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1980-931
Joined: 23 Jun 2018 Posts: 17 Location: New England
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Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 1:24 am Post subject: New 1980 931 owner |
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Hello all,
Gladly have been lurking this forum for some weeks. I have recently acquired a 1980 MY 931 out of Colorado. It appears largely untouch, stock, and as if most of its wear is from being parked outside under the Colorado sun.
I have some questions and since there is no build section here, I will also follow progress on renewing this car.
Issues:
- Dry rot to exterior seals, weather stripping, and faded window trims
- Rear exhaust smell from shrunken hatch gasket
- Rear gas smell from..... filler neck, tank, fuel shutoff..?
- Extremely old and stuck 3M "clear bra" is similar. Mostly baked on to the driver fender and doors.
- Previous color correct repaint needs some correcting/tweaking in spots
- Rear window released from front top
- Small spots of tiny dings (have already corrected some of these with PDR), limited to 3-4 total tiny spots
- Cracked dash/color off dash cap
- 4 lug spacers installed on front instead of back wheels? Makes back wheels look silly in the narrow shell
- Slight oil leak eminating from perhaps the oil cap, valve cover, or something in the turbo/oil filer area which has spread down the slanted block and towards the bellhousing (hoping a good wash will illuminate where this is coming from)
- 2nd gear grind - hoping to later ask some questions about repair parts
- Sloppy shifting
- Clock does not work - 12V is present
- Oil pressure pegs gauge - assuming bad sending unit as soon as I can find it
- Crsipy carpet (mainly in the back but axle hump between seats is crispy
- Driver mirror adjust not working
- Power antenna snags on retract
- One sunroof lock missing (the plastic front clasp that people want $$$ for)
- Hatch lock rods sometimes pop off
- Hatch struts are mounted opposite of each other (gas strut is flip flopped each side)
- Shifter boot base not attached to console
- No AC belt (issues unknown)
The good:
- Straight body
- Seemingly good running CIS
- Unmolested/unmodified for 38 years old
- Interior is pretty good shape
- Most things work (for a Porsche )
- Interesting herringbone interior (was holding out for my own Pasha car but they seem super rare in the US)
- No rust
My background - I have a 955TT and a 986. Am I super lurker on the subject of 924/944 and 928 so I am somewhat familiar with 1980's issues. Also active with PCA and my local chapter.
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1980-931
Joined: 23 Jun 2018 Posts: 17 Location: New England
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Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 1:33 am Post subject: |
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Removed [img width=666 height=500] sizing until I can remember how phpbb2 works. Sorry for large photos |
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Cedric
Joined: 27 Aug 2004 Posts: 2616 Location: Sweden
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Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 2:49 am Post subject: |
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Yeah, its really sad that there is no build thread part of this forum. Seems like a fairly good starting point, especially for a us car(which often are very rough). Unmolested is worth alot when you restore it, at least according to my experiences. Good luck with the restoration! _________________ 1980 924 Turbo
www.instagram.com/garagecedric/ |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 3:22 am Post subject: |
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1980-931 wrote: | Removed [img width=666 height=500] sizing until I can remember how phpbb2 works. Sorry for large photos |
It's a pain.. I resize them in imgur these days..
That sure is a great looking 931 you have there!!
It must have been in some hot sun, I see your interior door handle has a bit of a curve to it..
I have read a bit about complaints of exhaust smells.. Other than your hatch gasket you likely have a cracked manifold and I would look hard for other leaks around that area..
The ignition distributor housing and the oil press sender on the back of the head can also leak oil.. A pegged press gauge indicates to me the wire is off somewhere between the sender and the gauge, mine is off and pegged.. Also watch for heat shielding touching the sender contacts but that causes low readings.. Reach down by #4 exhaust runner off the head and around the back of the head low to find the sender, you can get it with an open end from there..
My 2nd gear grinds too..
v8carreragts wrote: | I didn't use the 931 synchronizers. I used P/N 915.302.302.06 for 1st gear. This is the part used on the G31/03. (Carrera GT) It is supposed to be a stronger synchro and it is also available everywhere.
I used 928 synchros for 2nd and 3rd P/N 928.302.302.31. These are also revised parts and available everywhere.
The last 2 digits or Porsche part numbers are the revision number so as you can see, these synchros have been revised a few times. |
You and I both probably need P/N 928.302.302.31
http://www.einmaligparts.com/Syncronizer-Ring19_p_98216.html
And their are a couple G31 rebuild threads you can search and find..
Sloppy shifting is the bushings on the shift linkage, which requires a trans drop..
I saw some stuff about replacing the capacitors in these clocks to fix them, like the old caps expire and fail..
All of your other small issues are small.. Even your big issues so far are small, so you are lucky.. Your interior is nice too..
If you end up really liking your 931 they are a pretty good candidate to tune up nearer to your 986's level semi-easily/cheaply so their is hope if you don't want to be stuck with a slow car..
The first thing I would do to your car really, despite how good you think it runs, is one obviously very thouroughly check for vacuum leaks and replace and braided cloth looking vacuum hoses still remaining.. Check the 90 from the compressor housing to the tube behind your timing belt.. And that hose that runs from the bottom of the AFM housing to the emissions valve in the drivers side rear underhood corner..
Then, either put a wideband on it and confirm good safe AFRs through boost, or do a good proper CIS pressure test and injector flow test as outlined in the haynes manual to make sure you aren't running good but piston melting lean.. I'd make sure it's running good before thrashing on it, with no intercooler, and it's a great way to get your head around CIS if you haven't yet..
Did anyone mention your timing belt yet?
It and the tensioner are super cheap and easy to do, but need done every 3 years/30k, and if it breaks the engine is an interference design so it crashes, so you should refresh that immediately if you haven't yet..
Welcome to the board.. _________________ 80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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bureau13
Joined: 07 Sep 2017 Posts: 480 Location: South Florida
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Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 11:44 pm Post subject: |
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Another thing to do, after you take care of some of the basic up-front stuff mentioned above, but definitely before you push it, is to get a boost gauge. It's up to you if you want to keep the stock look and just temporarily hook one up for diagnostic purposes, or if you want a permanent installation. I got my S2 a little under a year ago, and had no idea I was boosting to 15 or 16 psi! Yikes. _________________ -----------------------------------------
1982 931
1986.5 Silver 928S
2007 Hummer H3 (Daily Driver)
Past lives (I miss them all):
2004 RX-8 (Wrecked)
1993 RX-7 (Sold)
1987 RX-7 Turbo II (Sold)
1985 RX-7 GSL (Stolen) |
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morghen
Joined: 21 Jan 2005 Posts: 8886 Location: Romania
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Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 11:58 pm Post subject: |
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you need a set of floor mats _________________ https://www.the924.com |
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1980-931
Joined: 23 Jun 2018 Posts: 17 Location: New England
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Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 11:25 am Post subject: |
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Fasteddie313 wrote: |
That sure is a great looking 931 you have there!! |
Thanks, I had a bit a buyer's remorse when it arrived from the other coast and then realized I was being a bit harsh for a 38 YO car
Fasteddie313 wrote: |
The ignition distributor housing and the oil press sender on the back of the head can also leak oil.. A pegged press gauge indicates to me the wire is off somewhere between the sender and the gauge, mine is off and pegged.. Also watch for heat shielding touching the sender contacts but that causes low readings.. Reach down by #4 exhaust runner off the head and around the back of the head low to find the sender, you can get it with an open end from there..
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Great tips!!!
Fasteddie313 wrote: |
My 2nd gear grinds too..
v8carreragts wrote: | I didn't use the 931 synchronizers. I used P/N 915.302.302.06 for 1st gear. This is the part used on the G31/03. (Carrera GT) It is supposed to be a stronger synchro and it is also available everywhere.
I used 928 synchros for 2nd and 3rd P/N 928.302.302.31. These are also revised parts and available everywhere.
The last 2 digits or Porsche part numbers are the revision number so as you can see, these synchros have been revised a few times. |
You and I both probably need P/N 928.302.302.31
http://www.einmaligparts.com/Syncronizer-Ring19_p_98216.html
And their are a couple G31 rebuild threads you can search and find..
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Man, you are a life saver. I have been researching this for hours. I love that all this NLA talk turns into options for readily available parts.
Fasteddie313 wrote: | ]]
Sloppy shifting is the bushings on the shift linkage, which requires a trans drop..
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I've got the shifter side ones from Pelican already. If I drop the G31 for the synchro I will do all the other bushings at that time too.
Fasteddie313 wrote: |
If you end up really liking your 931 they are a pretty good candidate to tune up nearer to your 986's level semi-easily/cheaply so their is hope if you don't want to be stuck with a slow car.. |
Thanks! I think my goal is ROW spec which should put it near the 986 base in HP/lb. I don't really want to modify it outside of "stock" realm. I use the 986 for DE so I don't need to go CGT on it.
Fasteddie313 wrote: |
Then, either put a wideband on it and confirm good safe AFRs through boost, or do a good proper CIS pressure test and injector flow test |
I'm probably going to do a PLX multigauge link as I am resisting the urge to do standard injection and a megasquirt.
Fasteddie313 wrote: | Did anyone mention your timing belt yet?
It and the tensioner are super cheap and easy to do, but need done every 3 years/30k, and if it breaks the engine is an interference design so it crashes, so you should refresh that immediately if you haven't yet..
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It was changed 1500 miles ago or so but 5 years. The belt looks ok for the second but I have a kit in bound from Pelican just due to the age of the rubber.
Thank you so much for the advice and I'm looking forward to learning more! |
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1980-931
Joined: 23 Jun 2018 Posts: 17 Location: New England
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Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 11:28 am Post subject: |
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bureau13 wrote: | Another thing to do, after you take care of some of the basic up-front stuff mentioned above, but definitely before you push it, is to get a boost gauge. It's up to you if you want to keep the stock look and just temporarily hook one up for diagnostic purposes, or if you want a permanent installation. I got my S2 a little under a year ago, and had no idea I was boosting to 15 or 16 psi! Yikes. |
Yes, I'm just undecided on where an how to mount it. Probably a clock delete that can be reverse as I want this one as stock as possible. I can also perhaps add it to PLX multigauge. |
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1980-931
Joined: 23 Jun 2018 Posts: 17 Location: New England
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Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 11:30 am Post subject: |
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morghen wrote: | you need a set of floor mats |
True story, hoping for something 80's cool like two tone cocomats or similar. Or just do Lloyds embroidered. Thoughts? |
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1980-931
Joined: 23 Jun 2018 Posts: 17 Location: New England
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Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 11:54 am Post subject: |
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Does anyone know the correct part number for 931 injectors? I keep getting results for what I believe are NA injectors. Thanks |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 Posts: 2596 Location: MI
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1980-931
Joined: 23 Jun 2018 Posts: 17 Location: New England
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Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 12:03 am Post subject: |
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Thank you so much! |
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morghen
Joined: 21 Jan 2005 Posts: 8886 Location: Romania
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Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 3:19 am Post subject: |
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1980-931 wrote: | morghen wrote: | you need a set of floor mats |
True story, hoping for something 80's cool like two tone cocomats or similar. Or just do Lloyds embroidered. Thoughts? |
_________________ https://www.the924.com |
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