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levans924 Guest
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Posted: Thu Oct 10, 2002 12:41 pm Post subject: |
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ok when i bought the car it was not runing so i striped the engine bay and took apart the fuel distributor. I took it apart from where the star bolts hold the two halves together and since then it has a slow evaporation leak form the two halves.
My question is has anyone done the same thing and will i be able to seal it with something? |
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JPAB924 Guest
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Posted: Thu Oct 10, 2002 1:27 pm Post subject: |
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taking apart the fuel distib. is a big no-no. In a manual I was reading somewhere they say not to disassemble it, Other than the control plunger and the press. relief valve. I believe you would be better off getting another unit seeing that the operating press. is up towards (I believe) 90 psi.
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JPAB924 Guest
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Posted: Thu Oct 10, 2002 1:27 pm Post subject: |
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taking apart the fuel distib. is a big no-no. In a manual I was reading somewhere they say not to disassemble it, Other than the control plunger and the press. relief valve. I believe you would be better off getting another unit seeing that the operating press. is up towards (I believe) 90 psi.
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Smoothie Guest
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Posted: Thu Oct 10, 2002 1:43 pm Post subject: |
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I've read that too - and heard it a few times, but there's got to be a trick. How did they get them assembled leak-free at the factory? You'd think a thin layer of some sealant or something had to be put on the surfaces before assembly, right? Someone out there must know the secret... |
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levans924 Guest
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Posted: Thu Oct 10, 2002 1:54 pm Post subject: |
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maybe i might take it apart again and realy make sure the surfaces are clean, then put it back together.
Can't aford any engine fires!
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Joes924 Guest
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Posted: Thu Oct 10, 2002 2:14 pm Post subject: |
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good luck let us know if it works |
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wdb Guest
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Posted: Thu Oct 10, 2002 2:19 pm Post subject: |
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if all else fails , have the seam welded . putting off buying a new one till another day. |
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924RACR
Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 8803 Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
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Posted: Thu Oct 10, 2002 10:27 pm Post subject: |
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Just found out, can be sealed (if surfaces are clean) with Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket #3... non-hardening type, fuel resistant, link below to show pic.
http://www.permatex.com/products/prodidx.asp?f_call=get_item&item_no=80019
Here's an excerpt from a procedure I'll be reviewing and testing and posting. YMMV, I have not run this myself yet, but it comes from a reliable source. Some details may be different, use at your own risk. I take no responsibility for any damaged fuel distributors resulting from this. I will post the whole thing in a little bit.
GLUE: You should put a very tiny amount of a low viscosity fuel-resistant sealant,
like Permatex aviation form-a-gasket, on the perimeter of the thin stainless
steel diaphram. If you do not, taking it apart again might be simpler, but
the chances of a leak are significant. Any leakage will be evident as a
wetness when you are all done. You must not use more than a few (5 to 25?)
thousandths of an inch of sealer, by a few mm wide; the sealant line must go
between the fuel-filled parts and the bolt holes/ outside. It must not go far
from the bolt holes and the perimeter. it must not go near the tiny central
passages or the 4 aluminum pressure control/ relief valve/ orifices. You must
use a little tapered object to center the diaphram (it is symetric EXCEPT for
a little bleed hole, which lines up with larger holes in both the head and
block castings) on the lower housing. A stick pen may work well, pushed
gently into a couple of bolt holes on opposite sides. The holes in the thin
steel are the same diameter as those in the castings, so this centers it well,
perhaps after a few repeats to be sure.
Then you must put the 4 curved o rings on the little sheet steel guides in
the oblong holes at each fuel-metering slot location. If they are too hard,
use ordinary fuel type o-rings of the right thickness; ring ID is of less
importance. The sheet-metal guides can be removed, but again, why bother.
Before you put on the glue/ sealant or start to reassemble the unit, assess if
it is perfectly clean. If in any doubt, brush all parts in very clean
solvent. For rinsing, paint thinner or unleaded fuel work well; it must be
very clear (i.e. grit free). A fume hood is good for this, as are rubber
gloves. I find that stirring the bowl of solvent with the part is effective
at getting all the grit off. If you skip this step, you will get enough grit
on the metering rod etc. to make things stick. They will not tolerate even
invisible dust. You cannot do this assembly on a windy day outside, as there
is too much grit in the air.
Anyway when the diaphram is perfectly centered, and the curved o-rings are in
place outside each slot, put a thin film of grease on the outside of the 4
o-rings. A microlitre (one cubic mm) of grease should be enough; 10
microlitres is a bit too much.
Now put the lower housing onto the top one, which I have called the "head".
If you do not keep the top one inverted, all its little aluminum rings will
fall out. If you are working in the dark, or over the lawn, you are now
toast. If you drop a piece on a clean sheel of paper, no problem. Don't
get upset at this point, 'cause I told you so!
_________________ Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
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dpw928 Guest
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Posted: Fri Oct 11, 2002 11:22 am Post subject: |
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Vaughn,
Those are great instructions. Wish I had them when I rebuilt my 928 distributor. I used the article in "UpFixin V" and tried using a loctite sealant but it kept plugging the tiny decoupler holes. I ended up using a razor to clean all mating surfaces then used bearing grease as a sealant (old flat head stamped headgasket trick). It is thick enough to seal the seeping leaks but is quickly cleared out of the decoupler holes. Also, I would add that when retightening the screws, rotate the pattern and tighten in stages just like head bolts. Two years and no leaks as yet.
Dennis |
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924RACR
Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 8803 Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
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Posted: Fri Oct 11, 2002 10:32 pm Post subject: |
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It's good to hear a few success stories on this one!
_________________ Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
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