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mhariush
Joined: 28 Mar 2016 Posts: 19 Location: Los Angeles
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2025 4:26 am Post subject: Replace Oil Pump or Not? 1978 924 48k original Miles |
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I have a 48k mile original 78 and it is very original, still has original shocks, no aftermarket parts, glass strut had 1977 date sticker on it. Still has original stickers here and there that haven't fallen out over time and still has factory paint marks.
I have let it sit a long time with covid and work and I need to sort out some stuff on it. The timing belts must be a few decades old at this point.
The car was going up in temperature when running so I am also going to replace the water pump as I think it might be seized or at least time to do it.
It was also running very rough on start up, so rebuilding parts of the CIS, but that's for another thread.
I noticed there was a lot mess, what appears to be oil around the oil pump. But it looks like it's coming from the bolts?
Removing the oil pump is looking like a pretty big job as the oil pan and bell housing needs to come out.
Plus, that crankshaft bolt is really really stuck on there and the only way to get it off is either with a very powerful impact wrench (but how do I tighten it again?) or by installing the flywheel lock on the bellhousing side after removing the bell housing.
I have already removed the transmission as it was leaking a little at the rear plate and it has been slinging fluid all over the place back there.
Any expert thoughts here on what should be done? Should I bite the bullet and remove the bellhousing, clutch and oil pan?
This is the current state of the oil pump (notice the shine around the bolt)
I am also seeing some oil seepage at the front and rear camshaft
Rear
Or would it just be better to replace the water pump, clean up the engine bay, fix the CIS and rough running issue and see where and how the oil seepage happens over a little time?
Also, this is one of the coolant pipes, should I try to clean this? replace this? Assuming a lot of other pipes and crevasses inside the engine is like this after all these years...
Thanks! _________________ 78 924, 87 944S, 89 944 Turbo, 08 Cayenne |
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peterld
Joined: 10 Dec 2006 Posts: 978 Location: Noosa Heads QLD Australia
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2025 10:41 pm Post subject: |
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I doubt that oil is seeping through the oil pump bolts. That looks like a front crankshaft seal. Where is the main pulley? That's not a regular crankshaft pulley bolt. A heavy duty socket with an extended bar will break the bolt loose, however an impact wrench with appropriate socket is the ticket. Remove the starter motor to access the flywheel.
Some idiot PO has been at the rocker cover and the seals are mangled. New rocker cover seal set will cure that easily
Most neglected Toofahs will have pipes like that. The pipes are steel, and without regular antifreeze/inhibitor will rust quickly, resulting in rust holes. Check carefully, clean as best you can and run block cleaner for a few heat cycles before flushing well and adding antifreeze/inhibitor. Change coolant every few years to ensure top performance. _________________ 80/81 932/8 ROW |
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mhariush
Joined: 28 Mar 2016 Posts: 19 Location: Los Angeles
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2025 1:44 am Post subject: |
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I removed rhe pulley in preparation for a teardown, I was planning in doing the front seal and everything. But then encountered the dreaded crank bolt as turns out. I didnt know about how hard this was to remove on the 2.0 until I started reading out it. You say it doesn't look like a standard crank bolt, what do you mean?
I have partially pulled the starter but the heat shield is also a pain and from what I read there is no access or way to put a flywheel lock on that side anyway. In the workshop manuals the flyweel lock is said to be place on the bell housing side.
have you beer able to install a flyweel lock where the starter goes? _________________ 78 924, 87 944S, 89 944 Turbo, 08 Cayenne |
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924RACR

Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 8982 Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2025 9:08 pm Post subject: |
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That is absolutely a stock original crank pulley bolt IMO. 24mm socket.
Looks like you removed the 6 allen head bolts that hold the v belt part of the pulley; I usually leave those in place and remove the whole thing...
Once you remove the rad for cleaning, you should have room to get an impact in there. Torque spec is quite high, so yeah an impact is often needed. Electric impacts are great and cheap these days...
Agree with all the rest about cleaning and seals... _________________ Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
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Raize
Joined: 18 Sep 2013 Posts: 403 Location: Scotland
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Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2025 6:35 am Post subject: |
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| I would not bother with this, I would wait for something more serious to break that forces me to pull the engine and then do it. |
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