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barnwerks · Posted: Fri Dec 27, 2024 7:12 am Post subject:

[quote="Raize"]

Raize · Joined: 18 Sep 2013 Posts: 437 Location: Scotland

I guess one other issue with the in-tank pump is if it stops working, you end up with a pretty big restriction in front of the main pump.

I found data on the main pump that I'm using that says it's rated to 500mm of suction head, it's a Pierburg E3T internal gearotor pump, not sure if the Bosch roller cell pumps would be better or worse at that application.

wally509 · Joined: 06 Dec 2024 Posts: 14 Location: Burlington, WI

Hello,
Wanted to close the loop here. I removed the sending unit to get a better look and there were huge sheets of the POR-15 or Bill Hirsch or Eastwood tank coating floating around in there (I contacted the car's restorer and he could not remember for sure which brand he used). A professional fuel tank restoration shop was not able to get the remaining coating out so they could do their coating process, therefore the original tank was junk.

I purchased the Dansk repro tank 477.201.021 F. In order to use it I also needed the in-tank filter 928.201.081.04, the later sending unit 477.919.051 B and four adhesive rubber pads that go on top of the tank 477.201.295 B. The shop that did the work for me also replaced the breather hose, the overflow hose and the hose to the pump, and said those were just generic bulk fuel hose. This car was not equipped from the factory with the triangular expansion tank so they just ran a longer hose from where the fitting on the newer tank was for that to the filler neck connection for it. They reused the original bellows style connector hose from the new tank to the filler neck, it was compatible with the new tank.
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1977 Martini 924, 1985 Mercedes 300SD, 1956 Austin-Healey 100