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S2 931 EFI Conversion DIY
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mendoraf002  



Joined: 01 Jun 2018
Posts: 4
Location: Pasco, WA USA

PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2020 5:52 am    Post subject: S2 931 EFI Conversion DIY Reply with quote

Megasquirt 1981 931 DIY
Due to the advice of several people, I will be only converting the vehicle to EFI at this moment. I will use the OEM system to provide spark. I will provide part numbers (incase the links stop working). I ended up using Honda Fuel Rails and Injectors due to their availability at my junkyard and online.

Link to Word Document https://drive.google.com/file/d/1imXplVvla3yW_kzw3ev1j7ofjJ9hRfzW/view?usp=drivesdk

STEP 1: GATHER RESOURCES
Sensors:
GM 3/8 NPT Water Temp Sensor with pigtail. (10045847) (ACDelco 213-52)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GBTBCD4

Original Air Temp Sensor or you can use a GM NPT 3/8 one (ACDelco 213-190).
https://www.amazon.com/25036751-25037225-Temperature-Assembly-Response/dp/B07TFD4NQS

GM Throttle Position Sensor with Pigtail. (88984165) (ACDelco 213-1550) I would recommend you get a different GM or Bosch sensor (0280122001) because the one I am using needs slight modification for clearance with the intake manifold because the pigtail points down.
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-213-1550-Original-Equipment-Throttle/dp/B000C9HWPK

Wideband 02 Sensor AEM UEGO 30-4110 (Sensor and Gauge)
https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-UEGO-Ratio-Gauge/dp/B00N3VGPYS

Tools:
3/8 NPT Tap: Harbor Freight was the only place I could find them off the shelf and work great.
13-Piece Wood Spade Bit Set, Walmart, will be using 5/8, 9/16.
US Standard Drill Bit Set
Metric Tap N Die Set, will only use the Taps.
Drill Press
Metal Working Tools: Files, Grinder, Vice etc.
T55 Torx Bit
Bubble Flare Tool
Digital Multimeter
Electrical (soldering iron, spade connectors, waterproof heatshrink, Automotive Wiring (glx), tape, etc.)

EFI Hardware:
Honda 2.2L Fuel Rail (F22/H22), Compatible Cars: 92-96 (Accord/ Prelude S, Si, VTEC), 94-97 (Odyssey) 96-01 (Prelude SH, VTEC) – I will be using the Accord billet aluminum one as it has a flatter profile of an F22B. Go ahead, grab the supply and return lines attached to the rail as well as the FPR.
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator AEM 25-300BK, I will first try to do fueling with the OEM FPR
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YXCT3W/
Several Plastic Fuel Injector Sleeves (63133555) to adapt to the fuel injectors OR take the heads to get the injector ports widened OR M24x1.5 Counter sunk plugs machined to adapt to the fuel injectors (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-M6-M24-Metric-Male-Countersunk-End-Plug-Internal-Hex-Head-Socket-Fitting-304/322743580759).
300cc or larger high impedance fuel injectors (EV1 Type), both are from the same company and have the same dimensions.
https://www.amazon.com/440cc-Injector-Civic-Integra-ACURA/dp/B07FHYCZJV
I used these 550cc ones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FLYBQCB/
Individual EV1 Connectors or Honda injector wiring harness.
Brass Fittings: 3/8in FLR – ¼in MIP (preferably with 90 degree bend) , 1/4in MIP Female-Female, 1/4in MIP Male-5/16in BARB, Yellow Teflon Tape.

Megasquirt:
I got all my stuff second hand from Facebook Market Place local and ebay. The V3 board had some voltage issues getting to some sensors so after a week back and forth with websales@diyautotune we were able to get the board fixed and working properly. Proceed with caution if buying used. I paid $350 for a new secondhand Megasquirt, DB37 Connector, and AEM Wideband. I bid on a MS Relay Board on eBay, got it for $75 shipped. I used the Relay Board to get rid of the expensive OEM fuel pump relay and to make wiring straight forward.

All these parts can be purchased at www.diyautotune.com

MS2 Extra MegaSquirt 2 EMS Stand Alone (Mine is V3, new one is V3.57) Reading reviews they are very similar so I would stick with the cheaper V3.

MS Relay Board (Optional), FP relays are around $70 so this is worth it for that reason alone and the time that is saved.

MS Wiring Harness – Depending on what route you go. If you do get the relay board you have a few options: PNP Relay Cable $89, 8ft wiring harness and additional DB37 Connector $83+Connector, MS 24” Harness and DB37 Connector. Mine came with the 24”. If you are not a decent solderer you can order a terminal board (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076MK1419). I used this on one end of my cable when I was having voltage problems with the MS2. It’s easier to troubleshoot but takes up more real-estate.

DB9-USB Adapter or Cable. Mine came with a cable. It works great. DIY suggests the cable come with a genuine FTDI chipset if you go that route. They have the adapter in their online store.

Automotive Wiring. If you get the 8ft wiring harness in conjunction with the relay board you can save money, as you can cut the harness short and have 6+ feet of wiring left over to run to your engine bay.

I ordered Automotive Cross Linked wire off amazon.

Software:
Tuner Studio by EFI Analytics. Still researching versions.
Using a Microsoft Surface Pro 6

STEP 2: TEST YOUR SENSORS
Sensor Calibrations:
Megasquirt allows a wide range of sensors and they must first be tested so that Megasquirt can interpret their values correctly. The following will apply to your temperature sensors. You need a minimum of 3 values of resistance in ohms for the sensors to work. I tested resistance at room temperature, ice water, and boiling water. Have a thermometer handy so you can measure the water’s temperature. Keep each sensor in the water for around 3 minutes. Dip the sensors in actively boiling water, if you pour the water in a cup, it will cool down quickly and your measurements will be off. Here were my results:
924 Sensor Calibration
(Ohms) Low (32F) Medium (69F) High (210F)
GM Coolant 5.567 k 2.265 k 0.191 k
GM Air Intake 8.700 k 3.215 k 0.181 k
Porsche Air Intake 15.280 k 5.000 k 0.326 k

Bench Test you Megasquirt
Connect your Megasquirt following their hardware guide. This will vary dependent on if you used the relay board or not. Hook your sensors up based on the wiring diagram. Attached is an image of mine with the relay board (Pin 19 on the harness should be spliced into and be grounded). After everything is hooked up, power it up and connect it to a car battery. Connect it to your computer after you install Tuner Studio Lite, (you can pay for the full version after you verify things are working). This step is where I found out my TPS and Injector Bank 2 were not registering in tuner studio. After troubleshooting all my inputs and outputs worked.

[img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipPxSOMxlLIPQoFleRjfI9mUnvVaZrlBiksmEGk6?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR.jpg[/img]

We are only testing that things are working; we can calibrate later when things are in the car.

To test the injectors go to CAN Bus / Test Modes -> Output Test Mode – Inj / Spk. There you can test Injector Banks 1 & 2. Here were my settings:
To test TPS go to Tools -> Calibrate TPS. Spin the sensor to the left and click get current on closed; there should be a current value. Spin the sensor to the right and click get current on Full Throttle; there should be a different current value.

To test MAP, connect a hose to the MAP sensor under the MS2 board. Blow on it. If it’s not reading go to Tools > Calibrate MAP / Baro; Megasquirt kits are usually supplied with a MPX4250AP sensor.

To test temperature sensors just rub them or blow on them. Your warmth should raise the values in Tuner Studio. Don’t expect them to be accurate at this point. We will plug in the calibration numbers after they are in the car.

I won’t be testing the O2 Sensor input. I will assume that will work, it will be the blue output wire on the AEM.

STEP 3: 931 MODIFICATIONS
Modifications
Water Temp Sensor:
Remove the coolant flange from the rear side of the head (047103093B). Remove the Temperature Time Switch (043903163A) and drill the hole out with the 9/16th bit, I used a paddle bit, don’t go all the way through. Tap with the 3/8th NPT bit and inset the GM coolant sensor.

[img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipN4QhuQj0AnPv4_TnDnucVKpz4o6xwYbvqiewZO?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR[/img]
[img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipOs9yGbUiVJZTMfL-xn34jvGajzA1QFnzheF8Hw?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR[/img]
[img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipNvM6D14g7U8g2dOmryP_pINuLkPyElWpWRWc-K?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR[/img]

TPS: Remove the TPSwitch from the 931 Throttle Body. Cut 1.5mm off of the Throttle shaft. Create a aluminum or Plexiglas adapter for the TPS that accepts the TPS of your choice. Test to see if you have full range in the TPS orientation. Test TPS resistance for good measure with Closed and Open Throttle. Trace out your current throttle switch to use as a template.

[img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipOaCyoqFm192e18S5Hy3v5CgRyfrtOOor1bjDzf?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR[/img]
[img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipMFQrVXGwBsdQKNFKGI3ERbZxKDoWCFJ2pn-45K?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR[/img]

Air Temp Sensor: No modification will be needed when using the OEM Air Intake Temp Sensor. If using a GM one, drill and tap to the correct size where your old one was or where your overboost switch (93060610100) is at in the charge pipe. If removing the overboost switch, ground the wire.

AFR O2 Sensor: The AEM Wideband O2 sensor is the same size as the OEM one so just screw in the wideband sensor.

Injector Sleeves:
I would recommend you order the injectors you will be using prior to doing this step as I made injector sleeves for the OEM Honda injectors and they did not fit the aftermarket 550cc ones I ordered. One benefit to the aftermarket injectors was that the injector sleeves were super easy to create. The down side was that they were overall taller, so I had to grind down the fuel rail.

Use a drill press and press vice for maximum accuracy, 5/8” wood spade bit, 25/64 drill bit, grinder/file, torch, and a T55 Torx Bit.
Modify your 5/8” spade bit by cutting most of the tip off, you only want about 2-3mm to stick out. This will determine the thickness of the injector sleeve at the bottom. Too thin and your sleeve will be too weak to screw in and out, too thick and your fuel rail will sit to high.

Next, taper the top outer edges of the spades using a file so that the spade bit can self-center itself into the sleeve.
[img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipMw_XY4dTb5Q7ttold_r96_4Ptm8noMs5BijM7w?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR
[/img]

Put the injector sleeve into the vice; be careful not to overtighten. You’ll need to grab the injector sleeve with one hand as you are drilling because it will spin and damage the outer threads. Drill down until the spade bit bottoms out on the vice. Repeat on all the sleeves.
Next, drill the center hole larger with a bit that matches your injector tip, in this case a 25/64” bit.
Connect the T55 Torx to the drill press. Heat it up. Center your injector sleeve and use the power of heat to press the T55 Torx into the injector sleeve. This will allow you to screw in and unscrew the sleeve into your cylinder head.

[img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipPGe9YOWsmvnt1lN5Td_jTqfpptHazdsEtjNuCo?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR[/img]
[img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipNXbF94_OmRhlUrZDKlIHWb7tjxOR8t4_2sVMKJ?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR[/img][img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipMkka0_k1JicMi7PPjQzzoisf8H6sEe1p6wVDVf?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR[/img]

Clean up the plastic and test fit your injectors with the O-rings; you will notice they are very snug. Easy Peasy!

!!Before installing the sleeves into your cylinder head, be sure the threads in the head are very clean, last thing you want is for a sleeve to get stuck!! It happened with my first version.

Fuel Rail:
Put your injectors in the car now. Install your fuel rail. When using the aftermarket injectors it made the fuel rail sit up higher so I had to grind off part of the top of the rail. I installed the charge pipe, marked its width on the rail and grinded it down about 3-4mm. Be careful not to grind to far down as you’ll puncture the capillary.
[img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipNwhcajbh8MSqZOCkOO783zF-wsZrXYWIoKPDRv?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR[/img]

Fuel Rail Bracket:

Cut your bracket using a grinder. If using steel, you don’t have to score the metal in the steps below.
Drill the bracket’s top fuel rail holes using a ¼ drill bit.
Score the aluminum using a chisel or flathead screwdriver and bend the tabs 90 degrees.
[img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipO9Q7m0l9KmbpNvvPLVw2CHERob9MrifrUc8qq-?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR[/img][img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipNOB-FrAXWoGVEAc6iMnKIFewpVWj1Ae3b-rxvH?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR[/img]

Score the tabs on the opposite side and bend the tabs 45 degrees. Be careful not to over bend because aluminum likes to break when bending back. This happened to me and I had to weld my tabs back on.
Lay your bracket on the fuel rail, with the tabs next to the manifold bolts. Mark the horizontal center of bolts on the tabs. Next, lightly screw your bracket into the fuel rail and mark the vertical center of the manifold bolts. Drill your holes where these two lines meet and you are done.
[img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipNt-BaO4X2Oh15EHln8Fenp93SP4KRTVeEkt9qj?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR[/img]
Check for fitment.

Fuel Lines in the Engine Bay
Detach the supply and return fuel lines from under the brake booster. Remove the fuel lines and fuel filter that are under your windshield.

Being careful not to kink the fuel lines but using a lot of strength and patience, you will bend the fuel lines under the brake booster to point to the fuel rail. You want to make sure you have clearance with your manifold.
[img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipM6KaRaW0Bcgvvq_fZOG3adgIXDiTjGZ0-DmQ7R?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR[/img]

Grab the old fuel lines from your CIS system, the ones that are plastic that go from your hard lines into/out from the fuel distributor. You’ll need both ends of the supply line and the hard line side of the return line. Screw the hard line ends onto the hard lines under your brake booster. Install the supply banjo fitting on to the fuel rail. [img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipPkjhHuWwR6TrRH-XHY2lN1E9u9yRQBRfpmsp_7?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR[/img]

Modify the Honda metal fuel return line like on the right. Drill and tap the fuel rail so that you can fix the line in place.
[img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipNyeomXGTRq28ID3pVAZAcZvjhVlKAPheec-ZXN?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR[/img]

Finally, fill in the gaps with preferably SAE J30 R9 fuel line. The front is now all plumbed.
[img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipNt-BaO4X2Oh15EHln8Fenp93SP4KRTVeEkt9qj?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR[/img]

Fuel Filter Rear Relocation
We will be reusing the supply fuel line that connects from under the brake booster to the fuel pump. You can also go and buy some but I was unable to find any locally.
Straighten roughly 1 foot of the line and cut it. Make sure both fittings are on the line and bubble flare the end. Using the Female-Female adapter that came from under the booster, connect it to one end of the line and tighten the shit out of it so you can confident it’s sealed.

Go to the rear of the car and remove your fuel accumulator as well as both soft lines. Connect your 1ft line to the line above your transmission. Bend the end downward towards the accumulator location.
[img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipOmFM6D_We8lY_TvP5711RHy2Lywy6TqJO8kIib?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR[/img]

Grab your fuel filter inlet fitting and remove about 2-3mm off the hexagonal end. This will shorten it and allow the brass flare fitting to touch and seal the inside of it. Screw them in together and tighten the shit out of them so the brass flare takes the conical shape of the fuel fitting. Do not use Teflon tape here; the threads are not what will keep this from leaking.
[img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipN6hwNQTNg3KISWo3RFFKHmiiHdtF9VneUH_oRD?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR[/img]

Grab your other brass fittings and connect them together, use Teflon tape here, no less than 4 layers. Whip out the Honda supply fuel line with the double banjo fittings. Cut the hose from the side that has the welded tabs. Stick the cut hose end in boiling water and inset the brass barb into it.

[img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipPaFKPNjn4HNl_0L0hi0kLY9UePxeeEJTX7xYDN?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR[/img]

To install the fuel filter, first screw in the brass fittings on the fuel filter and tighten. Next, install the banjo to the fuel pump. Finally, connect the fuel filter outlet to the 1ft hard line we made earlier.
Supply power to the fuel pump, check for leaks and listen to make sure fuel is returning to the tank.
Make a brace to hold the fuel pump.

Wiring

Injector Harness
Create an injector harness using the Honda one off the junk yard.
All injectors share the same +12v wire/s. Wire injectors 1/4 to share a ground and 2/3 to share a ground. Connect one ground to Inj Bank 1 and the other to 2.

[img]https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNKIQMxR9xBgpTLJDKhrzc-WPvcbKZnDRpkx5bq2EscCRuv16gvjK_1gYd4Rkz1hA/photo/AF1QipOEt1hqcgg7XCvC-f_lyQxBpEMRc0dhmvqDDpaE?key=TTdVa1lEb0JERG45bW5iZ3pNYVpGVFZMQXYtNDBR[/img]



To Be Continued...
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joewest  



Joined: 06 Oct 2005
Posts: 197
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2020 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice write-up! I am doing something very similar on my '79 N/A with an Eaton M62 supercharger. Hit me up when you are near Portland for a beer (and so I can shamelessly pick your brain...)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mua2zeV8zLs5DUgE9
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'79 924 Track Prepared (currently under supercharger upgrade)
'80 931 Daily Driver
"The number of posts in my profile may represent the number of times I have screwed something up...and admitted it here."
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mendoraf002  



Joined: 01 Jun 2018
Posts: 4
Location: Pasco, WA USA

PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2020 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's next level! Do you have a CNC machine, the supercharger brackets look amazing. I'll have to hit you up, I usually only make it out for IKEA.

Will you be using Megasquirt and ford edis for your spark?
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joewest  



Joined: 06 Oct 2005
Posts: 197
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2020 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks!

I have steel plate laser cut at a local shop, then weld them up here at home.

Ford EDIS and Megasquirt for sure. There is strong data on the DIYAutotune forums with this configuration.
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'79 924 Track Prepared (currently under supercharger upgrade)
'80 931 Daily Driver
"The number of posts in my profile may represent the number of times I have screwed something up...and admitted it here."
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8353
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2020 2:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome, thanks for sharing... this should help me get the ball rolling on my conversion...
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Vaughan Scott
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'79 924 #77 ITB racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype
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mendoraf002  



Joined: 01 Jun 2018
Posts: 4
Location: Pasco, WA USA

PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2020 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you go my route and not drill the head, but instead make sleeves, order them from autohausAz, they are around a dollar + shipping. I ordered around 30.
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8353
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 2:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got some from, I think it was 034 Motorsport, a while back, should be the droid I need...

Part # was 034-106-3002, is explicitly for converting CIS to EFI, has a nice o-ring seal at the bottom, thread is 22x1.5mm. But I think those would only fit the NA... I got a different part for the 931, which IIRC has a larger or different thread?

Hmmm, now I can't find that...
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Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 ITB racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2079
Location: MI

PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

12-62-1-747-281 BMW water temp sensor fits the 931 water housing on back of head with no drilling/tapping and I have the calibration #s..
Works great for me..

My MS controls the stock rad fans off this sensor too and I never get hot even with stock rad and fans..

I also have a pretty good TPS solution for S1 931 big bore TB replacement from a VW with a TPS but still needs slight modification..
This requires shortening the main throttle shaft, drilling for a pin, grinding to mate to the TPS, reengineering the return spring a bit, and installing a ported vacuum port..
TB has a GREAT intake side vac port though perfect for a BOV and MAP hookup..

GM IAT/MAT I would recommend putting right after your IC in your piping.. NOT on the intake... <heat soak
Lessons learned..

After all that work installing EFI OP I hope you are installing an IC and shooting for some decent power #s..

I am more mindset on going with GM LS coils (coil near plug, onboard igniters) with a crank pickup than going for EDIS..
I am still on stock S1 ignition though for now.. Nice and safe..
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80 Turbo - Slightly Modified
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mendoraf002  



Joined: 01 Jun 2018
Posts: 4
Location: Pasco, WA USA

PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 2:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

@924RACR I was looking at the 034 Motorsport ones but they were NLA. The NA and 931 have the same injector sleeve threads.

@Fasteddie313 Thats a good reference for the temp sensor, i will add it to my document in case someone doesn't want to drill and tap. I plan on controlling my radiator fans off FIDLE too but I'll incorporate that after I can get the car running.

The TPS I used was direct fit on the s2 TB, it just needed that bracket made (3 holes) and the shaft shortened. The s2 TB has 2 vacuum ports.

Im using the factory S2 IAT sensor and location as its also supposed to control timing advance.

I was going put an intercooler, but at this point I might just up the PSI to 10 to match the euro spec cars. I can alsways modify and retune later.

I have all the EDIS parts except the trigger wheel, but at this time i'll be using the stock S2 ignition.
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safe  



Joined: 18 Mar 2017
Posts: 186
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

924RACR wrote:
I got some from, I think it was 034 Motorsport, a while back, should be the droid I need...

Part # was 034-106-3002, is explicitly for converting CIS to EFI, has a nice o-ring seal at the bottom, thread is 22x1.5mm. But I think those would only fit the NA... I got a different part for the 931, which IIRC has a larger or different thread?

Hmmm, now I can't find that...


They don't fit, at least not in my NA. The thread is M24 1.5 in my head.

I have a set of the 034 bungs, so I tried...

Adding: Not a very complicated part someone with a 3d printer should be able to print a set, I tried but my printer sucks.
I had the idea of making them from aluminum stock, I think its doable with quite basic tools (drill press and a M24 die)
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Joma  



Joined: 28 Nov 2016
Posts: 9
Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
They don't fit, at least not in my NA. The thread is M24 1.5 in my head.

I have a set of the 034 bungs, so I tried...

Adding: Not a very complicated part someone with a 3d printer should be able to print a set, I tried but my printer sucks.
I had the idea of making them from aluminum stock, I think its doable with quite basic tools (drill press and a M24 die)


i have used these injector bungs for my EFI conversion,
had to slightly trim the edges a bit in order to fit them properly.
they are the same thread size as the head.
and perfect for new injectors
Part nr: 058 133 555
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924 80 with 931 S2 engine and efi
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safe  



Joined: 18 Mar 2017
Posts: 186
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joma wrote:
Quote:
They don't fit, at least not in my NA. The thread is M24 1.5 in my head.

I have a set of the 034 bungs, so I tried...

Adding: Not a very complicated part someone with a 3d printer should be able to print a set, I tried but my printer sucks.
I had the idea of making them from aluminum stock, I think its doable with quite basic tools (drill press and a M24 die)


i have used these injector bungs for my EFI conversion,
had to slightly trim the edges a bit in order to fit them properly.
they are the same thread size as the head.
and perfect for new injectors
Part nr: 058 133 555


Thanks!
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Shurick  



Joined: 15 May 2005
Posts: 508
Location: Russia, Moscow.

PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2020 4:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joma wrote:

i have used these injector bungs for my EFI conversion,
had to slightly trim the edges a bit in order to fit them properly.
they are the same thread size as the head.
and perfect for new injectors
Part nr: 058 133 555

+1 they fit after some sanding:

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WBR, Shurick
'79 931 -- intercooled K26-3060-6.10 turbo @ 1.2 bar, EFI+EDIS, 951S brakes, stripped interior, 951 look.
'86 924S -- R.I.P.
https://www.instagram.com/ru_pacecar/
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8353
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 6:34 am    Post subject: Stimulus Package Project Kickoff Reply with quote

Finally got off my own ass and ordered up the Microsquirt and temp sensors. Already have a WBO2 (Innovate) in the car. Still need to come up with a plan for the crank trigger/sensor, and likewise to plan out a TPS may have suitable on-hand already.
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Vaughan Scott
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'79 924 #77 ITB racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8353
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2020 7:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Joma and Shurick for the tip on the injector bushings, think that's what I was looking for. Will get some ordered up soon. Gotta pull the trigger on injectors before long, too.

Currently looking at Bosch P/N 0 280 155 892 - 365cc from the Audi TT, added bonus is it uses a long-nose design, which does a good job of matching the stock CIS injectors for getting into the air flow from the stock location. Was actually recommended to me by a colleague at (Bosch) Motorsport.

Would've been nice to grab that BMW sensor; that said, it's super-easy for me to just weld on fittings, so can stick a bung onto a flange somewhere about as easy as drilling/tapping for the larger GM sensor! We'll see what happens; putting it in the same spot as the Thermo Time Switch makes a lot of sense too.

Likewise not sure if I want to stick with the stock IAT; seems like function should be fine, except maybe I want the newer sensor and wiring quality.

I guess the one other thing that excites me is ignition integration; while in the long term I'll probably go the EDIS route, I see in the Microquirt documentation that it's entirely possible for the MS to control the stock ignition amplifier on the S2's fender - keeping that and the stock coil/distributor, at least for now for the purposes of getting up and running.

So while my stock S2 DITC ignition has been functional and I was planning on keeping it for a little while longer, I may decide to jump past this and go straight to full MS control of spark as well as fuel.

Hey, FastEddie, feel like posting up that BMW sensor cal in this thread? Now that I see it's only $22USD on Amazon, and wiring will be simple since it's just the same typical connector as the injectors... hmmm, guess I should order up a bunch more of those connectors...
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Vaughan Scott
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'79 924 #77 ITB racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype
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