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sudden loss of power

 
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oprj45  



Joined: 19 Jul 2005
Posts: 23
Location: San Francisco, CA

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2006 6:50 pm    Post subject: sudden loss of power Reply with quote

has any one had this problem: recently while driving i'll suddenly lose power on the throttle; i give it gas but the tac drops and the car slows. electrical power is fine because the lights/radio are still on. while still driving i can turn the ignition and she starts right up no problem, and i go about my way. it's becoming more frequent and happened twice on my last trip, and three times the trip before!

any ideas?

i also think i have the classic hot-start problem. she starts fine cold, but if i drive it any good distance, then let it sit (say to run into the store..etc..) and then start it up again, it pretty much always takes 4-6 turns to turn over.. hot-start problem?

i know i need to replace all my hoses and o-rings.. just trying to figure out how much that'll cost. and i'm sure i could use a new distributor cap and probably plugs.. no?

thanks for any insight!
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timstar92404  



Joined: 22 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2006 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah that's a hot start problem if you want to fix it properly I've been told by lots of people that it's most likley the fuel pump check valve which results in fuel pressure dropping after shutdown.
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gohim  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2006 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like the breakerless sensor module inside of the distributor is getting ready to check out on you.

This is a common problem on 81 and later cars with 100K miles or more on them. Other makes of cars use a similar Bosch designed and supplied module inside of the distributor, and they all crap out about the same number of miles.

It may be cheaper to buy a rebuilt distributor, than buying the module, and saving a machine shop disassemble the distributor and replace the module. When the one in my 81 924 died, I removed the distributor and had a local Bosch Authorized Service Center, disassemble it, replace the module, and test the completed distributor. Only the module itself was dead.
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Chaos  



Joined: 07 Nov 2005
Posts: 289
Location: Newark, DE, US

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2006 11:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i'm actually having the same problem with mine (sudden power loss with dropping RPM). it's very very intermittent for me. i'd say it only happens on every 3rd or 4th trip i make, on average, although it's not that regular. it's weird.. sometimes it'll happen once, and other times, it will keep happening. i should look into a rebuilt dizzy myself.
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oprj45  



Joined: 19 Jul 2005
Posts: 23
Location: San Francisco, CA

PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gohim wrote:
Sounds like the breakerless sensor module inside of the distributor is getting ready to check out on you.

It may be cheaper to buy a rebuilt distributor, than buying the module, and saving a machine shop disassemble the distributor and replace the module. When the one in my 81 924 died... Only the module itself was dead.


okay can i ask a super basic question: when you say the "distributor" you mean the distributor cap? or is there more to it than that? seems like that should be pretty simple/affordable to replace, no? or maybe not..


btw.. after going back over the FAQ i'm 100% positive i have the hot-start problem. I told my mechanic i wanted to replace all my hoses and he said "whoa that's expesive.." .. and i imagine replacing the fuel pump isn't very cheap either.. trying to learn how to do this myself.. i can't afford the labor cost

thanks again!
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oprj45  



Joined: 19 Jul 2005
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Location: San Francisco, CA

PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

timstar92404 wrote:
yeah that's a hot start problem if you want to fix it properly I've been told by lots of people that it's most likley the fuel pump check valve which results in fuel pressure dropping after shutdown.


ok.. a little confussed.. in the Tech Section FAQ (http://www.924.org/techsection/3fuel.htm#2 - hot start problem) it says: If you are experiencing hot-start problems... then check the injectors and fuel accumulators.

ok.. but then right under that in the "Hot Start Problem Fix", in the first paragraph he says "The hot start problem .. is not due to the fuel pump, or the fuel accumulator, as many people believe." (http://www.924.org/techsection/hot_start_problem_fix.htm)

so who's right?

has anyone sucessfully solved this problem? My injectors should still be pretty new (at least according to the receipts I got from previous owner).. should i just get a new fuel pump?

sorry for all the questions.. it's obviously frustrating when your car won't start, especially since i take long road trips.. and it's still winter over here ..brrrrrrr....
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

"distributor" = the whole thing that bolts into the head, not just the cap. The distributor is press-fit together, so requires some light machine shop work to disassemble, replace the module, and reassemble.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The problem, when you have the hot start problem, is that the lines between fuel pump, fuel distributor, and injectors (incl cold start valve) lose pressure. What keeps pressure in the system are - the fuel pump check valve, the pressure regulator inside the fuel distributor, the injectors, cold start valve and the fuel accumulator - the accumulator keeps approx. 40cc of fuel in a bladder under spring pressure. You could have a leak at any one of these points causing pressure to drop, then heat from the engine, mainly affecting the lines to the injectors, causes vapor lock. The problem wouldn't be with the fuel pump. If it's an intermittant and not too serious problem, the car should start while hot just by holding the throttle to the floor while starting - this helps to clear the vapor lock quicker. The "hot start fix" uses a switch wired to the cold start valve - this has the same affect of clearing the vapor lock by moving more fuel through the lines as well as by spraying more fuel into the intake. -But the real problem is a leak somewhere. You have the options of finding and fixing the leak, holding the pedal down while starting, or doing the hot start fix with the added switch.
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
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Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

From feedback I have received the most common fault is the check valve on the fuel pump.
The check valve is a replaceable unit and cheap compared to the pump.
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oprj45  



Joined: 19 Jul 2005
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Location: San Francisco, CA

PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoothie wrote:
If it's an intermittant and not too serious problem, the car should start while hot just by holding the throttle to the floor while starting - this helps to clear the vapor lock quicker. .


I had actually been reluctant to do this too much for fear of flooding the engin.. but after searching around, I see that you've mentioned that often so I tried it and sure enough, it starts usually on the 2nd turn, which is much better than 6 or 7!

So now that it's payday and a nice weekend, I'm going to try to fix the check valve .. pretty straight forward, no? anything i should prepare for besides the obvious?

I'm going off of this: http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=6123&start=16 -- btw, pretty smooth, Smoothie!
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oprj45 wrote:
I had actually been reluctant to do this too much for fear of flooding the engin..
Pumping the pedal could cause it to flood. Pumping causes the air metering plate to overswing each time the pedal's pumped - this is CIS's equivalent to the the extra shot of fuel you'd get from a carbureted engine (a pump mechanism built into carburetors gives an extra shot of fuel on acceleration).
Just pressing the pedal down once and holding it there, doesn't continue enrichening the mixture the way pumping would.
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pc_evans10  



Joined: 22 Jan 2006
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Location: Catterick, North Yorkshire, UK

PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 4:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My UK 924 has just recovered from EXACTLY the same problem you're describing (well fingers crossed - managed a 600mile round trip this weekend with no probs whatsoever).

Having posted my dilema on this forum a month or so ago, the general concensus seemed to be to try replacing the Ignition Control Unit (little grey box bolted inside the the engine bay by the leftr headlight). Loacl porsche garage quoted me hundreds (literally) of pounds for a replacement, so went onto eBay and found one instantly for £24.99!

And all I can say is that since fitting this box she seems to be behaving like a normal car again
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oprj45  



Joined: 19 Jul 2005
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Location: San Francisco, CA

PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, first, so sorry for a late follow-up (for anyone who was following this.)

Here’s what the actual problem turned out to be! The wire to my external fuel pump was loose, essentially cutting power every time it would wiggle free. (side note: this most likely created a spark that, had there been a fuel leak in the area, I probably would have had a nice explosion on my hands.)

Upon further investigation into the fuel pump itself; it was determined (based on the age of the pump and the excessively loud noise it was making), that the pump was ready to fail. So I replaced it (not cheap!) Since then, I’ve actually had a significant increase in performance and reliability. It used to feel like it would “sputter” if I gave it too much gas. Now it flies, and boy does it feel great!

However, I still have the hot-start issue, so the “check valve” fix is not the case here, since I have a new fuel pump and check valve. Since I haven’t replace the hoses/o-rings/etc, I’m not surprised. Holding the pedal down, as suggest by Smoothie, works great and usually starts by
the 3rd turn. In fact when it does start, it starts with a punch! Hence the freeing of the Vapor Lock.


Thanks again for all your insight/suggestions!
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