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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 6:52 am Post subject: |
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Front brake lines and the 240 calipers swapped from brown car..
No change.. _________________ 80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 9:49 pm Post subject: |
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Up and back at it bright and early this morning.. Decided to check ALL nuts/bolts for tightness..
One of the castor block bolts was crap so replaced that..
One of the crossmember to chassis nuts would neither tighten nor loosen, tried like heck to get it off but wouldn’t move.. Ended up just putting another nut on top of it which tightened up well..
And I’ll be darned!!
Front right lower ball joint boot is freshly torn!!
I really don’t think it was like that before, but is now..
Local parts store has a set of ball joints on the way for me that will be here by 3:30 this afternoon!!
Ugh... I’ve had this car up and down 50 times!!
Maybe lifting and lowering it all these times made it show? _________________ 80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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Mike9311
Joined: 14 Dec 2004 Posts: 1678 Location: Chicago-ish
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Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 11:46 pm Post subject: |
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Eddie
How are the wheels centered? Are they centric with a pilot?
I have had wheel shake recently on two different cars. The 330 you drove in was one. All I did was loosen the front wheels and snugged them tight while lifted rather than a light snug before dropping to torque. Massive difference
I would get the shakes on my other daily with the winter wheels all the time and a little less with the summer set. Once I started to do a tighter snug when lifted, conditions improved tremendously
Caught me off guard really because it didn't seem intuitive to have left/right wheel shake under braking from slightly off center wheels
I don't like 0.007 run out but i know others do. The argument is that it pushes the brake pads back after braking. I shoot for easily less than 0.001 to even far less. Machine my own discs on a machined hub in a lathe that gets trimmed every time for less than 0.0001" run out
0.06 for the wheels seems like a lot but I don't have anything to relate it to. _________________ 1980 931 since 1989
1981 Ideola 931 Club Sport
1982 931 Entwicklungsfahrzeug
1979 924 NA ohne 650 mit 471
1982 931 Red Resurrection - 951 IC
1982 931 parts car / resurrection?
1980 924 NA (R&D lightweight)
1982 931 wana-be GTR race car |
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safe
Joined: 18 Mar 2017 Posts: 586 Location: Sweden
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Posted: Thu Jun 24, 2021 12:16 am Post subject: |
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If the problem was run out in the rotors you would feel it in the brake pedal and only on braking. I had that in a 951, they were a good bit over the maximum run out specified in the manual (0.008 ??).
If you have a torn CV, I would check so that there is grease in there and that they are smooth in action.
A torn ball joint boot is worth a further look and obviously replace anyway. _________________ /Magnus, Stockholm Sweden
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Porsche 924 -79 NA, EFI and Turbo.
Porsche 931 -79
Porsche 911 -77, 3.2 Targa
Porsche 911 -69, 3.6, Coupe |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Posted: Thu Jun 24, 2021 9:48 am Post subject: |
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Replaced both ball joints and it made a very noticeable difference..
The shake is much less now, until I hit the brakes LOL..
The bad ball joint felt tight still in hand, but the new ones improved things..
I bet it had a sticky caliper(s) before my long drive home, and during the drive it warped the rotors just a little, and the very slightly bad ball joint made it worse..
Current hypothesis..
It’s pretty tolerable now.. Good enough for a long drive..
I’ve been driving it every day and it hasn’t missed a beat otherwise..
Sooo many test drives..
These front rotors are so brand new looking though.. I wonder if I could have them turned just enough to make them straight again?
I accidentally ordered new reman front 240 abs calipers with centric ceramic pads and a hardware kit, and new rear centric ceramic pads and hardware kit, last night..
Will also order new brake lines all around after some research, and decide on new front rotors or maybe turn these..
These rial wheels do feel hubcentric when putting them on, but I’m not sure..
The 0.060 I measured (max) on the wheels was more of a high spot/lump than the entire wheel being crooked..
Swapped to other wheels and it made basically no change though so I doubt it’s that..
I tried taking a video of the shake a day or 2 ago, but it doesn’t show up on video well.. Camera speed isn’t fast enough..
New ball joints look pretty sexy though!!
(While uploading)
Oh and I did the valve lash on it too, and 2 lobes looks less than perfect..
My brown car has lobes that look like that too on its stock cam, and hasn’t been a problem or gotten any worse, so I’m just going to run it, and keep an eye on it..
2 lobes were imperfect near the tips like that and the pic is of the worse one.. Other one is about half as bad as the pic one..
Buckets all look perfect.. 2 need thicker grub screws to get the last .003 ish tighter where id like them but it’s not too bad..
Getting OT..
I’m done working on this thing for now.. It’s going across the bridge Friday.. (day after tomorrow) _________________ 80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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Mike9311
Joined: 14 Dec 2004 Posts: 1678 Location: Chicago-ish
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Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2021 4:09 am Post subject: |
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Are those lobes the ones all the way back?
Edit: Get some shots of it on the bridge over the straight. _________________ 1980 931 since 1989
1981 Ideola 931 Club Sport
1982 931 Entwicklungsfahrzeug
1979 924 NA ohne 650 mit 471
1982 931 Red Resurrection - 951 IC
1982 931 parts car / resurrection?
1980 924 NA (R&D lightweight)
1982 931 wana-be GTR race car |
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safe
Joined: 18 Mar 2017 Posts: 586 Location: Sweden
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Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2021 6:23 am Post subject: |
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I had worn lobes like that on 6 lobes, the oil filter was absolutly filled with metall from less than 200 miles.
Check your oil filter for debris. _________________ /Magnus, Stockholm Sweden
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Porsche 924 -79 NA, EFI and Turbo.
Porsche 931 -79
Porsche 911 -77, 3.2 Targa
Porsche 911 -69, 3.6, Coupe |
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924RACR
Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 8803 Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
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Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2021 9:04 pm Post subject: |
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Wow, that lobe looks like hell. Would definitely try to get it out ASAP.
I would definitely give the rotors a turn, expecting that the abuse from the rest of the front end as well as dragging had distorted them.
I haven't really followed the thread well, have been having login problems; did you already replace the strut top mounts? Those, the balljoints, tie rod ends and a-arm bushings all must be right before the front end will track cleanly. But it's entirely doable; my '82 drives just fine if the tires aren't flat-spotted from sitting... _________________ Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2021 11:24 pm Post subject: |
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Yep.. A bit spookie to me too, so here I am in the hotel parking lot (just opened last week), way up in Marquette, checking on it..
The stiff in a suit parked next to me was less than impressed, but he is driving an SUV so obviously I don’t care what he thinks about vehicles..
No change to the cam..
It is both lobes on #2..
On the falling edge of the tips, as if it is throwing the valves open and slapping back to the cam as they come back down.. Or something..
I’m just going to keep watch on it and run it as long as it’s not getting worse (fastly)..
Concerning enough to tear into it for a peek in a hotel parking lot though..
Heh..
Ran out of rear brake pad on the drivers side now though that sounds a bit embarrassing, but whatever..
They are in the mail..
Found that the tapped hole in the upper charge tube where the meth injects is a bit whomped out.. So I’ll end up redrilling and tapping that for a bigger size and using a bushing..
Pretty sure it’s 1/8 NPT, I’ll make it 1/4 NPT and bush the difference..
So far so good.. Hasn’t exploded yet..
Was going to get bridge pics but it was so foggy you couldn’t even see the tops of the suspension rigging above.. _________________ 80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Posted: Sun Aug 15, 2021 6:51 am Post subject: |
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Recap and update:
New rear pads and lines..
New front calipers, pads, lines, one rotor, one wheel bearing (little gritty feeling, both on pass side), ball joints, front tires, swapped known brake master..
Brake lines all flushed very well with new fluid..
Have swapped front wheels with another set which resulted in basically zero change..
STILL SHAKES!!
Front wheels spin nice when lifted now.. No brake drag at all.. No stiff brake drag spots as wheel goes around anymore..
Basically zero change..
Very confident it’s not the brakes anymore..
I have new poly rear control arm bushings I’m about to put on/caster block bushings, and have ordered new upper strut mounts..
Ugh..
Weirdly, now sometimes the shake goes away at all speeds, and then shows back up..
I got so happy for a minute it quit shaking all the way from 65-85, and then I turned around, and the shake was back..
This is aggravating..
Those rear brake lines were a ***** to replace..
_________________ 80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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MikeJinCO
Joined: 08 Jun 2010 Posts: 1228 Location: Maysville, Colorado
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Posted: Sun Aug 15, 2021 8:16 am Post subject: |
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Didn't see anywhere on thread that you checked the wheel bearings. Also, aren't there some calipers that maintain a bit of pressure rather than full release? Could the 240 calipers be doing that? Have you checked the hub/rotor temperature with an infrared thermometer, could pinpoint the heat problem. _________________ Mike
'67 MG Midget Dp
'71 Ocelot Dsr Kawasaki 1000(under rebuild) |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Posted: Sun Aug 15, 2021 8:23 am Post subject: |
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Left side wheel bearing feels perfectly smooth and tight..
I even replaced one of the front wheel bearings that felt not perfect.. The right one..
After taking it apart it was the outer bearing that wasn’t quite smooth..
All smooth and tight now..
The 240 calipers don’t drag like at all..Very drag free compared to most calipers..
Wheels spin in them nicely..
Atleast I got rid of the rear brake grinding now.. They both had 1 pad each metal on metal which was very embarrassing until I could get pads (the right pads) and the hardware kit delivered.. _________________ 80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Posted: Sun Aug 15, 2021 9:13 am Post subject: |
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How hard is it to replace these rear control arm bushings?
I take it they will need to be sliced to get them off?
I just want this thing to drive nice
Maybe I’m not so good at this sort of stuff.. _________________ 80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2021 8:50 am Post subject: |
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I sliced the rear trailing arm bushings and they slid right off..
New poly ones slid right on..
Pretty easy..
One of those caster block bolt holes is kinda stripped out, so I’m running it without one of those thick washers for now..
Would like to find a more permanent solution to fixing that though..
Shake improved a LOT!
It is MUCH better but still not completely gone..
Next up will be strut top mounts.. They wiggle a bit when the car is jacked up if I pull the wheels at 12 and 6 very hard.. _________________ 80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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