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Rod Bolts
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the_mad_electrician  



Joined: 16 Nov 2009
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Location: Central Georgia

PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 11:57 pm    Post subject: Rod Bolts Reply with quote

Has the known supply of ARP rod bolts been depleted? I think I read that someone bought Dan's last set...
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 2:39 am    Post subject: Re: Rod Bolts Reply with quote

the_mad_electrician wrote:
Has the known supply of ARP rod bolts been depleted? I think I read that someone bought Dan's last set...

Yes, I just sold the last set last week.
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Fifty50Plus  



Joined: 28 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 2:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Time for another group buy? I'd be in for a set.
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the_mad_electrician  



Joined: 16 Nov 2009
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Location: Central Georgia

PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 12:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fifty50Plus wrote:
Time for another group buy? I'd be in for a set.

Agreed, not having rod bolts completely changes what I can and can not do to my project.
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 5:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to need a set by next summer for a new HC motor. So count me in also.
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the_mad_electrician  



Joined: 16 Nov 2009
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Location: Central Georgia

PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone experiment with different brands? With the amount of engines out there that have been produced there has to be something that is very close to the same size bolt. Sometimes you have to think outside the box


If I had some extra rods or the messurments I would do some research of my own
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When we first had these made, I sent samples to ARP and they checked their entire catalog for a "close" replacement, but turned up nothing. We encountered the same difficulty with bearings...several that were "close", but there were so few 64mm bearings made we couldn't find one that was suitable.
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the_mad_electrician  



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well crap that sucks! I don't know if $900 rods are in my budget.
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MikeJinCO  



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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 11:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has anyone checked the early VW diesel or the 5cyl Audi's? They aren't in the ARP catalog. Going to the VW tuners might be the way to go. I don't have any rods or I'd send one to Techtonics for a start.
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MikeJinCO  



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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 11:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mispost, ARO does have MkI VW bolts on the Techtonics website. But nothing for the Audi 5cyl.
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the_mad_electrician  



Joined: 16 Nov 2009
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Location: Central Georgia

PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 1:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MikeJinCO wrote:
Mispost, ARO does have MkI VW bolts on the Techtonics website. But nothing for the Audi 5cyl.


There's an 84 golf at the local pull-a-part I might got snatch a rod out of it see how it compares... if I can find a spare 2 liter rod...... I really regret letting that spare engine go to save a hundred bucks
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ideola  



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FWIW, rumor has it that European Motorworks developed their stroker based on a VW rod with smaller big end journals and flat top pistons, but I've not been successful in documenting exactly what they used. I can tell you one thing, I am extremely skeptical about the claimed 2.4L displacement...it would require a whopping increase to the stroke, and even with my custom Crower rods, there was still very very tight clearance on the front two rods (at the shoulders) due to one of the oil galleys.

If you go to my downloads page, you will find an Excel spreadsheet compiled by our own Peter Barnett listing out critical rod dimensions for many applications. This is a good place to start if you're looking for ideas on alternate rods.

One of the most critical things to be aware of is that the OEM rods are crank-centered, meaning that the ideal replacement would have a big-end width that is identical to the stock unit. If you find one that is just slightly larger, it could be machined down, but if it is smaller to begin with, you would have to add material and then machine it back down. Which in my opinion sort of defeats the purpose. Smaller big end diameter would also be desireable, so that you could use the stock rod bearings for the replacement application and simply grind down the stock crank to match. Rod length and pin diameter are not as critical either, assuming you were going to use custom pistons, because the pistons could be designed to accommodate any variance from OEM dimensions.

Having said all of that, what you're going to find by looking at that excel spreadsheet, is that the OEM big end width of 27.9mm is unique to the 924. There are no rods listed in that sheet that match this dimension, and this is a challenge (if not a show stopper) that you will have to overcome somehow, both in terms of the rod itself and its bearings.
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the_mad_electrician  



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What you would have to do is use the rod and piston from another car... the Honda H22 seems like a possible choice the rod is just a little bit shorter and it has a smaller big big.

http://www.exospeed.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=211_196_68_126_182_129_194

http://www.crower.com/billet-crowerods-honda-prelude-2-2-vtec.html
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A smaller big end will require grinding the crank journals to match. The key dimension, however, is not the diameter, it is the width of the rod, or what in machinist-speak is referred to as the "length" of the bearing. Used in this context, "length" is somewhat counter-intuitive...but that's what bearing specs list as the dimension that one would normally think of as being the cross-sectional width of the rod, i.e. when looking at it from the side. As noted above, OEM rods are crank-centered, meaning that the shape of the journal and the rod are what hold the rod in place and keep it from slapping back and forth on the journal surface. If you look at a piston-rod assembly, you will see that there are gaps on either side of the little end of the rod when attached to the piston.

Using a shorter rod means that you will need a different piston than OEM because the lower pin height will reduce CR. So you will either need custom pistons designed to make up for the difference in pin height, or you will need to find an off-the-shelf piston that will result in roughly the same compression height as the OEM piston. More variables.

If you opted for a custom piston, you could have it designed so that the rod was "pin-centered", meaning that the bosses thru which the piston pin are held would be machined precisely to hold the rod in place, rather than having it be crank-centered. This would probably require having an entire rotating assembly available to the piston manufacturer so they could take the necessary measurements to make sure that the rod was appropriately positioned at the pin so as to be roughly centered on the crank journal.
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the_mad_electrician  



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The honda is piston centered, I have some friends that are into hondas trying to get me a used rod or at least the width measurment. I just got the idea from an engine build I saw where a guy used Subaru pistons for a stroked chevy 307. Very interesting build..
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