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How to drive straight with the 924.

 
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 8886
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 5:23 am    Post subject: How to drive straight with the 924. Reply with quote

damnit the computer crashed when i was half way done with this !


so...what was i saying....ah never mind.
This is for those who cant get a new or a good condition steering shaft.


NOTE1: 99% of times only the lower joint of the shaft develops play because of rust.
NOTE2: The shaft is NOT welded to the joints.
TOOLS: 13mm tubular with extender, 13mm wrench, metal cutting tool(like a sharp screwdriver on steroids, shown in pictures), above 200g hammer, de-rust spray, used oil.


0. Source a spare steering shaft.(one joint will always be in good condition)
1. Remove the air filter with that plastic. 4 clamps
2. Remove the good joint from the spare steering shaft as shown in the picture. The shaft is held by itself..you just have to use that metal cutting tool and the hammer to round the shaft back.





MOVE UNDER THE CAR: you need to jack up the car(wach that shit) or use a tunnel to work under the car.

3. Remove the 4 bolts holding the steering rack to the crossmember
4. Remove the 2 bolts holding the steering shaft to the steering rack and steering axle.(here you have to use the 13mm tubular with extender from the top and with the other hand you will hold from rotation the other side of the bolt with the other 13mm wrech, the bottom bolt is easy)
5. Free the shaft from the car.
6. Repeat the procedure from 2 only this time remove the bad joint(usualy the lower one) from your shaft.
7. Clean everything up and mount the good joint wich you removed from the spare shaft onto the shaft of your car.(be sure to mount two good joints )
TAKE CARE WHEN MOUNTING THE JOINT ON THE SHAFT, THE METAL IS VERY EASY TO DEFORM AND YOU CAN RUIN THE JOINT BY HAMMERING TOO MUCH OR TO HARD. i USED WOOD BLOCKS TO PROTECT THE JOINTS. DONT HIT THE + OF THE JOINTS...YOU WILL DESTROY THEM. I ALSO USED THIS METHOD TO PUT THE JOINT BACK:


TA-DAAAAAA !

8. Mount the shaft back on the car. (4 reversed) BUT DO NOT TIGHTEN BOTH BOLTS HOLDING THE SHAFT.
9. Mount the steering rack back.
10. Take a short drive...a few meters...let the new shaft get along with the other parts.
11. Tighten the two bolts holding the shaft.
12. Enjoy a straight road.
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 8886
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 5:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

forgot to mention: car is LHD and it took me about 3-4 hours of labor to do this.
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PORSCHEV  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 1901
Location: Cedar Lake Nova Scotia, Canada

PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 6:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good job... I will just replace the works on mine. It will likely last another 30 years.
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1976 924
5 lug conversion, 17'C2 wheels,custom body work,327 vette engine.

1978-#53 "D" track racer.
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Allan  



Joined: 08 Dec 2006
Posts: 22
Location: Estonia, Tartu

PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2007 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great job! The lower joint of my car makes bad noise also. Wondered how that can be fixed BTW where did U get new joint? Can those parts be ordered?

Thanks Allan

EDIT: found the answer

LINK
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 8886
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2007 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

no.....i you can only buy a complete steering shaft for ~500EUR thats way above 600$(original made bye PORSCHE...i called).. you can get a good joint from another used shaft...one of them is always good...usualy the one from the top...then you put two "top" joints on one shaft

EDIT: dont know about the beetle...i've searched around...i have a friend who has beetles...and the steering of the the two beetle models that he has is totaly different.
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zimm  



Joined: 18 Oct 2006
Posts: 62
Location: Hereford, UK.

PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

err .. i just went to a local engineering workshop, put the old shaft on the counter and said "how are you with steering columns?"

picked it up 48 hours later with 2 new joints installed, total cost was about £40 parts, £40 labour ..

its still money, but its like new, and cheaper than a new shaft
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 8886
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 1:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well i dont have such a shop around me.....and i would not trust any different joints than the ones made and designed by the factory.
However the total cost was below 50 EUR as i remember...these joints are not new...but they go preety well up to 220Kmph.
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zimm  



Joined: 18 Oct 2006
Posts: 62
Location: Hereford, UK.

PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 2:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

fair enough,

although i'd trust new joints installed by a professional over second hand ones installed by me with a hammer. For one thing, the shaft is meant to collapse in the event of a head on.

incidentally its only the actual joints that were replaced on both* my shafts, they left the external U-shaped bits in place and fitted new internals with a press.

*yup, had it done twice, first time by H J Chards in bristol (recommended by porschtech, who send their stuff to them), second time by a place local to me called Frank Dawson engineering.
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 8886
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 4:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

as you said...fair enough...maby i'll send one shaft to be refurbished too.
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