924Board.org

[Blue]

Hello,

i'm new here and did some searching, however, since i want to be sure i'll ask this again, specially for my car, since in most posts they either don't mention the exact car or type of brake system

so please can you guys assist me?


i bought a 924S from 1986 as a trackday car...



the stnd brakes are gone after one day of racing (they weren't in a good state to begin with)


what should i do?


1) AP racing brakes and Pagid Pads
2) Movit disks and Pagid Pads
3) 944 stock brakes and Pagid Pads
4) just buy new 924S dics and Pagid Pads



2nd question is the suspension

1) Koni's
2) original Porsche sportgewindefahrwerk suspension





on both question, can you please tell me what i should look out for when ordering the parts


a big thanks!!!!!
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If you don't succeed at first, skydiving is not for you

[Blue]

ohh and i also want to swap the Speedo and the Rev counter between each other so the rev counter is right in the center

that way i can look at it while on the track

since i got an extended steering hub from omp on it and a steering wheel from OMP and that blocks the view on my revcounter abit


is this possible???
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If you don't succeed at first, skydiving is not for you

[gohim]

The Porsche Sport Group Shocks are Konis, so either either option you listed, you would still be buying Konis. The difference would be the Posrche version does not vcome with the Lifetime Warranty that the Koni branded parts come with.

If money is no object, I would go with Bilsteins, not the Konis. If you decide to go with Konis, buy the "Yellow" Sport Shocks, the Standard "Red" Shocks are too soft.

New brake rotors only have 1.5mm-2.0mm of acceptable wear thickness to begin with.

Most people have good luck with Repco Deluxe (know as "White") pads. These are non-metallic pads with very good wear and performance characteristics on the track.

Again, if money is no object (and additional braking is desired), try installing a set of drilled rotors. Look for a set of drilled rotors that were manutactured with the holes "cast-in" rather than drilled after the rotors were finished. The rotors with the "cast-in" holes appear to last longer, before they crack, then those that are drilled later.

If you can't afford drilled rotors, I would go for a set of new replacement rotors from a German of British manufacturer (branded by Porsche, ATE, Girling, etc).

If you are new to 944 engined cars, incase you are not aware, the health of the timing and balance shaft belts arew critical to the life of the engine. The belts must be replaced every 3 years or 30K miles, because many fail before 40K miles. the 944/924S engine is an interference engine, and a broken belt causes thosands of dollars of damage to the cylinder head. While you are in there, it is best if you replace the front of engine oil seals, the water pump, and the pulleys and rollers that the belts ride on. I have no idea of what the labor cost is where you are, but the cost of these parts and the service to install runs around $1500-$2500 here in the US (depending on where you have the work done, and where you buy the parts).

[Porschephile]

also, if you are going to track the car, learn from MY mistakes, and not your own. DO NOT OVER-REVV THIS ENGINE!! the 944 2.5L engine is NOTORIOUS for spinning the #2 Connecting rod bearing. there are a couple of recommended fixes:
1. Cross-drilled crankshaft: this suggests that Porsche put the oiling holes in the wrong place. Harmonic imbalances or something like that causes the crank to run dry, and spin a bearing. this info can be found at www.huntleyracing.com
2. Accu-sump: This lil contraption pressurizes the oil system before hand, to keep the bearings wet. Donno much about it.

3. Baffles in the oil pan: Porsche installed this around '88 or so, in the 944. it keeps oil from flowing away from the pickup during high-speed cornering. No experience with that either...I think that can be done at Powerhaus performance...don't know

4. Adding extra oil: THIS DOES NOT WORK!!! I've done that each time I've been on the track, and out of 5 track days, I've had 2 spun bearings (I'm mad! can'tcha tell?)

It is recommended that Bearings are replaced by 100,000 miles or so by Pelican Parts. they have information on the procedure at their website. www.pelican-parts.com They, however don't offer much on prevention of the dreaded spun bearing.

Now, onto suspension. I have a 1987 924S, which I love (except for the damn engine). We've upgraded the suspension. It has 23mm front sway bars, from a 944 S2, or 951 (I can't remember which) a 19mm rear sway bar from the 968 M030 package, this is an adjustable sway with 3 settings. As for shocks, we have Koni's all the way around. they are NICE! it's great to crank em down, and play on the track. BUT, when you recieve your Koni strut inserts, do yourself a favor. ADJUST THEM BEFORE INSTALL! this makes sure that they are functional. we received 2 sets of dysfunctional front strut inserts from Koni before we got a working set. They were nice, and replaced them immediatly, but it's a real pain in the ass when you have to change the shocks 3 times in a month. (I suppose it's the same with engines too seems to be so far)

Along with the Koni's and the super-huge sways, we have 968 shock towers, which I think provide a lil more camber than the stock 924S towers. We also, have Weltmiester front springs, rated at 200# that lower the front about an inch. to keep the car looking German, and not like an old muscle car dragster with the ass-end in the air, we lowered the back of the car using the eccentric bolt on the trailing arms. it looks good. we could always go lower, but that would require screwing with the torsion bars, and that is something I don't wanna f*ck with...

Well, happy racing. email, or PM me if ya need any more info.
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werd B.

[Porschephile]

P.S. Looks pretty. is that black interior?
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werd B.

[Blue]

thanks guys,

i'l try to keep all your recommendation's in my solution's and i'll let you know what happened

suggestions are always welcome!!!


yep, black interiour with the porsche logo's written on the seats instead of the standard stripes....
_________________
If you don't succeed at first, skydiving is not for you

[Blue]

guys, when you talk about Koni's can you tell me wich model then?

Cause Koni Germany mailed me back with the message they don't produce anything for the 924S?
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If you don't succeed at first, skydiving is not for you

[Porschephile]

Alright. Ask em for Koni Yellow adjustable sport strut inserts for the 944. it's the same suspension.
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werd B.

[Lizard]

everyone seems to want to forget about the 924
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3 928s,

[Blue]

ok

Gert from http://www.carnewal-europe.com/ has found me the correct Yellow Koni's

but now the second problem

wich Springs????
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If you don't succeed at first, skydiving is not for you

[Porschephile]

I'd say go for some Weltmeister 200# or higher springs. these can be found at www.performanceproducts.com
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werd B.

[Porschephile]

http://www.performanceproducts.com/ProductPage.aspx?productname=Weltmeister+Performance+Heavy+Duty+Springs&productid=106765&producttype=20

There is the specific link. It's an American shop though. I don't know if you'd want to pay for shipping.
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werd B.

[1982Porsche924]

How do you have a US car in Belgium? did you import it?
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1979 Porsche 924 "S"
Engine: Euro pistons, Light Flywheel, Weber TB, Bursch Header, Cam Wheel
Suspension: Front coil-overs, adj sways, Solid bush. Thicker tors. bars, 5-bolt, BBS rims
Body: Fiberglass widebody kit, 931 Nose

[Porschephile]

[Blue]

why would i export a german car to the states to import it back again then???

Porsche is German so they also built that 924S here in Europe
This model was bought in Germany


thanks guys
_________________
If you don't succeed at first, skydiving is not for you