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931 custom in need of some love
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Mclaren924  



Joined: 13 Oct 2021
Posts: 253
Location: Oceanside CA

PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2025 5:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Getting some serious bad thoughts about fitting this front IC in a good way.

Other than a "few" spot welds and some fab time and obvious structural integrity, what's stopping me from gutting all skin under the nose panel to allow airflow through?

Of course there's a need to reinforce the upper rail that the nose panel mounts to which is not a concern. Also the air would have to be sealed into the compartment and shrouded into the radiator/condenser.

My thought is to run a deep, wide, but short IC in the front of rad/cond and then open up the nose panel to allow more air to flow into the top of the rad/cond while the IC sees the brunt of the cold air coming in from below.

Main concern is how the air is actually going to flow through the 931 front nose panel and if enough air will actually pass through to be used.

Dissenting opinions highly encouraged

Panel in question, just the middle piece, the top mount would stay most likely. Would have to seal up sides to shroud air soley into cooling pack


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1980 931 "Salt" Bucket wannabe racer (Dreaming)
1979 924 Sebring "Pepper" -Sold
1977 924 Slicktop "Pennie"-Most likely parts
1979 3/5 gt clone 924- Shop Test Car
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Mclaren924  



Joined: 13 Oct 2021
Posts: 253
Location: Oceanside CA

PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2025 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay very confused update, just pulled the tank out and it is quite literally brand new. Still has stickers on it from factory. Can't tell who made it but i'm guessing its the dansk unit as that's the only one I can find being made or sold right now.

Long story short is there is large clumps of debris and lots of debris in the end of the tank when the last little bit was drained out and it was swished around.

Very obvious rust line all the way around tank inierior walls right at the seam of where the 2 tanks seal, not sure if the relation is coincidental.

Can't really fathom how a brand new tank has rusted out this bad unless somebody had it filled full of water.

This car has barely been driven for past 18 months or so.

My theories not in order go, they got waster diluted gas out of a bad gas station and the car sat parked for a year or so and this caused it. Can't fathom there was that much water in there to trash a tank that quickly tho. The tank was defective and not sealed or treated correctly and allowed for extremely accelerated rusting.

A part of me feels like the stuff that came out wasn't just rust, seems really chunky and gritty to be rust. It does brake down into a gritty black paste on your finger if you rub for 30 plus seconds. I really just have a hard time wrapping my head around this no matter how I look at it. Almost feel like its been tampered with but that's unsubstantiated entirely. It just doesn't look like rust to me, the color, shape, size, and texture seem off.

If I was panning for gold we'd be rich


https://imgur.com/I1qmYwh

Will post photos and a vid of what I found.
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1980 931 "Salt" Bucket wannabe racer (Dreaming)
1979 924 Sebring "Pepper" -Sold
1977 924 Slicktop "Pennie"-Most likely parts
1979 3/5 gt clone 924- Shop Test Car
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peterld  



Joined: 10 Dec 2006
Posts: 980
Location: Noosa Heads QLD Australia

PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2025 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ooh, that's ugly.
Given I'm camped on the other side of the world without the ability to see and touch the ugliness, it's hard to offer any salient opinion.
However , if the rusting issue is at the join, then that has to be the culprit. It would seem that whatever sealant/mastic was applied to the join area has been compromised by fuel.
Ethanol additives such as plus 10% or 20% will compromise many rubbers and steels ; and conversely high octane ( so called "race" fuels) , at least in this part of the world, often contain very nasty additives which are extremely corrosive.
In times past, I had an intank pump eaten away from a tank full of purportedly 105 octane fuel in around a month.
These days my 24s and 44s run on pump 98 RON very well and the fuel lasts months without decay, while the daily slurps ethanol additives with glee....but then that's the way GM designed the LS1.
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Mclaren924  



Joined: 13 Oct 2021
Posts: 253
Location: Oceanside CA

PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2025 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is almost undoubtedly rust just very strange to me to happen this fast. I found some part number and date stamps and it's actually an original porsche tank and the date on it was 1999.....

The sticker is literally brand new not worn and completely legible once I pulled off another one covering it. I'm wondering if this tank was NOS and somehow had rusted from sitting or collected debris in it from sitting and PO never cleaned out.

This thing looks BRAND new, paint is perfect on it, all those hoses are soft and supple with no corrosion or rust. Very hard to belive it's been in this car for 25 years unless this car had also been sitting on a shelf for 25 years.

Whatever it is beyond the point of mattering because the tank is trashed and needs replacement. By the time customer pays me to flush and clean it, they might as well pay for a new one. As well as I don't have confidence it would ever truly be clean

Have moved into chassis repairs and jesus the PO did a number on this, expanding foam from your house uses everywhere on the widebody kit to seal it up. Engine bay has got a few giant chunks cut out and holes drilled everywhere for random shit.

They self tapped the inner fenders into the tub and the frame and their best work was doing it into the floorboards and not sealing it. Rust literally everywhere. Going to be sealing up the drain in the passenger side as those always turn into rusted out gaping holes. Most of today was just prepping all the sites for welding and getting passenger floorboards cleaned up ready to weld the two holes shut and then paint. Drivers side is twice as bad if not worse so that will be tomorrow. Will need more naval jelly (rust treatment) for that lol

This was after 30 min of wire brushing, flap discs, steel wire discs, I hit it with the whole kitchen sink lol. Pink stuff is the Naval Jelly



Afterwards with drain plug weld plate in place to be installed




In other news I just picked up a very similar 79 924 with gts widebody and after it sitting for 15 years we got it started in 2 days off ether. Starter wiring was chewed away and starter was corroded bad, cleaned it up and put some new wires on and it cranks good. Next up was the fuel pump and it of course was dead and not running despite 12v from a jumper on the relay so replaced with a known good and it works off the relay! Lucky dog i am.

The FD was glued solid so after freeing the rod from its eternal tomb, I cleaned out a ton of varnished fuel and hooked it back up again just for the tank to run out of fuel. Did me a solid and saved me having to drain it lol. Will be filling it up with 3-4 gallons and flushing it and putting a new filter in and will try injector testing again on friday. Might wind up making a thread on that car depending on how it goes, I told mt partner it's on death row lol. I bought it monday and it has until next monday to prove it will run and drive or it may just get parted. If the FD is bad, it may very well go to parts as I don't have a spare and I'm not paying to have that fixed. Been down that road of repairing them and i'll say I'd rather do window scrapers again lol.
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1980 931 "Salt" Bucket wannabe racer (Dreaming)
1979 924 Sebring "Pepper" -Sold
1977 924 Slicktop "Pennie"-Most likely parts
1979 3/5 gt clone 924- Shop Test Car


Last edited by Mclaren924 on Thu Jul 31, 2025 2:11 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Mclaren924  



Joined: 13 Oct 2021
Posts: 253
Location: Oceanside CA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2025 4:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just when I thought things were finally turning around and we were getting somewhere with the car, another large problem is uncovered.

At some point the PO used bondo to glue this patch over the mangled stock firewall on the clutch master side and it failed and was moving as well as the stock firewall is paper Mache at this point. Could possibly patch it and weld it back together but there will be basically as much weld as fresh metal and it will embrittle the surrounding metal making it prone to crack again. This was all hidden by some protecting padding the PO put all across firewall and then 2+mm of bondo and rubberized paint.

Talked to customer and he has decided to forgo and GT/GTS upgrades and seeks the correct fixes for the chassis to make the body sound and presentable.

Will wind up scanning the stock firewall and having a buddy waterjet me out a new replacement panel out of slightly thicker metal that I will be able to weld into good metal after trimming back the rusted/fatigued original firewall.

The passenger side floorboards are done and the inner fenders are mounted as well as all the welding in the pass side of engine bay is done. So while I wont be welding up a front mount setup, I will still be plenty busy welding lol.

Some 3d printed CF/ABS plugs for frame rail holes along will a lot of pics and videos of the build so far.







https://imgur.com/WfOjn9Q

https://imgur.com/3thRty9

https://imgur.com/EQjFefC
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1980 931 "Salt" Bucket wannabe racer (Dreaming)
1979 924 Sebring "Pepper" -Sold
1977 924 Slicktop "Pennie"-Most likely parts
1979 3/5 gt clone 924- Shop Test Car
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Mclaren924  



Joined: 13 Oct 2021
Posts: 253
Location: Oceanside CA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2025 4:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been finally getting to the end of the tunnel on this car body work wise. Need to grind/sand down welds on firewall and then repair the stud for the accelerator pedal and prime/ paint the floors and everything will be ready for paint. Customer is deciding if they just want to do the bay color matched or do the whole car over again in moonstone.

Here's the cool stuff everybody wants to see. Pauter Rods and JE Pistons along with the hybrid turbo that was made by a gentleman named simon AKA Scwhabenlader.







https://imgur.com/wjQ5oFo
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1980 931 "Salt" Bucket wannabe racer (Dreaming)
1979 924 Sebring "Pepper" -Sold
1977 924 Slicktop "Pennie"-Most likely parts
1979 3/5 gt clone 924- Shop Test Car
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 2783
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2025 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What spec did you go for on the turbo?
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peterld  



Joined: 10 Dec 2006
Posts: 980
Location: Noosa Heads QLD Australia

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2025 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

924 Porn!
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Mclaren924  



Joined: 13 Oct 2021
Posts: 253
Location: Oceanside CA

PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2025 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had to take a weekend sabbatical after all that body work

I believe the turbo specs are a machined our 6 ar housing to fit a Lancia compressor wheel which is normally a 47.4/66 but has a custom compressor wheel which winds out coming out to 72mm with an extended tip. Supposed to be almost 2x more efficient that stock turbo and is rated to 1.8bar or so. Also has a forged mahle BOV piston with ceramic coating and the bore honed to match.

May be wrong about the exact specifics dimensions on compressor wheel and can try and get exact specifics out of Simon the gentleman who spec'd and built the turbo but I'm not sure he will give all tricks out as it's a product he offers from his business Afterall.

Dropping off pistons and rods tomorrow and going to check on how machine work is going, if its going at all. also have to get paint lined up and get this car ready to go down, finished installing the only944 firewall brace.
What a miserable MF to install, it fits perfect in a 931 in terms of PITA factor. With damaged firewall being repaired and it all being painted, customer opted to have brace painted and seam sealered in when paint shop does engine bay.
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1980 931 "Salt" Bucket wannabe racer (Dreaming)
1979 924 Sebring "Pepper" -Sold
1977 924 Slicktop "Pennie"-Most likely parts
1979 3/5 gt clone 924- Shop Test Car
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 2783
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2025 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mclaren924 wrote:
Had to take a weekend sabbatical after all that body work

I believe the turbo specs are a machined our 6 ar housing to fit a Lancia compressor wheel which is normally a 47.4/66 but has a custom compressor wheel which winds out coming out to 72mm with an extended tip. Supposed to be almost 2x more efficient that stock turbo and is rated to 1.8bar or so. Also has a forged mahle BOV piston with ceramic coating and the bore honed to match.

May be wrong about the exact specifics dimensions on compressor wheel and can try and get exact specifics out of Simon the gentleman who spec'd and built the turbo but I'm not sure he will give all tricks out as it's a product he offers from his business Afterall.

Dropping off pistons and rods tomorrow and going to check on how machine work is going, if its going at all. also have to get paint lined up and get this car ready to go down, finished installing the only944 firewall brace.
What a miserable MF to install, it fits perfect in a 931 in terms of PITA factor. With damaged firewall being repaired and it all being painted, customer opted to have brace painted and seam sealered in when paint shop does engine bay.


I think I know what wheel it is, the 2470 which is on the original tag is 61mm OD, and absolutely rubbish. The billet wheel will be great, im very happy with mine.

I dont know if you ticked all the options, but Ive had a chat a while ago with that guy, since we both have been in the turbo industry there where alot of fun things to discuss, I know what he does with them and its definitely stuff that works, I think it will work great, they respond very well to turbo improvements.

I never heard anyone enjoy the installation of the firewall brace, gad you got that out of the way !
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chuck21401  



Joined: 20 Feb 2005
Posts: 595
Location: Annapolis, MD

PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2025 1:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mclaren924 wrote:
finished installing the only944 firewall brace.
What a miserable MF to install, it fits perfect in a 931 in terms of PITA factor.


Which part is miserable? Having to move everything out of the way to install it?

I was thinking about installing that firewall brace the next time I need to replace the clutch master cylinder.
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Mclaren924  



Joined: 13 Oct 2021
Posts: 253
Location: Oceanside CA

PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2025 6:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

chuck21401 wrote:
Mclaren924 wrote:
finished installing the only944 firewall brace.
What a miserable MF to install, it fits perfect in a 931 in terms of PITA factor.


Which part is miserable? Having to move everything out of the way to install it?

I was thinking about installing that firewall brace the next time I need to replace the clutch master cylinder.


Define move everything out of the way lol, I would assume you mean pulling clutch and brake pedal, drivers seat, steering column and associated parts as well to get up behind the dash. This car was mostly torn down already so I can't comment on what this would be like on a car with full interior and a complete engine bay. As a shop, I would probably pass on that job.

There's two bolts up and behind the steering column that is really hard to get to, one basically touches the top tub of engine bay and is all the way up in that skinny channel and the other is 3 inches down or so. There's one right behind the accelerator pedal arm. The other 3 bolts aren't too bad. Thank god I had the dash out and all the pedals out and I still had to pull out the steering column. I can't imagine doing it with everything else in the way, this car is basically fully stripped already, pretty much the only reason why I took on this part of the repair. Even than this was easily a job I would happily refuse again in the future even after being paid to do it, I used every swear word in the book to get that top bolt started.

The way they have placed the holes makes drilling the bottom two almost impossible to do accurately due to location of shock tower. The directions literally state "center punch whole 2-3mm to the left of desired hole location to account for the drill bit walking... this then leads to none of the holes being perfectly where you marked them and causing all the bolts to be extremely hard to start from inside car unless you ream holes bigger, I found reaming and tapping all the holes again was the answer for getting the top bolt in "easier". If your firewall isn't completely trashed, I'd recommend steering clear, and even then I may recommend a new chassis instead. I think Cedric made a cool brace for the brake master and or clutch master that mounts onto the strut tower brace or something along those lines. I think that could serve a very similar if not better effect and require a lot less brain damage. All depends on application of car too.

There's a bit at the bottom of the plate that doesn't sit perfectly flush, as well as all the bolts are going to protrude through the firewall brace and you will see the studs sticking through. I ground them down here in the last photo as I hated the look and it's all getting painted anyways. I also really didn't want to spend any more time under dash messing with shimming washers. You can use their instructions to try and shim them to not show, I found them basically useless as only 1 worked and even then I had to make it super loose to not protrude. The body shop will trim the plate where they like and seam sealer it in and paint it so thankfully I'm all done with body work on this car other than fixing the accelerator pedal mounting stud that broke and then sealing and primering the floor.





Used seam sealer on backside to get a good seal to firewall and ty to prevent and corrosion or fumes

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1980 931 "Salt" Bucket wannabe racer (Dreaming)
1979 924 Sebring "Pepper" -Sold
1977 924 Slicktop "Pennie"-Most likely parts
1979 3/5 gt clone 924- Shop Test Car
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chuck21401  



Joined: 20 Feb 2005
Posts: 595
Location: Annapolis, MD

PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2025 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

chuck21401 wrote:
I was thinking about installing that firewall brace the next time I need to replace the clutch master cylinder.


No need to think about it. There's no way I could do all of that.
Crossing my fingers that the firewall in my car holds together.

Thanks for the additional information and pics.
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Mclaren924  



Joined: 13 Oct 2021
Posts: 253
Location: Oceanside CA

PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2025 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cedric I believe the exact specs are a 47,4 mm compressor wheel inlet, with a 66mm compressor wheel outlet that winds up being 72mm with the extended tip. Ultimately I'm not a turbo genius by any shape or form, the main constraints with turbo choice was a relatively bolt in option. The customer was actually wanting a 8ar housing from a gts byt Simon informed us they are very hard to source and could be a long wait as well as they are quite laggy compared to the setup he has spec'd for us. If this car made 300 wheel with 91 on a dyno, the customer would be ecstatic and so would I. With that also in mind, a bigger less responsive turbo was ruled out. I'm very confident that this car will be an absolute thrill to drive and has room for more power if E85 was ever brought to the table as an option.
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1980 931 "Salt" Bucket wannabe racer (Dreaming)
1979 924 Sebring "Pepper" -Sold
1977 924 Slicktop "Pennie"-Most likely parts
1979 3/5 gt clone 924- Shop Test Car
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Mclaren924  



Joined: 13 Oct 2021
Posts: 253
Location: Oceanside CA

PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2025 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry for lack of updates, have had a martini car getting a complete mechanical/electrical restoration and it has needed basically everything gone through. It could be a 5 page thread of me just posting on that car, fixing others peoples mistakes is always 2x worse than fixing a mechanical failure.

Not much has been done to 931 project as it just got it dropped off to paint a few days ago and machine shop is supposedly getting everything done by next week. Currently not much to be done as I don't have the chassis or the motor. I do have the trans and TT so have been getting that all assembled and mocked up to make sure it's all there and will be no issue come install time. Currently toying around with short shifter. 100% credit to Lizard for original design and Ideola for posting the specs and having a good thread talking about it.

https://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=33456

Making a 3d printed mock up right now out of some cheap abs to test out the throw. Will print a Carbon Fiber nylon version after I get the design to tolerance and let a buddy test it out in his s1 turbo and see how he likes it. Really aiming for just an improvement of the stock to make spirited street driving more enjoyable. If we like the feel and how it drives, I'll machine one up and go from there.

On an engine related note, customer was interested in doing a lightweight flywheel and pp setup. I know the pp is an easy one to find as its a 915 part and somebody is making those for sure. The lightweight flywheel on other hand I'm not too sure is being made as an aftermarket part. Apparently the s2 flywheel is a good bit lighter? Will have to weigh some tomorrow to confirm this. I'm sure it's in this forum somewhere too lol.
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1980 931 "Salt" Bucket wannabe racer (Dreaming)
1979 924 Sebring "Pepper" -Sold
1977 924 Slicktop "Pennie"-Most likely parts
1979 3/5 gt clone 924- Shop Test Car
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