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Replacing the Rear Main Seal??
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K-Roll931  



Joined: 08 Jul 2017
Posts: 73
Location: Southfield, MI

PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 12:23 pm    Post subject: Replacing the Rear Main Seal?? Reply with quote

Having done the oil pan gasket on my '80 931, it seems I've discovered a potentially leaking RMS as a result. Unfortunately, there seems to be little to no information, instructions, or visual aid in explaining how to this job.

Can anyone give me an idea of the process, what needs to be done, and how to do it? I want to educate myself on this job as best I can before I get to it; and assume this job should be the same on all 2.0L cars.
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Kenodog  



Joined: 25 Jun 2003
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Location: Vancouver,B.C.

PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brother, that sucks. My advice, pull the motor and do it all, or at least all you can afford. These engines leak like sieves over time, it's rare to find one that doesn't. The rear main can't be done in-situ so there is little choice..




Leigh
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K-Roll931  



Joined: 08 Jul 2017
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Location: Southfield, MI

PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kenodog wrote:
Brother, that sucks. My advice, pull the motor and do it all, or at least all you can afford. These engines leak like sieves over time, it's rare to find one that doesn't. The rear main can't be done in-situ so there is little choice..




Leigh


Unfortunately, pulling the engine will be a no-go. No space for an engine puller...Gonna have to do this the hard way according from everything I've researched over the last two hours. Pull the trans, drop the rear suspension, slide the torque tube rearwards, remove the bellhousing and I think this car is either my spirit animal or the death of me.

I'm gonna owe Vaughan a lotta beers for help on this one.
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Kenodog  



Joined: 25 Jun 2003
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rear suspension ? Remove the snailshell, pull the tt back, drop the bell housing and the remover the oil pan which *sometimes* means lowering the cross member. Then maybe...

But, if it doesn't go together perfectly it may still leak. That's the issue I have had in the past with doing things like that. It is just so damned hard to get all of those surfaces clean enough to get the proper seal.

Hats off to you for trying though. Let us know how it goes !




Leg
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K-Roll931  



Joined: 08 Jul 2017
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Location: Southfield, MI

PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh right, the suspension can stay, thank goodness. The rest of this will be hell though. We're gonna make this work one way or another, and I'll make sure to document this process. Before I know it, this car will basically be brand-spankin new!
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jacobroufa  



Joined: 18 Nov 2016
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 12:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm curious how you have the capacity to remove the torque tube and trans and rear suspension but not the engine? o_O

Good luck!
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CÚdric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 1994
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 1:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did the clutch a while ago, which is more or less the same work. I did it with engine still in place, gearbox(snail) still attached to the torque tube, suspension all in place. Although I took of the drive shafts and gear linkage so I could slide the torque tube back.

Then it was just a matter of removing exhaust, waste gate, starter motor and all that stuff. I think i removed coil etc from above to reach some of the screws on the bell housing. And i think i lowered the engine by backing out the nuts on the motor mounts. Then I could remove the bell housing and do job. It sounds easy but its a b**** of a job to do, took me a day to disasemble and another full day in the garage to put it together again, everything is so tightly packaged. Many new swear words will pop out, but its doable. It really really helps if you are two people when the ttube and engine are supposed to be mated again, took me ages to do since i was alone under the car.

I definitely prefer the engine out version, as you can do alot of other nice to do stuff at the same time, hoses, gaskets etc. But i jus thad the engine out so wasnt so keen on that.
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Kenodog  



Joined: 25 Jun 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 1:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CÚdric wrote:
I did the clutch a while ago, which is more or less the same work. I did it with engine still in place, gearbox(snail) still attached to the torque tube, suspension all in place. Although I took of the drive shafts and gear linkage so I could slide the torque tube back.

Then it was just a matter of removing exhaust, waste gate, starter motor and all that stuff. I think i removed coil etc from above to reach some of the screws on the bell housing. And i think i lowered the engine by backing out the nuts on the motor mounts. Then I could remove the bell housing and do job. It sounds easy but its a b**** of a job to do, took me a day to disasemble and another full day in the garage to put it together again, everything is so tightly packaged. Many new swear words will pop out, but its doable. It really really helps if you are two people when the ttube and engine are supposed to be mated again, took me ages to do since i was alone under the car.

I definitely prefer the engine out version, as you can do alot of other nice to do stuff at the same time, hoses, gaskets etc. But i jus thad the engine out so wasnt so keen on that.


*NEW* swear words ?! Amateur....

Yes, the work needed either way is about the same.But like Cedric says once the motor is out you get the benefit of being about to do the job properly the first time as well as replace / refurbish some of the other things that are not normally accessible.


Me
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Fifty50Plus  



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 4:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

While you have the flywheel off, replace the input shaft bearing.
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924RACR  



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 4:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually suspecting first to check and make sure there isn't a breather problem causing rear main to leak. Kinked/obstructed hose etc.
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K-Roll931  



Joined: 08 Jul 2017
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A slightly more extensive search for the cause of the leak revealed the distributor housing on the back of the head is leaking oil and dripping down to where I originally discovered the oil. I might not have torqued all three bolts tight enough, or the gasket failed, or something else. Gonna have to inspect further.
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure it isn't the oil pressure sender as they can really be a problem also. A distributor housing can easily be leak can easily be mistaken for the OPS.
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agreed.

Pretty sure we used the purple thread sealant on the OPS threads, so no worries there... but we were struggling to get the right bolts for that rear housing.

Trying to avoid having to pull the cam to replace the gasket again - firewall clearance usually prevents it from coming free otherwise.

And with the temps soon to hit single digits in the D, the last thing we want to be doing is teardown and trying to reset ignition timing etc...
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924RACR  



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2019 12:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Follow-up on this - leak fixed, not the rear main, nor a plugged breather, just the distributor housing not fully torqued. Just those pesky back bolts... torqued 'em yesterday with an assortment of flex-head ratchets etc, and she seems to have stopped leaking oil there.

Only remaining leak is one oil cooler hose, which probably got moved a little more than it wanted while the turbo was being removed/reinstalled. Though I don't blame Karl, to be sure - we found the old turbo drain hose was so hardened from age it split as we took it apart.

Which I guess does raise the question, if we should perhaps play it safe and replace both oil cooler hose sections, not just the one...

The one that's leaking is just weeping a modest amount of oil, from under one of the crimps...

Getting close to being ready to hit the road, though! Too bad the weather's not cooperating...
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Kenodog  



Joined: 25 Jun 2003
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2019 3:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If y'all need lines I have about 5 good sets. A set is yours for the shipping...





Leigh
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