 |
924Board.org Discussion Forum of 924.org
|
| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
Martijnus

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 Posts: 2019 Location: Netherlands
|
Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 2:55 am Post subject: 944 upgrade questions |
|
|
Ok, so I've got the 5 lug setup on my car, which is great.
When I installed that stuff in the rear, I had some troubles adjusting the parking brake shoes and my Haynes manual ofcourse doesn't cover vented brake setups.
Question 1: How do I properly adjust the parking brakes?
My brakes tend to feel wobbly a bit when I gently brake. Feels like warped disks, but that isn't the case.
It appears my rear wheel bearings have too much play.
I replaced those about 7 months ago and have driven less than 10.000km.
When I replaced these, I found out that one of the bearings didn't fit tight in the suspension arm. I used the proper loctite to glue it in, but this isn't a real solution.
I roll on 6J (iirc) phonedials, with the proper spacers in the rear. ET stuff should be fine because of that.
Question 2: Any idea how my bearings have worn so fast?
So I decided to scavenge a complete rear suspension setup, to rebuild it (bearings, bushings etc etc) so the bearings will fit properly again without the need of loctite stuff.
I came across a unit, complete with brakes, from a 944. It's pricy, but I hope I can arrange something with that dude, since I've bought an engine from him last week.
Question 3: Will a 944 (early? no aluminium arms) directly fit my 924 and what problems will I encounter?
I've got something in my mind which tells me the arms are further apart on a 944, which means I should get 944 axles/drive shafts?
Hope you guys can help me out a bit on this... it'll be another expensive project. One reason to go for 944 rear stuff is that íf it's wider, it could look a bit more awesome since I'll be putting on some Dprod arches.
Still, I'd be glad to use a 924 setup with just some wider rims (given that the ET values still correspond) _________________ "Rule: Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun." (C. Bell)
924 "50-jahre", 1981.
MSII/extra, LPG, ITB's, 5lug.
To be turbo'ed in a while.
Killed her at the Nurburgring, Porscheless at the moment |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
gohim
Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 4459 Location: Rialto, CA
|
Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 4:16 am Post subject: |
|
|
Early (steel) trailing arm 944 use the same parts as a 924, so there's no problem swapping the parts into your 924.
Rear track is the same since the parts in the rear are the same with wider rear wheels of the 944 being the difference.
Your rear wheel bearings may have worn quickly because they were not secured properly in the bearing housings and the wobbling accellerated the wear.
The parking brake shoes are adjusted the same way as any brake shoes. Parking brake cables are adjusted after the shoes are adjusted.
Locktite WAS NEVER THE CORRECT WAY TO CORRECT LOOSENESS WHEN THE REAR WHEEL BEARINGS WERE installed. Locktite is not a gap filling soution. When you found the loose wheel bearings, you should have checked the OD of the wheel bearings to make sure that they were not undersized, then replaced the trailing arms if the bearings were within specification, because that would indicate that the bearing housings in the trailing arms were stretched out. And the trailing arms should have been replaced at that point. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Martijnus

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 Posts: 2019 Location: Netherlands
|
Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 9:48 am Post subject: |
|
|
| gohim wrote: | Early (steel) trailing arm 944 use the same parts as a 924, so there's no problem swapping the parts into your 924.
Rear track is the same since the parts in the rear are the same with wider rear wheels of the 944 being the difference.
|
Nice! that means I can just get any unit, 924 or 944... except for the brakes/hubs which are different.
| Quote: |
Your rear wheel bearings may have worn quickly because they were not secured properly in the bearing housings and the wobbling accellerated the wear.
|
I'm pretty sure the bearings are (still) secured properly. And since it was only one side which was 'loose', it doesn't explain why the 'good' side has play too. I think if I'll get the whole stuff apart again, the bearing is still very tight in the trailing arm. That loctite is sick stuff.
That's why I think the play is in the bearing itself, and not in the connection between bearing and trailing arm (again, it could only explain one side, not the other).
| Quote: |
The parking brake shoes are adjusted the same way as any brake shoes. Parking brake cables are adjusted after the shoes are adjusted.
|
How do I adjust those then? Just as the regular 924 shoes? In that case, haynes could be adequate. I'll check that section tomorrow
The previous time I just adjusted the stuff until I thought it was the same on both sides, keep checking it with the disks on. Pretty time consuming, so in my eyes not the perfect way to do it.
| Quote: |
Locktite WAS NEVER THE CORRECT WAY TO CORRECT LOOSENESS WHEN THE REAR WHEEL BEARINGS WERE installed. Locktite is not a gap filling soution. When you found the loose wheel bearings, you should have checked the OD of the wheel bearings to make sure that they were not undersized, then replaced the trailing arms if the bearings were within specification, because that would indicate that the bearing housings in the trailing arms were stretched out. And the trailing arms should have been replaced at that point. |
I totally agree, but I couldn't replace the trailing arms at that moment. That loctite can fix a gap up to 0.5 mm or something like that, I guess I had only 0.01mm clearance between both. I'm also pretty sure the bearings were good. It was SKF stuff, and it fitted right on the left side. Also, the old bearing came out easily and the new bearing went in (too) easily... trailing arm is to blame for sure.
That's the whole reason I want to replace the whole stuff.
I guess the best way to go is buying a 924 suspension, replace all rubber bushings with PU ones, clean the whole stuff and preserve it (i'm thinking of galvanizing the whole stuff ) and when the time's there, replace the whole unit with trailing arms, rebuild my current calipers and we're good to go. Saves me a lot of money if I go for a 924 unit instead of a 944 unit, especially when I don't need the brake stuff. _________________ "Rule: Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun." (C. Bell)
924 "50-jahre", 1981.
MSII/extra, LPG, ITB's, 5lug.
To be turbo'ed in a while.
Killed her at the Nurburgring, Porscheless at the moment |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Martijnus

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 Posts: 2019 Location: Netherlands
|
Posted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 2:43 am Post subject: |
|
|
time to kick this thread.
Let's say I should buy a 24 which has been converted to a 944 bodywise.
How do I fill the void in the arches? In the rear it should be enough to get 44 wheels... but in the front? Do I need 944 suspension bits (given that I'm using my current parts, so the front has the complete 944 spindles) _________________ "Rule: Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun." (C. Bell)
924 "50-jahre", 1981.
MSII/extra, LPG, ITB's, 5lug.
To be turbo'ed in a while.
Killed her at the Nurburgring, Porscheless at the moment |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
BionicBalls

Joined: 05 Jan 2009 Posts: 642 Location: Charlotte, NC
|
Posted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 11:41 am Post subject: |
|
|
I just got done converting to 944 running gear so this is all fresh in my mind.
I dropped the entire rear assembly as one unit. It is the same width as the 924. The 44 has a rear sway bar.
In the front: my 24 had the sway bar attached using drop links at the control arms. The 44 uses drop linkage in the middle of the sway bar and attaches directly to the 44 control arm.
I switched over to the 44 control arms and sway bar. I welded the 944 drop linkage to my frame. There was a marker hole on my frame in the exact location that the bolt holes would be on a 944 so that made things easy.
The 44's sway bar was 2-3 mm bigger than my 24's.
As far as the shoes go, take the rotor off and you can now see the brake shoes. at the top middle is the adjuster. You need two flat head screw drivers. Use one to pry the spring down which allows the adjuster to turn. Use the other screw driver to turn the adjuster out. Put the rotor back up and turn it a bit. The top of the shoes should just barely scrape the inside of the rotor. Trial and error until you get it right. You can then adjust the cable inside the cabin using a 14mm and a 10mm wrench. _________________ 1980 924 NA
1982 931 |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Rasta Monsta

Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11733 Location: PacNW
|
Posted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 11:43 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Martijnus wrote: | | How do I fill the void in the arches? |
"Early offset" wheels. . .23.3 ET from a 911 or 944. Can you say "Fuchs?" _________________ Toofah King Bad
- WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group
|