924Board.org

[fwood]

I ressurected an 82 931 that had been parked for ten years last year. Since performing the miracle of making it come to life I enjoyed 2000 miles of driving until I decided to give myself the gift of heat in November. Since replacing the heater control valve the car has made 10 miles at best. On the test ride it died with a growng creshendo of backfires and no-go.When I stopped in complete silence smells of oil and plastic enveloped the car.Popping the hood presented me with the sight of flames from the turbochrger which I was able to qwell with a beer I just happened to have in my possesion. Since then I have replaced the vacuumm elbows and lines.It starts fine from stone cold and runs fine to almost full temp then starts to stumble and then evetually die. I improved Its runnuning by playing with the air mixture but dont trust it.What am I missing?

[Grenadiers]

Got coolant?
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'83 944 Track car.
'88 924S Track car.
'89 944 Turbo
2004 Winnebago Vectra monster RV
2012 Jeep Wrangler
2014 Kia Soul
2001 Ford F350 powerstroke

[Rasta Monsta]

Replace fuel filter, then test fuel delivery per FSM, then system and hot/cold control pressure per FSM.
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Toofah King Bad

• WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3

[9xx]

Also clean battery connections, especially the connections from battery to body. Even if they don't look bad at first glance clean them with steel wool, sand paper or with something similar.
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Mikko

All gone: 931 '82 Alpine White, original option "220" G31 with LSD + 3 x 944

[peterld]

And DITC connection to 'ECU'. These have a rotten habit of breaking contact giving lurching or it just stops. Check the connections to the aluminium 'box' located behind the centre console.
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80/81 932/8 ROW

[Nein37]

One possiblity.

Check if your alternator is overcharging. If it is it can cause problems with the DITC... might even have fried it. To check, start the car and put a multi-meter on the battery terminals. You should see around 14 volts, if its over 15 you're overcharging. Replace alternator and hope the DITC isn't burnt.
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1981 931 CGT replica, OEM CGT intercooler, .8 BAR WG spring, GTS Headlights, Innovative Wide band A/F, A/C delete, 16" Fuchs, Weltmeister 200lb lowering springs, Bilstein HDs front, Koni Sport rears.

[fwood]

I have coolant,re-checked system and control pressure,cleaned electrical contacts, replaced vacuum hoses,have changed fuel filter twice,checked fuel delivery,verified sensor plate ,changed coil,fuel pump relay ect.I just feel that it has to be something simple as it ran well until I changed the heater control valve-a tight fit.Is there any electrical connection hidden in that area that could have been hit and what is the sympton of a temperature swith(lambada ) going bad
Frank
82 931

[9xx]

[fwood]

Ill test those connections again. I understand how to test the wur itself-how do I test the line in to it
Frank
1982 931

[fwood]

I put a ommeter on the temperature switch (lambda) and read open at dead cold-is that correct?
Frank
82 931

[stevekat]

Could you have disturbed the wire leading to the flywheel sensor? I don't recall if it is in that area.
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"Never get out of the boat. Absolutely goddamn right. Unless you are goin' all the way."

Gone to new home: '81 924T, US version, CGT Intercooler, UTCIS-PT, Euro DITC, Greddy Trust MBC, Forged Fuchs Flat Dish 6's, Factory Recaro's.

[fwood]

I finally woke up to the fact that I did not replace the thermostat-it had sat with the car for ten years. seems to have been the root of all evils
.This should maybe be added to the resurrecting a long dead turbo thread as a TO DO for all us dumbass know-it alls that follow these threads without any real confidence in our mechanical instinct because its a Porsche

Frank 1982 931