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931 Tech To do list
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MOTANUL  



Joined: 19 Nov 2018
Posts: 214
Location: ROMANIA BUCHAREST

PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 5:39 am    Post subject: 931 Tech To do list Reply with quote

I have a big list of what should be done to the car (931).
If I put them all - it's too hard.

So I prefer to share them one by one.

1. First delimitation of colors at the door. On 931 Porsche bicolor version.
Does anyone have a picture of the color delineation on the door?? (including interior side).

A few pictures with an original 931 bicolor car should be enough to repaint properly.


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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 8868
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If i'm not mistaken, the way it was painted minerva blue is the original way.
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MOTANUL  



Joined: 19 Nov 2018
Posts: 214
Location: ROMANIA BUCHAREST

PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not 100% sure. I did not check -It is an area where I do not think it's properly painted.
Anyway - I need a confirmation.




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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If i'm not mistaken, this is the right way. The way your 931 was painted before was not far away from the factory way. Now it seems it needs a bit more color paint on the door interiors.








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MOTANUL  



Joined: 19 Nov 2018
Posts: 214
Location: ROMANIA BUCHAREST

PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 5:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The first problem is solved.
2. The worst of them. 931 clutch.
There are two clutch problems:
- The bearing from pressure plate makes noise (or other bearing)
- oil leak between engine and central transmission tube

I have information up to bearing from pressure plate.
After that, should be on the engine a shaft sealing ring (10B) and behind it a deep-groove ball bearing (10). diagram: http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=924-80-85&section=102-00


Somebody changed those parts related to the motor on 931 S1??


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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 6:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a disk brake cleaner spray and clean all that oil from the top-down.
Then observe in the next few drives/days where the oil is coming from.
I think the oil is coming from one of those oil lines and being splattered because of air currents under the car, a sealing washer may need replacement.

Or, it may be the rear main seal, case in which you need to either take the engine out or perhaps you can take the gearbox out and do the crank oil seal change that way, i never did such an operation so not sure if its possible to be done with the engine in.
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is possible, be cause i did it a couple of months ago. The gearbox can still be attached, but liinkage and drive shafts need to be demounted so the gearbox and torque tube can slide back. To fully get the clutch housing of i had lower the engine a little bit aswell. Its easily the worst job I've done on the car, real pain. It took me 2 full days. It would have gone much faster if i didn't do it myself, it took ages to get the torque tube aligned and back for example.
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MOTANUL  



Joined: 19 Nov 2018
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Location: ROMANIA BUCHAREST

PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the help.

The gear box will be out of the car. Also the torque tube out, shift mechanism out (I want to check it close - even changed some parts), exhaust out, clutch operating cylinder out.
For the second bearing and shaft sealing ring - I have questions:

It is necessary to dismantle the flywheel? Specialized tools are required?

I noticed that for alignment it would be necessary- or it took ages...
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MOTANUL  



Joined: 19 Nov 2018
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

morghen wrote:
Get a disk brake cleaner spray and clean all that oil from the top-down.

Or, it may be the rear main seal, case in which you need to either take the engine out or perhaps you can take the gearbox out and do the crank oil seal change that way, i never did such an operation so not sure if its possible to be done with the engine in.


Ref. oil leak - Everything is dry around. Clean oil comes from inside.

There are 2 oil seal (a big one deep inside the engine - it is not accessible) and a small one (more to the outside) who I think it can be Extracted-changed.
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MOTANUL wrote:
Thanks for the help.

The gear box will be out of the car. Also the torque tube out, shift mechanism out (I want to check it close - even changed some parts), exhaust out, clutch operating cylinder out.
For the second bearing and shaft sealing ring - I have questions:

It is necessary to dismantle the flywheel? Specialized tools are required?

I noticed that for alignment it would be necessary- or it took ages...


Taking the gearbox of isnt nessecary, but on the other hand makes it much easier to handle the torque tube when you do the alignment.

Its a good idea to change out the bushes in the gear linkage, it really makes shifting so nice. however, i havent found any good bushing for the shift linkage, the problem is described here (same bushing) with the oval holes:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/739464-shift-coupler-bushing-source.html

I have brass bushings now together with a short shifter, its a bit noisy sometimes, so in the future sometime i need to make some delrin ones. But the shifting is sooo good.

There is then the cup bushing and small bushings at the shift lever, change them while you are there. When everything is done the shifting feel will be excellent !

The flywheel need to go to acess the rear main seal, if you get the clutch housing of its an easy job.

The waste gate need to go aswell, be prepared to get new gaskets and screws/nuts while everything is of the car. I bought heat resistant screws and nuts from my local VW dealar, cheap and good.

Regarding alignment, when i once bought an s1 clutch kit i got an alignment tool in the kit, but in the last S2 kit i bought i didnt get one. It sure makes the proces alot easier, maybe morghen can 3d print one for you
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Johann  



Joined: 07 Aug 2016
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 10:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wasn’t able to get to the clutch with the gearbox in place in my ‘83 Turbo S2. This was due to the gearbox hitting the spare wheel well. Removing the gearbox also allows you to rebuild the shifting mechanism.
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MOTANUL  



Joined: 19 Nov 2018
Posts: 214
Location: ROMANIA BUCHAREST

PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have 3 dog leg shifting mechanism. ((including the one on the car)

The one on the car seems to have big play - to rebuild it is a must do. I think the best of them is this (from the images below).

Normal (original) in front of the shifting mechanism is a rubber bush that allows a lot of play. This one has something else that does not allow play.


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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 11:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I replaced the gearbox side bushings a couple of years ago with polyurethane bushings. The front one is still the factory one.
The G31 gearbox will never feel as precise as the Audi box, its just the design of the linkage. Perhaps rigid plastic bushings may make it feel more precise but i'm not sure its the right thing for comfort or gearbox longevity.
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I disagree on that one, ive never felt any Audi linkaged car feeling anywhere close as good as my shifter. The G31 linkage design is a better solution in my optinion, especially in the bends where you can see the shifter moving around on the audi linkage with the G forces. But everyone have their own experiences
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Fifty50Plus  



Joined: 28 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 2:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The first 924 race car I had used an Audi tranny. My new one uses the dogleg box. Both cars had new shifter bushings front and rear and upgraded rear mounts on the trannys. The Audi stick was a little sloppy and moved around during cornering. The dogleg box is very tight - I shift with my wrist instead of my whole arm. I much prefer the dogleg shift pattern as well as the limited movement.
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