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MikeDanger
Joined: 21 Nov 2002 Posts: 770 Location: Denver
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MikeDanger
Joined: 21 Nov 2002 Posts: 770 Location: Denver
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Posted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 5:50 pm Post subject: |
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Additionally I read this post, you guys can discuss:
"I am running a volvo 240 turbo WUR. Both the Volvo and Audi 5000s use a WUR with 2 ports, one above the diaphragm and one below it. The lower port uses a check/delay valve that blocks boost and positive pressure change into the lower chamber. I've been wondering why they are plumbed like instead of a single vac/boost line above the diaphragm like the 930 uses.
From what I have observed, I think there is a difference between a vacuum WUR and a boost sensing WUR, both in the range of travel of the diaphragm but also in the "preload" of the diaphragm. The home position of a the Volvo and Audi turbo WUR's diaphram is at the top stop, which means it must be preloaded in that direction. This also means that if it were plumbed with a single vac/boost line it wouldn't provide any change in control pressure until there is positive pressure applied.
I observed this top stop home position on an audi 5000s WUR off the car (with NO fuel pressure) and watched the diaphram move from top stop at 0 psi to the lower stop under pressure. I then tested the volvo WUR on my car plumbed with a single line, with fuel pump jumpered and observing control pressures while applying pressure, then vacuum. I only noticed a drop in CP under "boost", but CP did not raise under vacuum.
With it plumbed with a check valve on the lower port, I get immediate drop in CP (which means better throttle response & less turbo lag). I need to take my spare audi 5000s WUR appart and see if my theory of diaphragm preload is correct.
Here are my findings:
1 Vacuum/boost line to top port of WUR (similar to the 911)
WCP @ 0" Hg = 54 psi (fuel pump jumpered)
WCP @ idle, 19" Hg = 56 psi
Throttle blip to 5" Hg = no change, 56 psi
AFR @ idle, closed loop = 13.2 - 13.4
Vacuum/boost line to top port, vacuum line w/ delay valve on bottom port (volvo plumbing):
WCP @ 0" Hg = 54 psi (fuel pump jumpered)
WcP @ idle, 19" hg = 47 psi
Throttle blip to 5" Hg = CP dropped to 30 psi
AFR @ idle, closed loop = 12.6 - 12.8
In the second test, what is happening is the diaphragm is pulled down some by equal vacuum on both ports. Once vacuum drops (on throttle tip in), the delay valve (like a check valve to keep boost from reaching the lower port) holds vacuum under the diaphragm while pressure rises above the diaphragm, allowing the diaphram to drop to give instant drop in control pressure and excellent throttle response. This works much like an accelerator pump on a carb would. Under boost, the top port sees full boost pressure, the lower port sees nothing." _________________ It was either this or a giant box of legos |
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kcoyle
Joined: 16 Jan 2011 Posts: 712 Location: Long Island, NY
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Posted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 4:33 am Post subject: Re: making an Adjustable Warm Up Regulator WUR |
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MikeDanger wrote: |
But heres the basics of it. You tap ( create threads) in the Pin next to the electrical plug, so that you can move it up or down to adjust the pressure. You use the screw which you insert, to pull the pin UP and you simply push it down by hammering it. |
Keep in mind that there is very little room to work and knock it back in if you pull it out too much when installed on the car. _________________ 1982 931- Stock with MBC at 8psi
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it. |
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Kenodog
Joined: 25 Jun 2003 Posts: 2660 Location: Vancouver,B.C.
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Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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Or you could just buy one already modified and with a modern, thicker diaphragm from Brian Leask... _________________ 1979 Euro 931, Olive
1981 931, Sabine
1991 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4, Ricky
1996 Ford E-350 ex-FedEx Van
2014 Mazda CX-5 (Kinderwagon)
2019 KTM 790 Adventure
2024 KLX300
2024 KLX140 |
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Carrera RSR
Joined: 08 Jan 2010 Posts: 2312 Location: Somerset, UK
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Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 5:29 pm Post subject: |
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Kenodog wrote: | Or you could just buy one already modified and with a modern, thicker diaphragm from Brian Leask... |
NLA! _________________ 1980 931 - forged pistons, Piper cam, K27/26 3257 6.10 hybrid turbo, 951 FMIC, custom intake, Mittelmotor dizzy & cam pulley, H&S exhaust, GAZ Gold, Fuch'ed, Quaife
Now www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=34690
Then www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=31252 |
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Rasta Monsta
Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11727 Location: PacNW
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Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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Several things about this make no sense. First, I'm not so sure control pressure dropping on a throttle "blip" (low revs, no boost, and no load) is a good thing. . .at all. I also don't get the author's argument that throttle response and turbo lag are improved by dumping fuel. Leask proved the contrary on the dyno - max power is obtained by enriching LATER than the factory 930/931 setup, not sooner.
And that idle AFR? Way too fat. _________________ Toofah King Bad
- WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
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Kenodog
Joined: 25 Jun 2003 Posts: 2660 Location: Vancouver,B.C.
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Posted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 2:52 pm Post subject: |
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Indeed Rasta is right. The CSV that came with the leask unit I beleive delayed the vacuum going into the WUR so you wouldn't get full fuel until later in the boost cycle. _________________ 1979 Euro 931, Olive
1981 931, Sabine
1991 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4, Ricky
1996 Ford E-350 ex-FedEx Van
2014 Mazda CX-5 (Kinderwagon)
2019 KTM 790 Adventure
2024 KLX300
2024 KLX140 |
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Kenodog
Joined: 25 Jun 2003 Posts: 2660 Location: Vancouver,B.C.
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Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 11:12 am Post subject: |
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It seems Brian is back in business... Just called him and left a message to order my rebuilt, adjustable, solenoid controlled WUR and matching FCU... Choice.... _________________ 1979 Euro 931, Olive
1981 931, Sabine
1991 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4, Ricky
1996 Ford E-350 ex-FedEx Van
2014 Mazda CX-5 (Kinderwagon)
2019 KTM 790 Adventure
2024 KLX300
2024 KLX140 |
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