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Problem After Trackday
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 2608
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris79 wrote:
Yes, I have to improve rear brakes and install front racing brakepads, do you have some advice ?

Can you link your thread for replace drums?

For now I don't convert my car from 4-lug to 5-lug.


I tried racing brake shoes for the rear (many years ago when I was track driving n/a), but the standard brake shoes worked just as good. Maybe you could make some holes in the backplate for better ventilation. But as long as you keep them adjusted correctly they work fine. I tried them in endurance racing aswell, worked fine.

There are several types of drums for the 924, depending on supplier. I had some non reinforced ones, they cracked around the axle and actually started to wobble, really really scary. I then to the reinforced drums and had no problems after that. They have more material around the axle hole in the drum, you can easily see it. If anyone is interested I can post some pictures.

I really like the Hawk HP+ front brake pads, they last for a long time and never overheat, even in very hot weather. Only downside is alot of brake dust, and as many race pads they are quite aggressive on the brake discs.

VERY IMPORTANT, rebuild your brake calipers. If you track drive you will have to do it every couple of years, the rubber gets dry and starts to fall apart after many track days. Rebuilding the calipers costs very little money and prevents overheating of the brake pads, since the brake pad can move more freely, since the piston gets pulled back by the rubber seals. I found out original ATE rebuild kit lasts much longer for track day use!

Brake fluid, for example ATE racing blue or RBF600 works very well.

You dont need the 5lug setup, just get the original setup in good condition with the things I wrote above(as you should with all cars if you plan on doing track days) and you will be fine!
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chris79  



Joined: 29 Jan 2014
Posts: 551
Location: milan

PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for this advices, I want to made all' this modifications.

After I want to improve my engine with volumetric supercharger, but first I need engine in good conditions.
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8804
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 11:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well shit, then, dude - you will need the 5-lug 4-wheel discs!

As well as some oiling system upgrades - add a cooler, for damn sure, and then an Accusump oil accumulator to keep pressure up.
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Vaughan Scott
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chris79  



Joined: 29 Jan 2014
Posts: 551
Location: milan

PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 11:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Evan air intercooler I think for supercharger.

Do you have some detailed informations about conversion from na to supercharger (no turbo).

Engine rebuild is necessary?
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924RACR  



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 1:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have no knowledge of how best to go about such a conversion, sorry.

But yes, I'd say doing it without refreshing your engine (mild rebuild, just replace worn bearings) is just asking for trouble...
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chris79  



Joined: 29 Jan 2014
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Location: milan

PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 2:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And about oil system ?
I don't know this modification.
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
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Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 3:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I installed a remote filter mount adapter; it replaces the oil filter with a fitting with two ports (in and out). Then you mount a larger filter where it's more easily accessible... and it's easy to add in an oil cooler, while you're at it.

A few pics, though not awesome:
http://vaughanscott.com/construction.htm#OIL%20COOLER

Here's the adapter that replaces the oil filter:
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/PermaCool111/SpinOnAdapters

That is the exact part I used, from that source, and the 3/4"-16 thread is correct. There's not enough room in there to use a sandwich plate between the filter and the block, without using now a smaller oil filter than stock - clearance to the header/exhaust manifold is bad. Better to get it out from under there.

You will probably have better luck buying locally near you, it's a very common racing part, now that you know the correct size thread.

I recommend a very large oil cooler; our racecar runs a 8.5x11" cooler, never any problems in the worst heat.
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chris79  



Joined: 29 Jan 2014
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Location: milan

PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 3:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A lot of work, I don't know that all these modifications are necessary. Even engine rebuild is big and long job for me, but I want to try this tuning.
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 3:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

...then it sounds like you're going to get a chance to practice engine replacement sooner than you think... if you don't run out of brakes first and hit something...

Bad choices, dude.

These mods are necessary for tracking a pretty-well-stock 2.0L NA. Add a blower? Forget about it...
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
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Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 4:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 125hp n/a seems to be on the limit without oil cooler, but it works. Stays at max 110-120degC if i remember correctly, regardless of time on track, though oil temps were higher with undertray on. This was concluded on my friends track na. As stated above you really need an oil cooler if you go for more than stock 125, its a very easy mod to do, takes a day to install. It's of course beneficial for a standard car aswell.
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chris79  



Joined: 29 Jan 2014
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 7:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

But if compression test is good, I need to open engine?
If not necessary I'd rather spend time for improve oil system, install supercharger and all components needed.
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
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Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd be a bit concerned about being sure the lower end - bearings - are OK, if you've had oiling issues... but if you are willing to do the oil system upgrades, and get some proper brakes under there for when you start going faster, maybe you could see how things go...
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chris79  



Joined: 29 Jan 2014
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Location: milan

PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

But do you ask engine extract and rebuild? In english I don't understand what is bearing.
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924RACR  



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 12:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm... the main and rod journal bearings on the crankshaft are what I mean...
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Vaughan Scott
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chris79  



Joined: 29 Jan 2014
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Location: milan

PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 2:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is possibile to replace under the engine, without disassemble It, it's right?
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