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Testing Fuel Pump Relay
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winddude  



Joined: 15 Jan 2020
Posts: 50
Location: Vancouver Island

PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 5:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dogleg5 wrote:
I suck when it comes to figuring out electrical stuff. When I bought my 82 the pump wouldn't run so the easiest thing for me to do was look to the relay as the fuses were all good. Before buying a new relay or trying to rig up jumper wires in the panel, I opened the relay I had and wedged the contacts together with a short piece of straw from a WD 40 can. Flattened it as much as I could and wedged it in there to hold the contacts together. Pump ran all the time obviously but, it told me it was the relay. (I keep this as my test/emergency relay in the glovebox) If you still have either of the two new relays you bought, try that. If it runs you have another bad relay UNLESS something is causing the relays to malfunction. If that were the case I would think that the jumper wire setup you have would start to get hot and melt wiring. Again, I suck at electrical stuff.


I've tried 3 relay, my original, which was working at one point, and 2 new KAE relays form the parts store, both of which never worked. Works when jumped.
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dogleg5  



Joined: 01 Apr 2020
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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That section 15 has to be wrong. It tells you to do the same thing twice and gives two different values. Either that or I'm dense. If you have a ballast resistor by the battery that'll be easy enough to check. If you have a resistor wire, then you have to test between the coil and starter. Good luck with that. If either of those were bad I don't think it would start with a jumpered setup.
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dogleg5  



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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 5:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You took the relays apart then nad closed the contacts or .. how did you bypass the relay with it in place
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winddude  



Joined: 15 Jan 2020
Posts: 50
Location: Vancouver Island

PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 5:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dogleg5 wrote:
You took the relays apart then nad closed the contacts or .. how did you bypass the relay with it in place


Sorry, I don't get the difference between that and jumping the relay, just forcing the same circuit closed in 2 different ways
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winddude  



Joined: 15 Jan 2020
Posts: 50
Location: Vancouver Island

PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 5:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dogleg5 wrote:
That section 15 has to be wrong. It tells you to do the same thing twice and gives two different values. Either that or I'm dense. If you have a ballast resistor by the battery that'll be easy enough to check. If you have a resistor wire, then you have to test between the coil and starter. Good luck with that. If either of those were bad I don't think it would start with a jumpered setup.


K, glad it's not just me. lol. I have the resistor wires.
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dogleg5  



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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 5:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Exactly, BUT, if forcing the contacts closed inside the relay works then the relay is bad...even if it is new. My bad rely works with contacts closed my new relay works fine as it is. I'm probably not explaining myself well here. You're looking for the problem outside of the relay: I'm looking for it inside the relay. Maybe there's a value that has to be met to get the relay to close (or open, whatever), but I don't know what that would be. But as easy as it is to pop off the cover and do as I suggest would at least narrow it down to that or another bad relay. Is there supposed to be a certain voltage to the relay when the ignition is turned on? I'd check that. (Sorry if you already addressed that).
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winddude  



Joined: 15 Jan 2020
Posts: 50
Location: Vancouver Island

PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 5:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



Acording to the wiring diagram it makes sense the wires going to terminal 15 would be 1ohm and 1.5ohms.

Could someone please test the resistance across their coil, the 2 small terminals, and let me know. I maybe suspect it's my coil, no parts stores locally have them, and it seems I would have to order it in, so I would like to know before I start throwing parts at it.
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dogleg5  



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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 5:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it were the coil bypassing the relay wouldn't fix it. Still wouldn't start; no spark.
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winddude  



Joined: 15 Jan 2020
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Location: Vancouver Island

PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dogleg5 wrote:
If it were the coil bypassing the relay wouldn't fix it. Still wouldn't start; no spark.


I was thinking it might not be getting the correct signal from terminal 1 on the coil. I don't know how sophisticated the coil is, or how to test it, I seem to be getting a pulsing voltage while it's cranking at the relay board.

I tried wedging the gate closed on the relay, yes pump runs, But all I can figure that tells me is that terminal 87 and 30 on the fuel pump relay board are working.
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winddude  



Joined: 15 Jan 2020
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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One thing I'm thinking is there is this additional relay away from the board, looks spliced into the group of wires going into the ecm, one red wire from the other side of the splice with a female terminal isn't connected to anything.



Spliced into the harness going to the ecm. (note should say ecm not ignition module)


Red/Black and Black/Green actually connected to the fuel pump fuse. Red wire not connected to anything. The wires go into the harness and don't come out towards the mystery relay connector. As far as I can tell only the fuel pump and warm up regulator and air valve should be off that fuse.



Not sure if this could be related, or any idea what it might be for.


Last edited by winddude on Wed May 06, 2020 12:27 pm; edited 6 times in total
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dogleg5  



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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have no idea on that relay.

Ok, so you closed those contacts inside the relay and the pump ran; did the car start and run?
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winddude  



Joined: 15 Jan 2020
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Location: Vancouver Island

PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dogleg5 wrote:

Ok, so you closed those contacts inside the relay and the pump ran; did the car start and run?

Yes and yes.
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dogleg5  



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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK. If it were me I'd get another relay.
Unless someone else knows more about this (I'm sure there is); hopefully they'll jump in.
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winddude  



Joined: 15 Jan 2020
Posts: 50
Location: Vancouver Island

PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dogleg5 wrote:
OK. If it were me I'd get another relay.
Unless someone else knows more about this (I'm sure there is); hopefully they'll jump in.

That was my initial thinking, I've tried to 2 new relay from my local parts store, and with both it won't start or turn on the pumps. I thought it would be pretty unlikely 2 new relays from the parts store wouldn't work. However, I ordered another one from dr911.ca in Vancouver.
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dogleg5  



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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could return the two bad ones?
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