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oharris
Joined: 06 Oct 2014 Posts: 37 Location: Peyton, CO
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Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2014 11:56 pm Post subject: Just bought an '80 931 |
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Hello all,
I just bought an '80 931! It's pretty rough, but it seems to be all there and I only gave $400 for it. It last ran 3 years ago and hasn't been licensed since 1993. I've learned from reading this board that I should replace the timing belt before doing much of anything. I also found the thread about getting a long dead 931 started so I will be following that advice.
The first problem I have is I didn't get any keys. The owner said he had it sold a year ago, gave the keys and the title to the buyer who was going to return later for the car. The guy's check bounced and he never saw him again. He got the title re-issued, but still no keys. Are the door key and ignition key the same? I'm hoping to just remove a door lock cylinder and take it to a locksmith. I found a thread on removing the lock cylinder, but one of the steps was turn the key to acc. Is it possible remove the ignition lock cylinder without the key or am I going to be stuck drilling the thing out? Is there at least a way to get the steering wheel unlocked without the key?
Thanks in advance. |
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924-76
Joined: 05 Jun 2006 Posts: 1487 Location: Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 1:11 am Post subject: Re: Just bought an '80 931 |
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Welcom and congrast on your purchase
BTW need need to see pictures
oharris wrote: | Are the door key and ignition key the same? |
Yes, unless someone changed one and not the others.
oharris wrote: | I'm hoping to just remove a door lock cylinder and take it to a locksmith. I found a thread on removing the lock cylinder, but one of the steps was turn the key to acc. Is it possible remove the ignition lock cylinder without the key or am I going to be stuck drilling the thing out? Is there at least a way to get the steering wheel unlocked without the key? |
The rear hatch lock is the easiest one to remove, 5 min at most.
Good luck _________________ 1976 924 N/A ROW SOLD
1980 931S
1981 931 Part car RIP |
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oharris
Joined: 06 Oct 2014 Posts: 37 Location: Peyton, CO
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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 2:14 am Post subject: Re: Just bought an '80 931 |
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924-76 wrote: | Welcom and congrast on your purchase
BTW need need to see pictures
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It's pretty ugly, promise not to laugh?
924-76 wrote: | Yes, unless someone changed one and not the others.
The rear hatch lock is the easiest one to remove, 5 min at most.
Good luck |
Cool, I'll check that out |
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oharris
Joined: 06 Oct 2014 Posts: 37 Location: Peyton, CO
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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 2:39 am Post subject: Re: Just bought an '80 931 |
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924-76 wrote: |
The rear hatch lock is the easiest one to remove, 5 min at most.
Good luck |
Wow, that was easy, Thanks for the tip! |
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oharris
Joined: 06 Oct 2014 Posts: 37 Location: Peyton, CO
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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 9:21 am Post subject: |
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Well here she is.
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oharris
Joined: 06 Oct 2014 Posts: 37 Location: Peyton, CO
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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 9:29 am Post subject: |
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The inside isn't too bad really.
The front seats are both splitting at the seams.
The Dash isn't too bad.
This is supposedly the original mileage.
The middle is the A/C control? There are a pair of knobs on the console that appear to go to it.
There is only one switch on the center console, what does it do?
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oharris
Joined: 06 Oct 2014 Posts: 37 Location: Peyton, CO
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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 9:36 am Post subject: |
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Under the hood. It looks like it's all there.
Something has been munching on the wires though.
What is this sensor?
Brake light switch?
The rubber covers over the fuel lines are cracked pretty badly, but they are just covers right?
Are these just covers too?
These straps that hold the air filter together are rotted through, where can I get new ones?
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fiat22turbo
Joined: 18 Jan 2006 Posts: 4040 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 11:16 am Post subject: |
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center console switch is to switch the mirror control (which is under the driver's side armrest) from right to left.
Yup, center switch in the gauge cluster is for the blower speed.
911, 928 and 944 seats will fit and there are seat recovering kits as well.
Expect to replace all, and I mean ALL of the rubber under the hood. CIS systems will not work well if there are vacuum leaks anywhere (including the dipstick) and turbo cars are very sensitive to fuel volume.
Yes those are covers for the fuel lines with a braided line underneath that is covering plastic or rubber hose which will likely be brittle and failure prone.
Plus you'll need to pull the CIS system and fuel system apart, clean it all out (starting at the fuel tank and working forward) so while you're in there...
All of the electrical connections under the hood, under the dash and in the trunk will need to be cleaned, repaired and covered in connection grease.
You've got a lot of work ahead of you, I wish you luck! _________________ Stefan
1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose) |
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lesworth
Joined: 01 Oct 2014 Posts: 1 Location: UK
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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 11:48 pm Post subject: |
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oharris wrote: |
What is this sensor?
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This is the overboost switch that cuts feed to the fuel pump relay if too much vacuum is detected to protect from over boost. I dont think you will get an earth connection to the fuel pump relay without this being connected.
The air pump straps are available from Porsche I believe.
Good luck! I bought an '80 931 in March that has been parked up in garage untouched since 2003 and just got it running. Going through fuel system as advised above is key. Both my pumps had seized and these had to be replaced. Also significant corrosion of the fuel feed and return pipes where they go up over the rear suspension and I had to cut out the rotten sections and replace with fuel hose. _________________ 924 Turbo (S1) and 911 SC |
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oharris
Joined: 06 Oct 2014 Posts: 37 Location: Peyton, CO
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Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 5:58 am Post subject: |
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I found the straps and the elbows at Ideola's garage and ordered them.
This car was supposed to have been stored inside up until 3 years ago and the seller said it ran when it was moved to outside storage. The license plates that were on it expired in 1993 though so it has been a long time since it was driven regularly. It was stored outside in Black Forest Colorado which had a huge fire last year burning over 500 homes. The car was only a couple hundred feet from the edge of the burned trees so it may have gotten pretty hot. That might explain the condition of the paint on the hood and roof, but I don't know. |
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oharris
Joined: 06 Oct 2014 Posts: 37 Location: Peyton, CO
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Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 6:10 am Post subject: |
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I've started working on the wiring which had gotten chewed. I wanted to make sure I'm on the right track as there are several that were chewed and I'm not sure exactly where they go.
I removed the alternator to take this shot. There is a pair of wires that appear to go to an injector looking thing. I took an injector connector off a Ford harness and it clicked right on. I'm assuming it connects to the pair of wires in the harness that I have laid it over here?
Also coming out of that same harness, there is a single wire sticking out. I'm thinking this goes to the ground on the left?
I'm guessing this wire in the center of the picture goes to the sensor on the upper left?
Thanks in advance. My haynes manual should get here tomorrow so hopefully I won't need so much help. |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:25 am Post subject: |
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the injector looking thing = frequency valve
pretty much what it does is open and close all the time at varying frequencies adjusted by the lambda circuit, sending some fuel back to the tank, to fine tune the air fuel ratio against what the 02 sensor tells the computer.. it changes the fuel differential pressure under the diaphragm in the fuel distributor to speed or slow the flow of fuel from the metering ports in the piston due to pressure differential, more difference = more flow
if its a bare braded wire its a ground
that sensor on the charge tube "overboost sensor" cuts fuel in event of overpressure due to a malfunctioning waste gate so it wont just produce unlimited boost..... the wire that goes to this sensor needs to be grounded in order for the fuel pump relay to come on, an overpressure situation ungrounds the sensor and stops the fuel pumps...
in short just ground that wire to get it to run..
I wouldn't advise disassembling the fuel distributor yourself, atleast not without a lot of research, a very clean place to work, and a micrometer style depth gauge to put it back together correctly... yeah that piece is $$$ and very precision
TECHTRON injection cleaner!! _________________ 80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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fiat22turbo
Joined: 18 Jan 2006 Posts: 4040 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:28 am Post subject: |
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oharris wrote: | I've started working on the wiring which had gotten chewed. I wanted to make sure I'm on the right track as there are several that were chewed and I'm not sure exactly where they go.
I removed the alternator to take this shot. There is a pair of wires that appear to go to an injector looking thing. I took an injector connector off a Ford harness and it clicked right on. I'm assuming it connects to the pair of wires in the harness that I have laid it over here?
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Yup. I believe you are likely correct.
oharris wrote: | Also coming out of that same harness, there is a single wire sticking out. I'm thinking this goes to the ground on the left?
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Also likely correct.
oharris wrote: | I'm guessing this wire in the center of the picture goes to the sensor on the upper left?
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Probably.
Better to confirm that with the wiring diagrams, but it certainly makes sense given the positioning. _________________ Stefan
1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose) |
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oharris
Joined: 06 Oct 2014 Posts: 37 Location: Peyton, CO
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Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 10:42 am Post subject: |
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Fasteddie313 wrote: | the injector looking thing = frequency valve
pretty much what it does is open and close all the time at varying frequencies adjusted by the lambda circuit, sending some fuel back to the tank, to fine tune the air fuel ratio against what the 02 sensor tells the computer.. it changes the fuel differential pressure under the diaphragm in the fuel distributor to speed or slow the flow of fuel from the metering ports in the piston due to pressure differential, more difference = more flow |
Thanks! Wow, I've got a lot to learn about CIS.
Fasteddie313 wrote: | if its a bare braded wire its a ground
that sensor on the charge tube "overboost sensor" cuts fuel in event of overpressure due to a malfunctioning waste gate so it wont just produce unlimited boost..... the wire that goes to this sensor needs to be grounded in order for the fuel pump relay to come on, an overpressure situation ungrounds the sensor and stops the fuel pumps...
in short just ground that wire to get it to run.. |
Got the function, I'm just trying to determine if it's the right wire.
Fasteddie313 wrote: | I wouldn't advise disassembling the fuel distributor yourself, atleast not without a lot of research, a very clean place to work, and a micrometer style depth gauge to put it back together correctly... yeah that piece is $$$ and very precision
TECHTRON injection cleaner!! |
Yeah, I think I'm going to try dousing it in cleaner first. It definitely needs cleaned. I took top of the air cleaner off to expose the metering valve (I guess this is the mechanical equivalent of a MAF in an EFI system). I pushed it down a little and it didn't come back up. Very sticky. |
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Ian89C4
Joined: 01 Apr 2011 Posts: 561 Location: North Carolina
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Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 1:53 am Post subject: |
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probably going to need to clean out all of your fuel lines if the fuel dizzy is sticky. Better safe than sorry on that one. There are numerous tiny passages in the fuel dizzy that can easily get clogged with the tiniest amount of fuel varnish. _________________ Ian Edgerly
North Carolina
Current:
1981 924 SCCA/ChampCar Weissach Race Car ("Serenity")
1987 924S ChampCar Endurance Car ("Der Weg")
1980 924 Euro ("Wahala") |
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