924Board.org

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Time for my shitbox to be all the same colour. While the panels are off is there anything with improved access that I could take care of?

Also did they invent a fastener material yet that doesn’t corrode or cause galvanic? Genuinely considering replacing some bolts with PEEK because they cause so many problems (Lower wing and valence screws) but it’s shockingly expensive.

If anyone has Respray and rust treatment tips then now is the time.

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https://imgur.com/a/nB2XFT6

Any thoughts?

Looks like the primer failed by stone chips in most cases and then just lifted. Epoxy primer with machinery enamel topcoat not up to the job.

Redress options are zinc primer, rust converter, or that POR-15 stuff.

This was all new metal 5 years ago, this is now the third time the 924 has rusted and the paint system used has not survived UK road conditions (which are extreme to say the least with grit blasting in summer from surface dressing then salt spray in winter).

[Beartooth]

Hmmm, that's a tough one because you probably can't just clean it up and cover it over, but it's hard to tell how many spots really need to be patched. Generally, my rule has been that if I lightly stab it with a screwdriver and it doesn't poke through, I can get away with some rust treatment (rust converter, POR-15; there are several brands that I think are pretty similar). Anywhere the metal is significantly pitted is compromised though. That spot where you can see a hole, I would cut out and weld in a new piece, for sure. And there are probably more spots that need patching.

The bigger the area you're having to replace, the more difficult it becomes (depending on expectations) unless you can find some replacement sheet metal - either off a donor, or maybe they make new pieces. For smaller areas, like the size of your palm or smaller, that are relatively flat, it's just fiddly business. I haven't done any bigger rust repairs, but the sense I get is that you don't absolutely need a bunch of fancy tools. They sure help though.

A MIG welder is highly recommended; that said, there are some pretty good epoxies that are another option. I haven't used them, but apparently it's becoming common on things like rocker panels to just cut the old ones out, leaving a little overlap, and then use the epoxy to glue the new one on. I think some people don't even form the metal around the seams - just glue it on and fill in the overlap.

Ultimately, a lot depends on how good you want it to look and how long it needs to last. You can get away with a lot for a little while. I had a friend who had a early Mustang "professionally" repaired and repainted. A few years down the road, and after he'd moved, it started to crack and bubble where the rust repair had been done, so he took it to another body shop to have it done right. They found cardboard from a pizza box as backer for a bunch of bondo'd-over areas that had rusted through... Just an example of a horrible bodge, but it didn't fall apart immediately. In the end, it's a lot of judgement calls. Probably the most important part is to strip away until all traces of rust are gone - there's probably a fair bit that's still hiding.
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1980 931 diamond in the rough

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https://imgur.com/a/m5345nh

The only two holed areas are on door jamb and, strangely, at the bottom-front corner of the quarter window.

Everything else is just surface rust due to failure of the paint system, I have stabbed it all with a screwdriver and it’s solid.

[safe]

My guess:
Its been repaired before and not treated properly on the inside.


and salty roads kill everything... I wouldn't drive my Porsches in the winter unless necessary and that I could wash it properly after the drive.
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/Magnus, Stockholm Sweden
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Porsche 924 -79 NA, EFI and Turbo.
Porsche 931 -79
Porsche 911 -77, 3.2 Targa
Porsche 911 -69, 3.6, Coupe

[Beartooth]

I had the same thought as safe: there's some pretty obvious repair work. I suspected you'd find worse the more you dug, but the second set of pictures don't look that bad. Still, my rule with repair work that's showing signs of distress is to dig it out completely and start fresh. I also agree on avoiding winter roads if you can. I've got a '94 Ford Explorer I'm fixing up for winter driving - having 4wd (without having to resort to my cold-blooded diesel truck) will be very nice, and having it as a sacrificial lamb to the road salt isn't as big a deal, given the availability of rust repair parts (both new and used). Then you have the threats of deer (big problem in my area) and bad drivers sliding into you. It's been a project though: I bought it from a salvage auction, and so far it's been more Exploder then Explorer. Both auto and manual transmissions tend to have issues, and mine (manual) ate the input shaft bearing so badly that it spun the race and damaged the case... But anyway, your 924 doesn't look terrible: a few spots will need new metal, but mostly I think you'll come out fine by removing or treating all traces of rusty metal before proceeding with priming, filling, and painting.
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1980 931 diamond in the rough

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