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A question about the 924 NA injection system

 
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maybeoneday  



Joined: 09 Dec 2013
Posts: 82
Location: Melbourne, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 12:39 am    Post subject: A question about the 924 NA injection system Reply with quote

Hi again,
If you read my last post you will know I aquired a 77 NA 924 with a blown head gasket and I have been having a few issues getting it going after doing the gasket.

I was reading the Bosch K jetronic manual because my first look at this system almost killed me and I thought I better work out how it all worked. I have just noticed something and I thought I should ask about it.

There is a rather large boot on the air metering plate that runs to the inlet manifold via a plastic pipe and another boot. Off this boot (the one on the metering plate) there is a branch. On the car before I did the head this branch was plugged close to the boot with a screw (it ran nowhere and it was blocked off). When re-doing the piping I decided to replace this boot and reinstate the branch to where it was supposed to run. My investigation showed that this went to a canister thingy (I am sure this is the technical term) that at the time I was unsure about what it did. My reading about the system makes me think that this is an auxiliary air valve that provides more air at start up.

So I am guessing that if this branch was plugged then something was probably wrong, however the car did still start at this point (even though it made milkshakes in my sump). Could re-instating this branch be causing me problems in starting the car? I am thinking that if this valve was stuck in position then it would either perform the same as not having one (which is the same as plugging the branch) and therefor it should not be the cause of my problem, or help in starting by giving me the right air mix at start up but then cause issues when the car warmed. Is this theory correct? I am guessing that it is better to get this thing fixed rather than leave it how it was, right? Is this really what I think it is, the auxiliary air valve? If it is, I am guessing that a site search should bring up most of the answers I need in regards to the problems it can cause and the best solution to fix it.

Thanks again, learning about this thing is a little harder than I thought it would be, but it does bring to light some really beautiful engineering solutions and I am starting to appreciate the car a little more. I always liked them as a kid (this one is as old as me) but the 911 guys tried to talk me out of getting it when I mentioned it to them. I am glad I didnt listen and I went ahead and got it.
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larchie  



Joined: 19 Jun 2003
Posts: 297

PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 3:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are speaking of the auxiliary air regulator (valve), ...

... when the engine is cold the valve is open and air passes from the boot through the valve to the air intake. With ignition on the valve closes as the car is runs. So if the connection to the auxiliary air regulator is plugged permanently, it would not be the same situation when starting.

In the following diagram item 5 is the auxiliary air regulator and the connection in this diagram appears to come off the air mass meter boot:

But on my '79 the channel off the air mass meter boot is plugged and the connection to the auxiliary air regulator (valve) is off the intake boot:

If my memory is correct, the original air mass meter boot had no such connection, so my guess is that this closed off branch is designed for a later CIS design.

See the the parts in 924 PET Manual Main Group 1: Engine, SG 06, Illustration 106-00 on the website for Porsche Part Catalogues: Genuine Parts Catalogue
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Posts: 4448
Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you may be talking about the connection going to the hose for the brake booster.
It has a Y connector on the hose and connects to the intake manifold near the CSV as well as the booster.

the other boot near the throttle valve also has a take off which goes to the AAV

Most of your gear might be ROW specific as USA models had lots of extra vacuum lines.

check illustration 604-05 in the above PET part 22
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Porsche 924 1984 (UK import) NA
Its AUTO and its BLACK
Montego Black on black/red
Engineer of Electro/Mechanical Systems Maintenance
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scm924s  



Joined: 22 Oct 2010
Posts: 296
Location: Gloucester UK

PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I read this correctly, the outlet from the boot that fits onto the fuel distributor was blocked off on your car. As your car is 1977, it wouldn't normally have this outlet, this is for the crankcase breather on later cars. On the 1977 this breather goes directly into the air filter box. Possibly someone has fitted later trunking and therefore blocked this outlet off.

The brake booster connects to the alloy plenum chamber.

As has been mentioned, your car is likely to be euro spec.
_________________
1984 n/a Ruby Red Metallic
1988 924S Guards red- sold
1986 924S Guards Red - sold
1984 n/a Black - sold
1980 n/a Le Mans#1 - sold
1980 n/a Le Mans#2- sold
1977 Martini - sold
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maybeoneday  



Joined: 09 Dec 2013
Posts: 82
Location: Melbourne, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am just going to take a picture. I will post it soon.
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maybeoneday  



Joined: 09 Dec 2013
Posts: 82
Location: Melbourne, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi again,
Here is a photo of what I am talking about. So its not what I thought it was but thanks for the photo of the AAV coz now I know what that is. I think ozzie may be right because one hose goes to a t junction in the booster set up and another goes to the inlet manifold. anyway have a look at the photo let me know if this is plumbed right and I'll keep reading about this system and see if I can ever work it out.

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larchie  



Joined: 19 Jun 2003
Posts: 297

PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That would be the Deceleration Valve or Vacuum Limiter which I thought would be only on the early manual transmission 924s. Some people take it off completely supposedly to save on weight. (See link below for explanation.)



In the image you provided, he looping hose from this valve to the air mass meter boot would normally go instead to the center plastic piece between the boots on the manual transmission 924s:



And the branch on the air mass meter boot would be plugged.

Whether a Decel Valve would help on your '77, I don't know because on the '77 automatic I don't think there originally was a Decel Valve, so imy guess is that it might have been added by an earlier owner.

This page might be helpful in deciding what to do: CIS Deceleration Modification which should be appropriate for your 924.

In a post on the 924board.org Smoothie writes:
Quote:
The decel valve prevents a spike in A:F mix richness whenever the throttle is released. It does this by providing an air bypass around the the throttle plate that closes gradually. A spike in vacuum when the throttle shuts, opens the decel valve, then it closes slowly. Result is a more gradual drop in rpms. Without it, rpms should actually drop faster, so you have another problem that's keeping rpms up between shifts - maybe sticky throttle..
Decel valve also prevents backfires between shifts (which would be caused by the overly rich mix (unburnt fuel) entering the exhaust.
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scm924s  



Joined: 22 Oct 2010
Posts: 296
Location: Gloucester UK

PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting, never seen that before, my Martini has certainly never had that fitted.

Reading some of the information, it seems to be a Turbo specific part?
_________________
1984 n/a Ruby Red Metallic
1988 924S Guards red- sold
1986 924S Guards Red - sold
1984 n/a Black - sold
1980 n/a Le Mans#1 - sold
1980 n/a Le Mans#2- sold
1977 Martini - sold
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larchie  



Joined: 19 Jun 2003
Posts: 297

PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 1:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I am thinking that if this valve was stuck in position then it would either perform the same as not having one (which is the same as plugging the branch) and therefor it should not be the cause of my problem, or help in starting by giving me the right air mix at start up but then cause issues when the car warmed. Is this theory correct?

The Decel Valve shouldn't have any effect while starting and I can't see why a former owner installed it on a '77 automatic 924. According to the Chilton's Guide to Porsche 924 and 929:
Quote:
The deceleration valve is used on many manual transmission models to prevent an overly rich deceleration mixture. (my italics)

The increase in engine vacuum when decelerating condenses fuel behind the intake valves when the air supply is reduced by the closing of the throttle valve. This rich mixture would cause backfiring so the deceleration valve opens to compensate by increasing the air supply and lean out the fuel mixture.

To test the Decel Valve, the Porsche 924 Workshop Manual Vol. 1 states:
Quote:
a. Detach hose between valve and intake manifold at valve and insert plug in open hose end.
2. Start engine. Bring engine briefly to about 3500 rpm. Shut throttle valve quickly.
3. Check with finger for suction at hose connection. Replace valve if suction cannot be felt.

Or a different quick check of operation would be to pull the vacuum hose on the intake side of the valve while the engine is operating at normal temperature -- the idle speed should stay about the same.

The description in the Deceleration Valve Section of the Hanes Manual follows closely with the Porsche Workshop Manual description above:
Quote:
61 Deceleration valve - removal and Installation
1 1977 1/2 through 1979 models have a deceleration valve installed in vehicles with manual transmissions. Owners of automatic trans- mission models do not need to refer to this Section.
2 To remove the deceleration valve, loosen the two clamps which hold the hoses to the deceleration valve.
3 Remove the two nuts which attach the deceleration valve to the intake manifold and remove the valve.
4 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. *

62 Deceleration valve - checking
1 Loosen the clamp and remove the hose which connects the intake manifold to the deceleration valve at the valve end.
2 Insert a plug in the end of the hose.
3 Have a second person start the engine and accelerate it briefly to 3500 rpm.
4 On a prearranged signal, have your assistant suddenly lift off the throttle so that there is a sharp drop from 3500 rpm to idle. Place a finger over the hose connection to see if suction can be felt.
5 If no suction is felt, repeat the steps once again. If the same results are found, replace the deceleration valve.

Note that the Decel Valve wasn't installed on the early VIN '77 924s.
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maybeoneday  



Joined: 09 Dec 2013
Posts: 82
Location: Melbourne, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

great info thanks I have no idea what it is doing there if it is not supposed to be there. This car has only had 2 owners the guy who I got it from and his fathers friend. I am assuming this is true because there was no reason to lie about it as I was told after I had agreed to take it.

I also think I found my starting issue, I set the flywheel to the 10 line not the 0 because I can hardly see the marks, Anyone have an easy way to make these more clear without adding any more paint lines and dots.
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larchie  



Joined: 19 Jun 2003
Posts: 297

PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 5:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

maybeoneday wrote:
I also think I found my starting issue, I set the flywheel to the 10 line not the 0 because I can hardly see the marks, Anyone have an easy way to make these more clear without adding any more paint lines and dots.

Since no one else has replied, perhaps the safest and most aggravating solution for preserving or repainting is to clean the flywheel upon removal -- something, I think, no sensible person would do.

Certainly no cleaning products can be used which might leave a residue. It seems to me it might be OK to lightly rub the obscured markings with a highly volatile lowly reactive compound which does not leave a residue -- maybe, rubbing alcohol or ether.

I'm not sure why maybesomeday needs to retain the paint marks on the flywheel -- why not risk a light cleaning with brake cleaner and, if necessary, re-mark after calculating the degrees for the timing marks wanted if differing from the manufactured marks? It seems to me this could be accomplished cautiously and safely without disassembly and removal. Does anyone see a problem with this suggestion?

I've had difficulty interpreting 924 timing marks in the past so I understand why so many 924s have various painted flywheel timing marks. Additionally, markings differ somewhat on engines built in different years and engines built in different countries.

Diagrams for 924 NA US flywheel markings (obviously not to scale):


Porsche 924: L- pre-1977 1/2; R- 1977 1/2 -- pre-1980 1/2


Photo for 924 NA US flywheel markings:


Porsche 924: L-1977; R-1981


Photo for 924 NA RoW:


Porsche 924 1980 NA RoW (source rkn)
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would clean the timing mark areas with a wire brush & solvent on a rag then repaint the marks. Different colors for each. The problem with adding non factory degree marks with the flywheel on the car is getting the marks accurate. Furthermore, there is no reason to add additional timing marks. If you use a timing light with a built in advance you can compensate for whatever degree you want.
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larchie  



Joined: 19 Jun 2003
Posts: 297

PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jason c wrote:
...clean ... with ... solvent on a rag ...

Clarifying a bit if there are any auto newbies out there reading this thread ... the solvent being referred to is not a solvent like turpentine, toluene, carburetor spray, and so forth -- i.e., use no solvent that leaves an oily residue.
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

larchie wrote:
jason c wrote:
...clean ... with ... solvent on a rag ...

Clarifying a bit if there are any auto newbies out there reading this thread ... the solvent being referred to is not a solvent like turpentine, toluene, carburetor spray, and so forth -- i.e., use no solvent that leaves an oily residue.


I agree if your going to saturate the area by pouring or spraying it. When I said solvent on a rag I mean dab the tip of the rag in solvent (of any kind really) so it is damp not dripping. You can put it on a screwdriver like a big Q-tip for an easier reach. I think what larchie is getting at is you don't want any type of oil getting to the flywheel, clutch or pressure plate surfaces. Otherwise, anything that will leave the surface clean enough for paint will work.
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