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931 in Vancouver, Canada

 
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richierich  



Joined: 05 May 2007
Posts: 48
Location: Vancouver

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 3:46 pm    Post subject: 931 in Vancouver, Canada Reply with quote

It seems as if an 81 924 Turbo that has been discussed on this board is still for sale. See it here on Craigslist: http://vancouver.craigslist.org/car/307503477.html

I drove the car on Sunday and was impressed. It was better than my expectations in many regards: Interior was OK, All switches and gauges seemed to work, body and paint was very good (no rust, prolly repainted), steering & brakes felt tight, motor seemed strong and shifter was solid.

On the minus side, the clutch seemed to be going (clutch action happened all in the last 2 inches of travel) and the tires were all mismatched. Also, the owner has few service records so I don't know if the timing belt has been done or really any other major work. What were your impressions of the car when other member saw it?

I want to get a pre-purchase inspection done. Stuart from Weissach recommended "Targa performance" on the North Shore of Vancouver. Any advice for me? I was going to ask for the standard pre-purchase inspection with a compression test. I want them to look carefully at the cooling system, steering/suspension, brakes and tranny.

I'm not scared of 80s german autos, I did have an 86 M5 Eurospec that cost me an arm and leg to keep on the road. I do want to go in with open eyes though. Any help fellow members can provide is welcomed, Kenodog has already been helpful.

I think this is another discusstion fromt he past where this car was mentioned. The current owner tells me the car was a non-starter when he got it but that a new Alternator, stater and battery solved the problem. http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=21010
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RichieRich
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
Posts: 3903
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 11:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

$3900 is steep. Maybe Lizard could go take a look at it with you when he is back in the city (sometime in mid May I think). The car seems to have been for sale forever, so it probably isn't going to sell quickly.
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richierich  



Joined: 05 May 2007
Posts: 48
Location: Vancouver

PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2007 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice from Edmunchuck. Do appreciate it. The pre-sale inspection is scheduled at Targa so we'll see what it says. I will go in lower than the money he's asking because frankly I can't imagine that crowds are beating down his door for a 26 year old turbo car. I like the car but won't be heartbroken if it doesn't work out.

I'll keep you all in the loop. Still, any advice is welcome: what should I be watching out for on the inspection? IE: if the cooling system is bad, run like hell. Or, if the turbo is shot you'll never be able to replace it. Or whatever you might tell me.
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RichieRich
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
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Location: Canada

PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2007 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No problem.

I don't have a turbo, so my knowledge of the Turbo system is limited. From what I understand, the 931 turbos can still be rebuilt.

Look for rust under the battery, the battery tray is prone to rust. Make sure the transmission is in good shape, the dogleg box on the 931 is more costly to rebuild than the Audi unit on the 924. Parts for the dogleg box are also getting difficult to source I think, some of the 931 guys have been talking about it here for a while. Timing belt is simple to change, but on the 931 the engine is interference so if you buy it change the belt and tensioner before driving it (if it snaps, valves hit pistons). The rubber on a poorly maintained 924/931 will be in poor shape, squeze the coolant and vacuum hoses with your hands and look for cracking in the rubber. Check the rubber fuel hoses in the engine bay (one to filter, one from filter to distributor, injector lines, and fuel return line) to see if they are seeping or swollen with fuel from age. Check behind the passenger side rear tire for the rubber hoses running into and out of the bottom of the fuel tank, make sure they aren't seeping or swollen. Same area, follow the hose from the fuel pump up to a small cylinder mounted high (fuel accumulator), unscrew the small screw on the bottom of the accumulator, if gas comes out the accumulator is shot. Check for fuel fumes coming from the area of the fuel filler hoses in the hatch of the car. Check the storage bins in the hatch behind the wheels for rust or signs of standing water. Feel the front passenger side carpet in the footwell for damp, if the sunroof drain hoses are plugged, water can end up here.

I could go on and on. PM me and I can give you a number if you want to call and discuss.
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richierich  



Joined: 05 May 2007
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Location: Vancouver

PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

More great advice, thanks! I did (briefly) many of the things you recommend on my first look: squeezed all accessible hoses and clamps and found nice pliable rubber. I remember the hoses on my M5 were petrified. I noticed all serpentine belts appeared new which would jive with his new alternator/starter/battery experience.

I checked around/under the battery tray and no rush. I pulled the carpet in the hatch which is nearly destroyed and the current owner admitted to hatch water leak. The wells on either side looked good though, no rust or signs of repeated dampness.

The pre-purchase inspection will happen this Friday so I'll know much more after that...
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RichieRich
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Lizard  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
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Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada

PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I honestly would not bother with the hundred or so dollars for a PPI, however it is your money.

I will be flying back into town on May 20th fairly late at night.

The main things to check, just do a visual inspection of the timing belt, if it isnt covered in cracks you should be reasonably safe to drive it.

The main things to look at on the car is to do a compression, and leakdown test (make sure the shop if you go does this) this will tell you if the engine has broken rings. as well hose down the battery tray compartment and let the hose sit there for 5 min, if you get no water in the interior you are safe. I wouldnt worry too much about the hoses, though you will probably want to replace a few of them within the next while, the cooling systems arent a huge issue, you should drain the coolant and see if there are any pebbles from rad stop or anything like that.

keep in mind that once you buy the car you will probably in the near future need to rebuild the turbo, as well as replace the fuel pump and clean some ground locations.

if you wish to hold off for another week and abit I can come by and see the car, however you will need to go to the shop still to have a compression and leakdown test.
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richierich  



Joined: 05 May 2007
Posts: 48
Location: Vancouver

PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Lizard. The compression test will be done on Friday. I'll let you know how it goes. I would definately like to meet up after if I get the car.
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RichieRich
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richierich  



Joined: 05 May 2007
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Location: Vancouver

PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2007 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay board, chime in if you have an opinion. Targa Performance finished the pre-purch inspection today and here's the results.

Actually, I'll only mention the "Poor" every thing else was fair or good. Poor = crankshaft seal & flywheel seal; Brake Fluid; Tires. Other notes: Compression all strong. Turbo strong but leaking oil. Return line to oil pan leaking. Connections from Oil filter housing to oil cooler leaking. CV slight play. That's it.

I will be making an offer this evening. I'll keep everyone in the loop.
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RichieRich
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
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Location: Canada

PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2007 12:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

richierich wrote:
Poor = crankshaft seal & flywheel seal;


Front crankshaft seal can actually be changed with the engine in the car. Not unusual for either of these seals to leak with age, so not too big a deal, nothing that would cause an engine failure like the RMS issues on the 986/996, that's for sure!

richierich wrote:
Brake Fluid; Tires.


No surprise there, nobody like changing brake fluid, every used car I have bought I have put new tires on immediately.

richierich wrote:
Turbo strong but leaking oil. Return line to oil pan leaking. Connections from Oil filter housing to oil cooler leaking.


Someone with 931 specific knowledge could give more info here, I'm not sure how serious any of this is.

richierich wrote:
CV slight play.


I thought slight horizontal CV play was evident in most 924's.
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Lizard  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2007 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the lower oil hose you can have rebuilt at a few local hydraulic places I can point you to.

the turbo will need to be rebuilt as it will have some coking and the seals will be cooked again I can tell you a place that will do that.

the rest of it is no big deal at all, but check that battery tray with alot of water before purchase.
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timstar92404  



Joined: 22 Sep 2004
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Location: richmond BC

PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2007 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd also check to see if the hatch is separating badly, glass from the frame, it's expensive to fix / replace.

Pretty much guarranteed that there will be some water leaks in the car and you'll need to replace some seals which are kind of expensive. rear hatch can leak, sunroof leaks, quarter window leaks, and the battery tray.

All the 924s/ 944s I've seen had wet rear seat from water leaks. The 944 I bought was in May last year so it was dry inside but now I now it has water leaks (found out it was my quarter window).

fixing water leaks isn't expensive but if you don't have a garage or cover in fall / winter you might find out that the car turns into a swimming pool with an inch of water in the car / mouldy interior.


The battery tray is cheap to fix unless it's completely rusted out which is unlkely. Both my 924 /944 had leaking battery trays so I just scraped all the old rubber coating off, sanded it to metal /just poke and cut out the small rusty parts and fill it up with some epoxy and paint it with some rust proof paint (I used por15).

I've seen that 924 on craiglist for a long time now so I bet the seller will go down to 3000.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2007 2:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chrenan wrote:
I thought slight horizontal CV play was evident in most 924's.


Any CV joint will have a ton of axial play. . .its part of the design. Rotational play, however, means to toss them before they break (ask me how I know that).

rasta
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richierich  



Joined: 05 May 2007
Posts: 48
Location: Vancouver

PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2007 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, I got the car. Picking it up tomorrow or Tuesday. I'll be starting on all the little things once I've had a chance to go over it and make a list. Kenodog has already offered some help in person and all the advice on the board has been great. Do you guys ever get together in the Vancouver area to wrench? I'd love to have some help in person.

Thanks again,
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RichieRich
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2007 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're stoked. 931s kick ass.


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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
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Location: Canada

PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2007 5:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Me, Min and Rasta may be getting together in Fernie for a meetup, any interest in joining?

http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=22144
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