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Rewiring Harness woes

 
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therinwhitten  



Joined: 11 Feb 2011
Posts: 15
Location: Sweet Home, OR

PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2011 6:09 am    Post subject: Rewiring Harness woes Reply with quote

Ok here goes. I am new to posting on here but have been a member since february. First of all, you guys are amazing and I appreciate the search function on this forum. It has helped me so much to learn the car I have.

I have done alot of stuff to the car so far. I have even rebuilt the WUR. Thanks guys for the info ^^.

Now here is my problem.....

For the last three months I had a brand new alternator installed. No heat shield (never had one). I replaced the wiring from the start to alternator. I have confirmed that the exciter wire does go to the connection at the battery and onward to the light in the dash.

However, the voltage light in the dash has never come on or off ever. It has never worked since I had the car.

Light bulb works. I have a feeling the dash needs taken out and all the rewiring done from the fusebox out to the engine to fix this problem.

The very fact that the alternator has charged without the volt light ever working makes me suspect some backyard wiring. It should not charge at all without a closed circuit. <.< So yeah see where I am coming from?

I haven't jumped into this because I just don't feel comfortable wiring the harness completely. That is what I think it needs. Most of the wiring is original anyway. So, while its broken, I would rather fix it right. Here is what I have done so far.

Rebuilt Trans, new filters all around, spark plugs, alternator, oil, coolant, grounds redone, WUR rebuilt.

Mechanically engine runs great. By the sound of the fuel pump. I am sure it will need either rebuild or replacement soon.

I am about to take the car to a porsche dealer to have the dash taken out and everything rewired. I have a feeling this will cost a ton of money..

I realized there are alot of 924 owners along the Eugene, Portland Area. Any thoughts on how I should proceed?


Last edited by therinwhitten on Fri May 20, 2011 9:10 am; edited 1 time in total
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Grenadiers  



Joined: 20 Feb 2007
Posts: 3222
Location: Nelson, WI & Prescott, AZ

PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2011 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

First of all, I doubt a Porsche dealer anywhere would have a clue on rewiring your car! 924 What?

Second, have you taken a multimeter to the battery posts while car is running? Maybe alt is actually charging the battery.
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staticsan  



Joined: 19 Jan 2009
Posts: 450
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2011 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you only need to repair small bits, then let me assure you that this is indeed a much less daunting task than completely rewiring. The Haynes book gives a near-enough complete wiring diagram that you can farily easily figure out the oddities. And Porsche made it fairly sensible and with lots of plugs so replacing small parts isn't a huge job.

About the battery warning light: as I posted the other day, it is perhaps the oddest piece of circuit in a car, yet that's why it works. It connects the battery's positive (through the ignition switch) to the alternator's charge output, also positive. It works because when one or the other fails, you have a potential difference aka voltage and the light goes on, but in normal operation, there is no potential difference and so it goes out.

It is conceivable that a backyard re-wirer might not have understood this and removed or mis-connected one end. Again, the Haynes book will show exactly where the wires are supposed to go, even their original colours.

Wade.
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therinwhitten  



Joined: 11 Feb 2011
Posts: 15
Location: Sweet Home, OR

PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2011 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The age of the harness is what I am worried about. And yes, voltmeter showed fail at 12 volts while the car was running. <.<. Then again....

After tommorow I will post some pics. It seems like its charging now but the lights no longer pop up? WTH? I think the fusebox is part of the big issue, but as I can see by having my head up in there. Washer/Wiper wiring is fried. As a Precaution I disconnected the whole windshield washer set up to ensure voltage doesn't arc and burn other wires.

I know what I need to do. However....It is freaking daunting.

At the minimum, I would need to pull the dash, pull out the fuse box and recondition that, check all wires and if they show cracking/corrosion replace and label them. Then put everything back together and retest to see if what I did worked.

I want a more permanent solution to a temp problem. I want to ensure I fixed the issues prior so I can say for sure that its taken care of. That way I can isolate the issue.

I think i am venting on here more than asking advice.

The Voltage light has NEVER worked even though I tested it on a AAA battery. Light is good lol. I turn the ignition on, no light. I Start the car, no light. I didn't even KNOW the light was integral in the circuit until I was using the search engine to find a possible problem with the exciter wire.

The blue wire at the three prong connector just below the battery. The exciter wire is blue and well, looks like toast tbh. The sheath is clearly heat damaged. That wire goes to the back of the fuse box then to the voltage light correct?

If anyone is free I can supply some beer lol.
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homey  



Joined: 31 Jan 2009
Posts: 31
Location: Lynchburg VA

PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2011 12:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a similar problem and the fix was to replace the diode / regulator / brush assy in the alternator. The light would not come on with the key on and charging was flaky. Then one day stopped charging completely. replaced the regulator (part of the alternator ) and now light works properly and charges properly. Just to satisfy myself I installed a voltmeter in the dash from Advance Auto.. less than $20. It shows 12v with key on and 13+ running..
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therinwhitten  



Joined: 11 Feb 2011
Posts: 15
Location: Sweet Home, OR

PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so far:
Rewired the D+ wire from the egr mileage, all the way to the light in the dash and to the fusebox. It was all burned out. I also had to replace some wiring that was damaged from the burned wire. In the process. I made a new wire from the D+ side of the alternator that goes through the engine harness into the fusebox.
1: At the fusebox, where the wire attaches to the female pin. I can't get it out. I don't want to force it cause I will have to reuse the pin.
2: Considering the burn marks on the fusebox, I am starting to feel like the wiring paths INSIDE the fusebox maybe the reason that my headlights and turn signals do not work. This is IMO possible because of the excitor wires condition when i pulled it out. It was so hot that it melted the 7 pin connector behind the vdo.

What do you guys think. Should I get a new/used fusebox?
Hazard light works on all the lights and flickers. However, the turn signals do not. The indicator goes solid green and stays on.

Also, only driver side light works on low beam, and the passenger side works on high beam. IN the middle of switching it from hi to low both lights are on.
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1976 Late year: Porsche 924; 4 SPD Manual, Blue.
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therinwhitten  



Joined: 11 Feb 2011
Posts: 15
Location: Sweet Home, OR

PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just hooked up all the grounds ect before I put on the dash to test things out....

LOL the bat light works now. However, it comes on BEFORE I even put the key in the ignition. Which is terribly odd. Then, when I turn the key to the ON position, the light goes off before I even turn crank the car.Oil pressure light doesn't come on now... Does that mean its on a 30 connection. Here is my understanding of whats going on.

From alternator to fusebox is C2 Connection. Then the circuit (if I read right), comes out of D2 Blue wire and connects to the EGR Mileage. From there it goes to the bat light on the dash. At the EGR circle connection. The EGR wire is also attached to that plus a ground. That EGR wire goes directly to the EGR light in the Dash.

I also have another question. The red wires from the top relays....none of the H connections have numbers. And Neither does wiring diagrams....Does that mean the wires that go to H don't have to be on a specific pole? They are all connected? And G is numbered.
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1976 Late year: Porsche 924; 4 SPD Manual, Blue.
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therinwhitten  



Joined: 11 Feb 2011
Posts: 15
Location: Sweet Home, OR

PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2011 5:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I figured it out. I had two wires on the G part of the fuse box in different places. Got it fixed. Now all the lights work as intended. I did not have to change the harness as tons of the harness was in very good condition. Just the wiring connections were worn. I would strip the wire and it looks very good.

The fuel pump is having issues still erratically coming on and off. I will troubleshoot the fuel pump however beens I know the wiring to it is sound from the fuse box. I can now safely check the wiring to the fuel pump and the pump itself. It comes off and on erratically making me think its going bad. I already ordered a new one.

Both lowbeams are working now. Which is way better than before. I also think this has to do with the light switch. However, I will inspect the wiring to each headlight in the engine compartment to ensure tight fit.

Finally, the turn signals are still not working....Hazard flashes. Turn signals just stay solid. I have realized its either a ground on the steering column or bad light grounds.

I know I talk alot. Just I learn things by understanding how it works. Its how I think. I appreciate any advice to see if I am going in the right direction.
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