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Oil Pressure Change

 
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numbbers  



Joined: 05 Nov 2002
Posts: 1910
Location: Highlands Ranch, Colorado

PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 11:22 am    Post subject: Oil Pressure Change Reply with quote

I changed my oil pressure sender today, because my OP guage was shaking. Thought I would let you know, that the OP changed from 8 bar at start-up, to 6.5 bar. My conclusion, is that the senders are not very accurate in sending actual oil pressure.
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Posts: 4448
Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My OP guage was jumping around occasionally but usually steady, just every now and then.
Then my OP light and brake warning light on the centre conole started flickering regularly.
I traced out the wiring back to the dual sender.
The sender was fine.
What was the problem was the heat shield/sound deadening material.
It was coated in aluminium foil type material and it was peeling off near the sender, effectively shorting it out.

As to accuracy? Some indication is better than none.
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tux  



Joined: 02 Jul 2006
Posts: 133
Location: Nottingham UK

PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bit of a digression here, but still sort of related (sorry to threadjack!) but I have noticed the oil warning light behind the steering wheel flicking on briefly if I am cornering "enthusiastically". I am guessing this is the oil in the sump shifting to one side so the oil pickup has nothing to draw from. Is this a normal thing with the 2 liter Audi unit or should there be baffles or something in the sump to prevent it happening?
Chhers peeps!
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
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Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have heard of this happening.
Re my ealier post... the oil and brake light would flicker worse when cornering. May be related?
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tux  



Joined: 02 Jul 2006
Posts: 133
Location: Nottingham UK

PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could well be related I guess Ozzie. Maybe a little exploration of wiring is in order.
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augidog  



Joined: 03 Mar 2003
Posts: 1360
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 11:43 am    Post subject: Re: Oil Pressure Change Reply with quote

numbbers wrote:
I changed my oil pressure sender today, because my OP guage was shaking. Thought I would let you know, that the OP changed from 8 bar at start-up, to 6.5 bar. My conclusion, is that the senders are not very accurate in sending actual oil pressure.

Is it reading higher at idle?
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flosho  



Joined: 01 Jul 2004
Posts: 3160
Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin

PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've noticed that my oil pressure is around 2 bar at idle after driving my car for a while and getting it warm... sometimes a little under 2. However this is usually when I have my lights on, when I turn my lights OFF the oil pressure needle will quickly shift about 3/4 to 1 psi higher, so at idle it'll be 2-3 bar w/o the lights.

lol I think 2-3 psi of oil pressure wouldn't get the job done! [/b]
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Last edited by flosho on Tue Jul 11, 2006 3:40 am; edited 1 time in total
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seanski44  



Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 532
Location: Nottingham UK

PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

as someone (Pete?) has mentioned before.. the guages, though still better than none at all, are little more than eye candy, as they aren't isolated from each other. when I was having alternator woes (hopefully they're all behind me for a while!) the oil pressure and volts would all be affected by any electrical item being switched on or off...

btw as for the oil light coming on, that doesn't happen to me, but I have the flickery 'brake' light at the mo.... checked the reservoir and all looks good, so hopefully its an electrical gremlin!
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
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Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The brake (dash) light is connected with the oil light via a blue/black wire to the oil sender.
This allows the lights to come on b4 starting.
Also connected to the m/c reservoir.
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9081
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

flosho wrote:
I've noticed that my oil pressure is around 2 psi at idle after driving my car for a while and getting it warm... sometimes a little under 2. However this is usually when I have my lights on, when I turn my lights OFF the oil pressure needle will quickly shift about 3/4 to 1 psi higher, so at idle it'll be 2-3 psi w/o the lights.


That is all very normal and acceptable values.
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Slam  



Joined: 07 Jan 2005
Posts: 1689
Location: Wainwright, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2006 3:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 944 oil pressure gauge would alter its reading when I turned the headlights on. A new ground harness wireed to the ground point behind the glovebox solved that problem. If you can't clean your grounds, run new ones and stand back and watch gremlins magically disappear!

Also, our 931's oil pressure gauge flickered at idle and within a month the car had spun rod bearings. Take your gauge's word for it if it's telling you your oil pressure is fluctuating. They may not be completely accurate, but a flickering needle spells trouble - providing, of course, any wiring issues have been resolved.
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Raceboy  



Joined: 01 Mar 2004
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Location: Estonia, Europe

PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2006 3:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slam wrote:
A new ground harness wireed to the ground point behind the glovebox solved that problem.


Not intending to hijack a thread, but can you explain a bit what and where exactly did you wired a new ground harness?
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Slam  



Joined: 07 Jan 2005
Posts: 1689
Location: Wainwright, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sure. I ganged a series of female spade connectors to a wire running to a ground point behind the glovebox (solder everything) where there's a factory ground point - at least there is on my 944. The female connectors just run to all the ground spade connectors on the console gauges and such. Because the battery grounds to the battery box, if the factory ground point isn't there, just pop a self-tapping machine screw into the sheet metal behind the glove box - it's right by the battery box and provides a good ground, as long as the battery negative cable is attached properly. I've also run another ground directly to the engine block, so I've got two coming off the battery - one to the battery box and one to the engine block. Works well - so far!
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