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no start/ restoration

 
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Boogieman28  



Joined: 11 Nov 2019
Posts: 13
Location: South Carolina

PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2019 4:01 am    Post subject: no start/ restoration Reply with quote

So starting off i am only 16 have a fair amount of knowledge of cars. Im more into domestic cars but ive decided to take on the challenge of a 1979 Porsche 924 base. It was my dads car 20 something years ago and he daily drove it and its been sitting ever since. So so far on the car i have replaced the exterior fuel pump and the in tank pump was bad so i bypassed it and just have the threaded part left. I have taken all the injectors out and had them sitting. I drained the tank and filled it with fresh gas and ive pushed all the seemingly old stuff through the system. I have replaced the fuel filter and cleaned the air bowl inside the fuel distributor. new spark plugs and plug wires and im getting good spark on all plugs. Have not messed with the timing as it shouldnt have changed. i have drained all the fluids in the radiator and replaced it with new changed the oil and filter. Now im left with a no start issue. when i first got it i started it off starting fluid and some gas in a spray bottle it would run off this for however long i would spray. Then when i got around to the new fuel pump it took a while to start but it would run and it ran pretty well. But having the car start was very intermittent sometimes it wont sometimes it will. Havent been able to start it in a while. Last time i ran it it ran pretty good just struggled revving which i think is caused by it sitting for so long. it has a brand new battery and it gets spark. Whenever i do try and crank the car and it wont start it has a terrible smell of gas coming from the engine area it floods the combustion chamber with so much i think that its to much fuel and its just flooding it. The injectors have a nice even spray and its completely clean fuel. Ive taken off the intake and cleaned it inside and out ive looked inside the warm up regulator and it is quite clean. Ive checked everything i seemingly can. if you guys have any tips on what else to change out in the car it will be a big help. The stench of gas is so bad and its been seeping down into the oil it smells like so ive changed it. im gonna put the intake and everything back on and try it then. Any ideas on other things to check or replace? Also if their is anything i could check while the intake is off that would be nice to know now. i appreciate the time this is my first post and it seems like somewhere ill be spending a lot of my time. Like i said the car ran for 30 something minutes without me doing anything but i turned it off for about 5 and it wouldnt start again.
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Nobbi  



Joined: 24 Aug 2006
Posts: 1379
Location: Germany

PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2019 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey,

could be that piston in the CIS that is stuck ocassionally. If you can get a second one you can give it a try. If not you can disasamble it carefully and clean it with alcohol.

good luck,

Nobbi
_________________
NA 924 - april/1977- 4-speed-audi gearbox.
500.000 km with fun.....and new toy:Porsche 944 S2 Cabriolet.Other car Daimler c-class cabby,brandnew..Plus : DEUTZ 4005 tractor Built 1969
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2019 7:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That or the cold start valve is sticking open and dumping fuel, or the control pressure is far too low..

You seem pretty smart and well mechanically inclined for a 16yo!
Welcome aboard and please post as much as you like, we will love to help you, and I think we can use some young blood around here..

But.. Maybe a bit better post formatting.. Throw some paragraph breaks into your block of texts please


I recommend you get a Haynes manual and a CIS pressure test kit http://www.specialtauto.com/node/18

And do a full CIS pressure test by the book..
Then you will be able to make it purrrfect
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Boogieman28  



Joined: 11 Nov 2019
Posts: 13
Location: South Carolina

PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2019 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry about that I’m new to this whole posting on forums generally problems are already figured out.
Buttttttt I’ve messed with the car more and I’ve noticed the arm that in the fuel dizzy gets stuck down and it is extremely hard to push up sometimes. When it gets stuck like this the fuel pump refuses to run. On a good note I’ve found a pretty decent parts car near me.

The car has dellortto carbs and has an al holbert widebody kit. Whoever messed with the car put 944 brakes suspension and transaxle in it. Apparently the internals of the engine are forged and the car has a cam headers and adjustable timing pulley and it runs suprisingly . I know it won’t be that fast compared to other vehicles but I’m sure it’ll be fun. This cars body is in ok shape not as good as mine so I’m gonna swap over the parts. The guy gave me an extra hood fenders alternators gauges brake caliper repair kit pedals center consoles master cylinders and just about everything to make a second car with. He only wants around 1k so I’m going to pick it up Saturday.

I’ve kept messing with the cis on my car and it’s been a pain so I’m leaning towards putting the carbs on mine because this cis is not a fun experience and for some reason I love carbs and the way the run and look on these 924s. When checking around the fuel dizzy i noticed some brown liquid and I’ve found out it’s coming from the large cloth line that runs back to the engine block I’ve been looking around and trying to find what it is but I have had no luck if you guys know what I’m talking about that’ll be a good help because I’m trying to figure out what I can bypass if I put the carbs on the car. The car is still getting way to much fuel for some reason I’ve bypassed the cold start valve and it’s still just way to much I’ve even bypassed the warm up regulator to see and nothing.

Whenever I crank it if I don’t get the throttle pressure just right it floods. So I’ve found a way to keep testing this by just pulling the fuel pump fuse and running all that flooded gas out and it floods so bad I can have a decent running car for 5 to 10 seconds and it idles good and everything until it runs out of fuel. When I do manage to get the car running I have to keep the rpms above 2.5k ish or else it’ll sputter down and die when it’s above those rpms it runs seemingly good to me. Sometimes it will idle but after running the idle gets sporadic and it will eventually start chugging down to 300 or 400 rpm and just die. I’ve leaned out the mixture ever so slightly and it still floods and I’ve got it back to stock now and it runs the same as before.

So my new plan is to get a fuel pressure regulator run the original pump and put the carbs on there and see how it runs and then go from there. If you have an idea on that braided hose or anything about putting carbs on these carbs please let me know. Oh and one more thing I have a long metal line that comes from the oil pan and runs up to my intake with a vacuum line to it I was just wondering what this is and if I do decide to run carbs will this be needed? I appreciate the time from everyone and sorry about that big block of text.
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2019 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Boogieman28 wrote:
Sorry about that I’m new to this whole posting on forums generally problems are already figured out.
Buttttttt I’ve messed with the car more and I’ve noticed the arm that in the fuel dizzy gets stuck down and it is extremely hard to push up sometimes. When it gets stuck like this the fuel pump refuses to run. On a good note I’ve found a pretty decent parts car near me.

The car has dellortto carbs and has an al holbert widebody kit. Whoever messed with the car put 944 brakes suspension and transaxle in it. Apparently the internals of the engine are forged and the car has a cam headers and adjustable timing pulley and it runs suprisingly . I know it won’t be that fast compared to other vehicles but I’m sure it’ll be fun. This cars body is in ok shape not as good as mine so I’m gonna swap over the parts. The guy gave me an extra hood fenders alternators gauges brake caliper repair kit pedals center consoles master cylinders and just about everything to make a second car with. He only wants around 1k so I’m going to pick it up Saturday.

I’ve kept messing with the cis on my car and it’s been a pain so I’m leaning towards putting the carbs on mine because this cis is not a fun experience and for some reason I love carbs and the way the run and look on these 924s. When checking around the fuel dizzy i noticed some brown liquid and I’ve found out it’s coming from the large cloth line that runs back to the engine block I’ve been looking around and trying to find what it is but I have had no luck if you guys know what I’m talking about that’ll be a good help because I’m trying to figure out what I can bypass if I put the carbs on the car. The car is still getting way to much fuel for some reason I’ve bypassed the cold start valve and it’s still just way to much I’ve even bypassed the warm up regulator to see and nothing.

Whenever I crank it if I don’t get the throttle pressure just right it floods. So I’ve found a way to keep testing this by just pulling the fuel pump fuse and running all that flooded gas out and it floods so bad I can have a decent running car for 5 to 10 seconds and it idles good and everything until it runs out of fuel. When I do manage to get the car running I have to keep the rpms above 2.5k ish or else it’ll sputter down and die when it’s above those rpms it runs seemingly good to me. Sometimes it will idle but after running the idle gets sporadic and it will eventually start chugging down to 300 or 400 rpm and just die. I’ve leaned out the mixture ever so slightly and it still floods and I’ve got it back to stock now and it runs the same as before.

So my new plan is to get a fuel pressure regulator run the original pump and put the carbs on there and see how it runs and then go from there. If you have an idea on that braided hose or anything about putting carbs on these carbs please let me know. Oh and one more thing I have a long metal line that comes from the oil pan and runs up to my intake with a vacuum line to it I was just wondering what this is and if I do decide to run carbs will this be needed? I appreciate the time from everyone and sorry about that big block of text.


Don't be sorry, it was just a tip to get more readers of your posts..

If you "bypass" the WUR warm up regulator then that will make you extremely rich!!
The higher the pressure it holds the leaner.. Bypass, ad in no pressure drop = extremely rich..

Also, the pressure that resists the plate is created by the fuel pressure and controlled by the warm up regulator..
So with no fuel pump running the plate won't want to spring back to its resting position as egarly..

I understand wanting to put the carbs on your car, but how bad really is that holbart car?

$1000 for a holbart widebody?
That should be saved..
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80 Turbo - Slightly Modified
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Boogieman28  



Joined: 11 Nov 2019
Posts: 13
Location: South Carolina

PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2019 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The car had rust in a lot of areas the main parts are around the windshield and in the battery box area where most of them get the rust it’s a 1977 924 which the guy says it’s the 945th 924 in the United States but I’m gonna look at it more after I get it but the bottom of the doors are pretty bad with rust and the fenders also are almost completely gone at the bottom. The rear section isn’t to bad put near the bottom of the back quarter it’s being eaten through. I for sure will try my best to save this car I’m not gonna hack it up or anything but I mainly just want the running gear stuff for my car and then put all of my stuff on the Holbert car and maybe turn it into a full track car one day
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