.

Rasta Monsta · Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11733 Location: PacNW

However the question was whether the engine can be removed without removing the front crossmember, and I think the answer is no. Not enough pan clearance.
_________________
Toofah King Bad

WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3

jason c · Joined: 13 Jan 2014 Posts: 1018 Location: Nwi

You don't have to completely remove the cross member but you will have to lower it (remove the bolts & let it hang using the suspension to hold it up). As I said, its more of a hassle & you risk damaging something. If you're removing everything in the drivertain, its better to do it all at once through the bottom.

Qik Nip · Joined: 16 Jan 2015 Posts: 130 Location: Kentucky

daniel · Joined: 18 Jun 2009 Posts: 686 Location: Sydney, Australia

If you remove the trans you can slide the torque tube back far enough to remove the engine without touching the engine, I have done it and find it easier than loading a race car onto a trailer and getting a wheel alignment.
_________________
Over the top of skyline, total brake failure.... hit the wall at over 200 kp/h at the dipper, so anyone who has to brake for the esses is a pussy.
1977.5 Race Car, CAMS Group S Spec
1989 944 Cabriolet

Rasta Monsta · Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11733 Location: PacNW

I find it easier to align at home.

_________________
Toofah King Bad

WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3

Qik Nip · Joined: 16 Jan 2015 Posts: 130 Location: Kentucky

jason c · Joined: 13 Jan 2014 Posts: 1018 Location: Nwi

You could do it either way depending on what you remove from the engine area.
I always separate it at the TT.

What are you trying to accomplish? Drivertain swap? rebuild?

Qik Nip · Joined: 16 Jan 2015 Posts: 130 Location: Kentucky

Jason:
I'm building a land speed car to run in the 1.5-2.0 liter NA Classic Production class. As it turns our I'll probably road race it in F Production as well after it's land speed use. The limited number of of LSR events (and the distances) make a pure salt flat car a tough proposition.

The motor is now out and I've stripped it to a long block in preperation for taking it to Michael Mount to do the build. The goal is 200-220 crankshaft horsepower since that's the theoritical number the car will need to beat the existing C /PRO class record. The goal is 150 MPH. The Flats are a weird traction limited enviornment and with the elevation and heat, it has an atmospheric pressure similar to 6,000 feet above seal level.
Rick
P.S. The transaxle and TT are coming out tomorrow.
_________________
'79 NA 924 Land Speed Car
Bonneville G/CPRO record @ 149.825MPH
Arkansas Mile G/CPRO record @ 138.0 MPH
Great Lakes SCCA SM points champion '09,'10,'11

jason c · Joined: 13 Jan 2014 Posts: 1018 Location: Nwi

OK.
The reason I asked was because I was trying to tell you the easiest/fastest way to remove what you needed to.
I remove & install the drive line as a complete unit when it all has to come out. Its easier & faster. Since you have a lift, this is what I would recommend. You can always take the lower bolts out of the assembly first if your setup on the floor makes them hard to reach.

Qik Nip · Joined: 16 Jan 2015 Posts: 130 Location: Kentucky

Thanks for the help..I'll likely need more!

_________________
'79 NA 924 Land Speed Car
Bonneville G/CPRO record @ 149.825MPH
Arkansas Mile G/CPRO record @ 138.0 MPH
Great Lakes SCCA SM points champion '09,'10,'11

daniel · Joined: 18 Jun 2009 Posts: 686 Location: Sydney, Australia

Cool project, looking forward to updates. I can recommend Paeco for camshafts, I don't have the power you want but they have been very good to deal with

Cheers
Daniel
_________________
Over the top of skyline, total brake failure.... hit the wall at over 200 kp/h at the dipper, so anyone who has to brake for the esses is a pussy.
1977.5 Race Car, CAMS Group S Spec
1989 944 Cabriolet