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931 Head Installation Thread
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Carrera RSR  



Joined: 08 Jan 2010
Posts: 2241
Location: Somerset, UK

PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2021 1:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You will need to remove the distributor and its housing to change the oil sender or get down to the water temp sender. In extreme cases the intake manifold will need to come off too for extra access, especially if playing around with the coolant outlet from the head

Top tip..... make a new join/connector in the loom from top of engine to the back of head for oil, water and TTS connections. Install this short loom before installing the head or engine. Far easier then the reconnect to the rest of the top of engine loom.
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1980 931 - forged pistons, Piper cam, K27/26 3257 6.10 hybrid turbo, 951 FMIC, custom intake, Mittelmotor dizzy & cam pulley, H&S exhaust, GAZ Gold, Fuch'ed, Quaife
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8548
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2021 4:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally I would just remove the distributor, leave its housing. The bolts for the housing are a real pain to get to with the head installed, and just having the distributor out of the way I would think would be enough room...
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Vaughan Scott
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
Posts: 1120
Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2021 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would first go down to the hardware store and get a couple of spare nuts for the inevitable loss. I then put a ittle grease on a finger and embed the nut in the grease, reach down only needing one finger and start it on.
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Mike
Poco a Poco, #033 '78 Vintage racer, SCCA Dp-81
'77 924
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bureau13  



Joined: 07 Sep 2017
Posts: 412
Location: South Florida

PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2021 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The distributor itself is not installed, just the housing, FYI.

I can definitely see how making the new connector and fitting the wires before installing the head would have been a great idea. Wish I had thought of it at the time!

Definitely should get some extra nuts. The damn things seem to be aluminum, so I can't even fish them out with my magnet.
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-----------------------------------------
1982 931
1986.5 Silver 928S
2007 Hummer H3 (Daily Driver)

Past lives (I miss them all):
2004 RX-8 (Wrecked)
1993 RX-7 (Sold)
1987 RX-7 Turbo II (Sold)
1985 RX-7 GSL (Stolen)
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8548
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2021 11:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stainless, actually.

And the engine wiring harness does in fact split at the firewall, yes, easier to install all on the engine then only plug in after the thing's bolted in.
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Vaughan Scott
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bureau13  



Joined: 07 Sep 2017
Posts: 412
Location: South Florida

PostPosted: Sat Nov 13, 2021 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="924RACR"]Stainless, actually.

Doh! Yes, of course they're not aluminum
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-----------------------------------------
1982 931
1986.5 Silver 928S
2007 Hummer H3 (Daily Driver)

Past lives (I miss them all):
2004 RX-8 (Wrecked)
1993 RX-7 (Sold)
1987 RX-7 Turbo II (Sold)
1985 RX-7 GSL (Stolen)
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bureau13  



Joined: 07 Sep 2017
Posts: 412
Location: South Florida

PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2021 2:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the end I used a combination of recommended techniques. I superglued the nut to my finger and then quickly positioned it on the post and broke it loose.

One thing I just noticed....my ARP head stud kit came with no washers, just studs and nuts. When I was looking back over the instructions to get the torque values, I noticed it mentioned washers. I had assumed the ARP kit didn't need any if it didn't have any in the box. Anyone use the Cosworth Sierra kit on a 924 and recall if they had washers or not?
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-----------------------------------------
1982 931
1986.5 Silver 928S
2007 Hummer H3 (Daily Driver)

Past lives (I miss them all):
2004 RX-8 (Wrecked)
1993 RX-7 (Sold)
1987 RX-7 Turbo II (Sold)
1985 RX-7 GSL (Stolen)
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8548
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2021 4:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I seem to recall reusing the stock washers.

It was only 3 weeks ago, but I have been busy... LOL
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Vaughan Scott
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bureau13  



Joined: 07 Sep 2017
Posts: 412
Location: South Florida

PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2021 5:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually found the little bag of ARP washers that did indeed come in the box. Oops. I hadn't torqued anything down, so no harm done.

924RACR wrote:
I seem to recall reusing the stock washers.

It was only 3 weeks ago, but I have been busy... LOL

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-----------------------------------------
1982 931
1986.5 Silver 928S
2007 Hummer H3 (Daily Driver)

Past lives (I miss them all):
2004 RX-8 (Wrecked)
1993 RX-7 (Sold)
1987 RX-7 Turbo II (Sold)
1985 RX-7 GSL (Stolen)
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bureau13  



Joined: 07 Sep 2017
Posts: 412
Location: South Florida

PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2021 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm getting terrifyingly close to being ready to see if it will run again.

I noticed the marking on my crank pulley does not exactly match the mark on the flywheel for TDC. It's close, but not exact. I went with the flywheel mark, since that is what I will use to set timing.

I used a wrench to turn the motor over a few times...had a moment of panic when I heard a grinding sound, but it was just the coolant line bracket scraping against the crank pulley
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-----------------------------------------
1982 931
1986.5 Silver 928S
2007 Hummer H3 (Daily Driver)

Past lives (I miss them all):
2004 RX-8 (Wrecked)
1993 RX-7 (Sold)
1987 RX-7 Turbo II (Sold)
1985 RX-7 GSL (Stolen)
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8548
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2021 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, the rear/flywheel mark will be the most accurate; as long as the front pulley is within 60 degrees, you've got it all straight.
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Vaughan Scott
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#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype
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bureau13  



Joined: 07 Sep 2017
Posts: 412
Location: South Florida

PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2021 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I meant to ask in the previous post but got distracted: How do you guys torque down the cam sprocket and crank bolts? For my 928 I had a flywheel lock but I haven't seen anything like that for this car. I don't think putting it in gear will do the trick, at least not for the crank bolt. Wedge a pry bar against the flywheel teeth through the lower observation hole in the bell housing maybe? Seems a bit dodgy...
_________________
-----------------------------------------
1982 931
1986.5 Silver 928S
2007 Hummer H3 (Daily Driver)

Past lives (I miss them all):
2004 RX-8 (Wrecked)
1993 RX-7 (Sold)
1987 RX-7 Turbo II (Sold)
1985 RX-7 GSL (Stolen)
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8548
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2021 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the crank bolt - I stuck a bar through a couple of flywheel bolts, locked against the engine stand. Obviously you're talking about while installed... I'd suggest in gear, park brake on, and a wheel chock in the appropriate direction.

Unless you have the flywheel lock that goes in place of the starter; I have one, but as mentioned last time I installed/torqued the crank bolt was when the engine was on the stand for rebuild last month, so couldn't use the lock (since it mounts to the bellhousing).

I rarely remove the cam pulley... though I did replace mine with new this year, while in the car, think I just held the crank bolt, since the torque is lower from what I remember...
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'79 924 #77 ITB racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype
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bureau13  



Joined: 07 Sep 2017
Posts: 412
Location: South Florida

PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2021 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, that all makes sense. For the 928, the flywheel lock goes in place of the slave cylinder, so super easy to install and remove. Not the the starter is hard...

The wheel chock was the one piece there that I didn't add....that would definitely help, I will try it.

924RACR wrote:
For the crank bolt - I stuck a bar through a couple of flywheel bolts, locked against the engine stand. Obviously you're talking about while installed... I'd suggest in gear, park brake on, and a wheel chock in the appropriate direction.

Unless you have the flywheel lock that goes in place of the starter; I have one, but as mentioned last time I installed/torqued the crank bolt was when the engine was on the stand for rebuild last month, so couldn't use the lock (since it mounts to the bellhousing).

I rarely remove the cam pulley... though I did replace mine with new this year, while in the car, think I just held the crank bolt, since the torque is lower from what I remember...

_________________
-----------------------------------------
1982 931
1986.5 Silver 928S
2007 Hummer H3 (Daily Driver)

Past lives (I miss them all):
2004 RX-8 (Wrecked)
1993 RX-7 (Sold)
1987 RX-7 Turbo II (Sold)
1985 RX-7 GSL (Stolen)
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2421
Location: MI

PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2021 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a socket on a breaker bar and hit it with a cheater pipe from the bottom a bunch of times until it mostly stops tightening..
“Impact”

I call it “Harley tight”..
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