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jopather

Joined: 16 Jun 2005 Posts: 58 Location: California
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Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 12:24 pm Post subject: weird noise and electrical problems - again |
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Hey masters of everything 924ish...
Got a couple questions. I goofed up on my first replacement of my front wheel bearings, since they only lasted about 8500 miles (very dissapointing). I had to keep driving my car for a few more weeks before I could replace them because I had to get to work each day, and towards the end of that time, I had started to hear a weird "clunk" noise when I went around hard right hand corners. It sounded like it was coming from the front driver's side wheel, and I could definitely feel it in the steering.
When I took off my wheels, etc. and replaced the bearings, they were definitely worn out, and my front passenger side spindel was worn on the outboard bearing surface, like where the inner race rides. I went ahead and replaced the bearings, and the grinding noise is gone now, but the "clunk" is still there - Any ideas? Do I have to replace that spindel, or should I be able to tighten up the clamping nut to get rid of any play in there?
Any ideas would be welcome... I really don't want to have to replace a spindel with one from a junkyard.... And it's weird that the sound seemed to be coming from the driver's side, but the worn spindel is on the other side.
Now for the electrical question - a while back I had to have a little bit of welding done, since my door was tearing away from the body. I was there when the guy welded it, and he definitely disconnected the battery, but ever since then, my dash panel is fritzing out - my gas gauge tacs out, my temperature gage rises super fast until it tacs out (like the signal to it is boosted), and my high-beam light is always on. When I turn on my headlights, the pannel lights are really dim, and my tac gauge drops really low. If I turn on my high beams, the light goes out, and my tac drops even more...
I'm guessing this is a short somewhere in the pannel, since my gauges on the center console don't have any problem, and their lights are bright as ever when the headlights are on. Anyone know where I should look for a start, since once I really hate squirming to shove my head under that stupid dash...
Thanks guys, have a great weekend _________________ 1978 924
My car - a hole in my driveway where all my paychecks go... |
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Paul

Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 9491 Location: Southeast Wisconsin
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Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 1:26 pm Post subject: |
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The clunk may be your strut mount.
Adjust the wheel bearings so that you can just move the washer (under the nut) with a screw driver.
Need pictures of the spindle. _________________ White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy. |
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jopather

Joined: 16 Jun 2005 Posts: 58 Location: California
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Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 1:51 pm Post subject: |
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I read that about moving the washer without levering, etc. in the manual - how much force should it take to move it though? If I take it all apart to readjust the nut, I'll take a picture for you. I'm still really hoping it's some part of my suspension, so I'll look into that.
Wouldn't the strut mount just make one solid "clunk" as it shifts, and then be done? This is more like several clunks throughout the corner, at no regular interval...
Thanks a ton! _________________ 1978 924
My car - a hole in my driveway where all my paychecks go... |
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Paul

Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 9491 Location: Southeast Wisconsin
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Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 2:06 pm Post subject: |
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Check your inner and outer tie rod ends for play.
Check your ball joints.
Check the rack for play.
Make sure your rack mounting bolts are properly torqued.
Not sure of your skill level so, how did you pack the wheel bearings with grease? _________________ White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy. |
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Ozzie

Joined: 12 Mar 2005 Posts: 4448 Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia
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Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 9:24 am Post subject: |
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As a guide when I do my front bearings I put the wheel on to adjust the nut.
I tighten the nut tight at first to make sure the bearings are seated, then loosen off.
I grab the top and bottom of the wheel and push/pull, noticing the 'play' or movement.
Tighten the nut gradually, checking the 'play' until its gone.
Backoff a fraction and tighten the allen key.
There should be a very small amount of play and the wheel should rotate freely.
grabbing the wheel at the sides does not work because of the steering links, tie rods etc.
This works for me anyway. _________________ Porsche 924 1984 (UK import) NA
Its AUTO and its BLACK
Montego Black on black/red
Engineer of Electro/Mechanical Systems Maintenance |
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Tim Cuddihy
Joined: 15 Dec 2004 Posts: 47 Location: Toowoomba, Australia
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Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 11:55 am Post subject: |
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I had a similar problem with mine but it was on left hand turns. The engine mounts had collapsed and the exhaust was hitting the steering shaft as the engine moved about mid-corner.
Mine is a right-hand drive so perhaps yours is doing something similar turning the other way. |
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jopather

Joined: 16 Jun 2005 Posts: 58 Location: California
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Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 1:36 am Post subject: |
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I've never done much work at all on all my suspension, so I'll have to take some time to learn what's up with all of that and check the parts. Just a few questions, though - if it was a part of my suspension or steering, wouldn't it make noise on either direction of turn? Or does it just depend on where the weight is thrown?
Paul - I packed the bearings with the old method of putting a glob of grease in the palm of my hand and pushing the bearing sides into it until I got grease squeezing out from between the rollers and the inner race. Is this sufficient?
Ozzie - I think I might try using the wheels, since I really can't feel the play until the wheel is on anyways. How do you tighten down the clamping nut with the wheels on? Or do you take them back off to do that...
Tim - I'll check about your thought. I know my motor mounts are getting pretty old, so maybe...?
Thanks guys! _________________ 1978 924
My car - a hole in my driveway where all my paychecks go... |
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!tom

Joined: 28 Aug 2006 Posts: 1941 Location: Victoria, BC Canada
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Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 6:43 am Post subject: |
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| Ozzie wrote: | | There should be a very small amount of play and the wheel should rotate freely. |
Actually, bearings should be run with some amount of pre-load for optimum performance.
If there is any play, this means the roller elements are contacting the race in some regions, and are free from the race in other regions. This movement is less than ideal.
If the bearing is adjusted just so that there is no play when jacked, while under load, the elements will deflect and deform enough so that once again, there is play under use.
The correct bearing adjustment involves sufficient pre-load so that the rollers are in constant contact with the race under all loads experienced by the bearing. This involves substantially more pre-load than when you can feel the wheel wobbling as described above.
It is better to error on the side of too much pre-load than too little. The description of being able to move the washer when the nut is adjusted gives rise to a range of pre-load that is acceptable -- an acceptable adjustment is within a fair range of pre-load. However, remember that tighter is better (to a point obviously), so keep tightning until it is difficult to move.
I don't recall if the description indicates the washer should be moved to confirm adjustment with the locking screw tight or loose on the bearing retaining nut, but tightning this screw will tighten the bearing adjustment, if the initial adjustment is performed with the locking screw loose. In many cases this will be enough to shift a too-loose bearing adjustment into the realm of sufficient pre-load, but in no case should you feel slop in a roller bearing assembly. _________________ 78 924 NA
5-lug |
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Ozzie

Joined: 12 Mar 2005 Posts: 4448 Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia
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Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 11:27 am Post subject: |
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If I put any pre-load on the bearings the washer does not move at all.
The wheel goes off and on several times when testing and adjusting- was easier before I fitted turbo rims. _________________ Porsche 924 1984 (UK import) NA
Its AUTO and its BLACK
Montego Black on black/red
Engineer of Electro/Mechanical Systems Maintenance |
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Rasta Monsta

Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11733 Location: PacNW
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Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 3:14 pm Post subject: |
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I like Ozzie's technique. The washer moving technique isn't as reliable, IMO.
And, FWIW it you run with zero play you are running contrary to Porsche factory shop manual. _________________ Toofah King Bad
- WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
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Rasta Monsta

Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11733 Location: PacNW
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Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 3:19 pm Post subject: |
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| Paul wrote: | | Not sure of your skill level so, how did you pack the wheel bearings with grease? |
How do you do it Paul? I tried one O them bearing packing attachments for my grease gun, thought it worked pretty good. _________________ Toofah King Bad
- WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
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