924Board.org

[-nick]

Hey folks,
I need to replace the pivot bushing that pops onto the back of the torque tube. While the engine is out, I'm wondering if the shift rods can be pulled out and into the engine bay? Anyone ever try it this way?

If I can get the rods out, then screwing the new pivot will be easy. I figure that I can use a hose clamp around the torque tube and rod and pull the rod down until the bushing pops onto the torque tube. This is granting that the rods can come out the front to begin with? I'm sure that the foam on top of the TT will be a pain, but otherwise, it seems like there should be enough room.

[Lizard]

if you have the engine out then it wont be an issue, remove the bellhousing if ou left it on the torqu tube and you should be able to lower the TT enough to be able to get the foam out of the way and drag them forward, I have done the hose clamp way may times and it works great,

however may I recommend a better fix.

remove the TT entirely and then cut the ball off of it, then remove the ball joint from the shift lever and instead install a heim joint like this and then weld a bolt of the appropriate size onto the TT and hold down with a nut or drill a hole and tap it then thread a bolt in to hold in place,

if you do the latter you will NEVER have to worry about it again.

and for the tranny shifter bushings make some bushings out of either brass or aluminum and again you will never need to go in there again and will always have the tightest shifts.
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3 928s,

[Joes924Racer]

Lizard has a good idea ..I made a hole under
the rear seatto get to it.

you probly
dont want to do that.. I followed vaughn... How
long do the hard rubber bushings last anyway?
_________________
1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo.

[porsche.racer]

I also am having the same problem with my shift linkage and am also lloking at replacing the entire set up to a similar idea. As a quick fix, and to be able to quick fix at the track, I cut a hole dierctly above the shift linkage with a 4 or 5 inck hole saw for access any time. After no success with inventing a rubber groment or bushing I (in desperation) wrapped the ball with electrical tape until the desiered thickness was achieved, pressed the cup down on the ball and zip tied it around the torque tube. This solution although it worked for an autocross event, will not last forever. So, I guess that leads me to the top, and replacing the whole cup and ball set up.
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1987 911 3.6L Carrera with LSD
1986 944 Turbo (Track)
1972 911 3.0L Turbo Look
1988 944
100's of good used parts MUST GO

Check me out on EBAY I.D. porsche.racer

[Lizard]

I would definetly recommend that you follow the same instructions for your race car, esp on a race car, where you want the tightest shifter you can get.
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3 928s,

[-nick]

I'll confirm - it was relatively easy pulling the rod out from the front. With the engine out, the steps are pretty easy -

- make sure the engine bellhousing is off
- remove the shifter boots
- remove the center console
- remove the two 10mm bolts holding the pivot rod rubber guide/mount
- remove the shifter - pay attention to it's orientation, the short ends of the rod pivot holes face the driver side
- push the pivot rod through the foam and out of the engine compartment

When replacing, I smeared some lithium grease on the pivot bushing (and anything else that moved) and used a hose clamp around the pivot rod and torque tube to pop the bushing onto the torque tube nipple.

The great lever is nice and tight now

[Lizard]

good to hear, now when it dies again remember how to fix it perminantly.
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3 928s,

[macBdog]

Don't worry Lizard, I will be following your spherical bearing advise, looks great
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1979 931 with a 350 chev
1973 911E with EFI