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Wastegate: Additional syptoms/Rebuild Help :)
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Ants  
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2002 1:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so i've been under the car and inspected that hose you mentioned Rick, but it is virtually brand new, it must have been replaced when the turbo was, no luck there.
I did find a hose that had been holed by rubbing against the alternator belt. It comes from behing the manifold above the turbo, and goes around the front and back to a Y connector on a hose that comes from the top of the Air box, through a black plastic cylinder thingy????? and toward the back of the engine, still i patched it up.
Got some penetrating oil and managed to undo the 6 bolts, Jack in the Box style, BOING, damn that spring is large. Everything looks fine, the rubber boot is good, the spring looks almost new. I whizzed around inside with a wirebrush attachment, and the plunger makes a good seal. It looks like a good bargain for £100.
Would i be right in thinking the wastegate is the same for the 911 too cos this one has 930 part numbers all over it.

Ants
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Rick MacLaren  
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2002 2:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah they're the same part numbers. So if the rubber is good, and the area un-messed up with wear into the wastegate walls, it's not the wastegate. Replace the rubber, yes?

Check out this picture:

http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/Bellows.jpg

We're talking the same booty, yes? You rotated it 360 degrees in your hands while stretching the rubber to inspect for cracks? Either way, all that rubber there gets replaced anyways - it's cheap insurance.

[img]http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/Bellows.jpg[img]



[ This Message was edited by: Rick MacLaren on 2002-06-23 02:37 ]
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Smoothie  
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2002 2:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, the 911 Turbo (930) uses the same wastegate, but the spring might be different for those cars.

The last time I replaced my wastegate diaphram was about 7 years ago. I never read this anywhere - it was my own idea, but I rubbed some rubber treatment/preservative on the upper side of the diaphram - the spring side of it. Thats the side that wears at the fold from rubbing/vibrating against the housing. It was a silicone-containing product that I got from a small auto detailers store - had all kinds of health warnings - use with rubber gloves - for professional use only, etc. Silicone is good for rubber, but bad for o2 sensors - don't know if it's even possible for any of it to get to the o2 sensor from being on that diaphram, but it might be, so that's why I only put it on the top surface and not the bottom where it's exposed to intake air from the control line. It's lasted 7 years so far and the o2 sensor is ok.

[ This Message was edited by: smoothie on 2002-06-23 04:28 ]
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Smoothie  
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2002 2:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rick, I think Ants is working with the new-used wastegate he just got - not the one that was on his car.
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Ants  
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2002 3:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys, yes rick we are talking about the same boot No.10 yes, it looks almost new, and yes the wastegate i'm working on is a replacement not the one off the car (minimising off road time as its my daily driver)
I'll look for some silicone whilst its in bits.
I had a look also underneath at the exhaust section that fits the wstegate and up, and i don't have the tools to get that far up with a socket.
May have to invest in an extension, or bigger better socket set DoH
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Smoothie  
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2002 3:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh yeah, I know what you're talking about. It's a long time since I had to deal with those nuts, but I think I used the 1/2" drive socket set and a couple of long extensions together. Wish I could remember if I used a swivel joint at the end of it... Sorry, those brain cells are long gone.

Over here, NAPA sells silicone spray - you should be able to find something similar. The stuff I used is called Ardex 6224 Speedy Brightener "For tires, vinyl and rubber".
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Rick MacLaren  
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2002 6:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok just making sure.

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John H  
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 24, 2002 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

On 2002-06-23 01:37, Ants wrote:

I did find a hose that had been holed by rubbing against the alternator belt. It comes from behing the manifold above the turbo, and goes around the front and back to a Y connector on a hose that comes from the top of the Air box, through a black plastic cylinder thingy????? and toward the back of the engine, still i patched it up.

This line is comes from the drain line from the turbo. At the bottom of the turbo you have the line going out to a small metal box this then drains into the sump via the large dia rubber hose. From the top of the metal box thing there is another metal tube that goes up and along (below the exhaust manifold)to the front of the motor - then it changes to rubber tube and into the black cylinder - thjis cylinder collects any oil in the air and drains it back to the sump and the balance of the air is feed back into the manifold.
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Ants  
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 24, 2002 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers John H.

That will explain why there was a little oil in the pipe, that was dripping on the alternator belt.
Patched up now though.
I've decided to take the dissasembled waste gate to the guy who sorted the turbo last year, for an expert opinion. If he rekons its OK then i shall try and fit it myself in the next couple of weeks once i've sourced a decent socket set.

Thanxs for all you help people
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John H  
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2002 7:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

On 2002-06-23 03:10, Ants wrote:
I had a look also underneath at the exhaust section that fits the wastegate and up, and i don't have the tools to get that far up with a socket.
May have to invest in an extension, or bigger better socket set DoH

You should be able to get the waste gate off without any additional sockets.
All the tools you need are:
A 17mm open end spanner, 17mm socket and rachet plus short extension (3”) for the turbo and a longer extension for the J pipe.
A 13mm socket
A 13mm ring /open end spanner.
A 15mm socket and 15 mm open ended spanner.

Step 1.
Remove the J pipe of hockey stick from the manifold to waste gate. 17mm nuts at the manifold – you will need a reasonable extension on your socket fro this – I use two 6 inch extensions on a ½ inch drive set.
Next remove the 4 13 mm nuts on the lower end – these are normally super tight and as you have another waste gate you can shear them off with brute force if all else fails.
Step 2.
Remove the four nuts from the turbo – note only three can be reached using a socket and the fourth one can only be by sliding the exhaust back (Step ).
Step 3
Remove the two 13mm nuts holding the waste gate to the waste gate bracket. These can really only be loosened off by using a 13mm ring/open ended spanner (unless you have one of those really shallow universal jointed sockets).
You have a choice here as to which two nuts/bolts you remove. If the plate holding the waste gate to the bracket on the torque tube is to the rear and could be moved back once the bolts have been removed then you don’t have to remove the nuts on the waste gate.
Undo the 17mm control line to the waste gate – This is a hollow bolt so be careful you don’t snap it.
Step 4
Support the rear of the first muffler – remove the 15mm bolts holding the front section to the rear section.
Remove the two lots of 13 mm? Bolts holding the exhaust to the body/
Step 5
Wedge the very rear section of pipe so where it joins at the back of the first muffler is below the outlet – allows you to slide the front section over it.
Step 6
Pull the exhaust off the turbo – the waste gate should come with it – there might be a vent line on top of the waste gate.

Once you start to do it it’s really easy just time consuming 30 minutes to an hour – I’ve done it about three times in the last week, trying to cure exhaust leaks. So I’m getting really good at this.

When you put it all back together put an anti seize compound around the nuts and bolts – I use a Caltex product called KopperKote. Also I use stainless steel nuts and washers which combined with the kopper kote allow for easy removal. I hadn’t removed mine for about three years and all the botls came undone real easy .

Have fun.
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Rick MacLaren  
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2002 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, NEW nuts and bolts is preferred to re-using old ones.

You do all that work on your back John? Yikes.
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John H  
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2002 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get the car up high enough on stands and it's no problems.
I have the car about two to three feet of the ground so clearance is not a problem. Just lie on a mechanics creeper and push yourself around.
I've actually found it easy this way than using a hoist I have access to.

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Rick MacLaren  
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2002 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good idea.

I got stranded at my gf's place last weekend and had to crawl around on the floor of the garage using some kind of roof or wall inner layer plastic sheeting. Seemed to work ok. Only a few spiders in the hair. Easy to comb out.



BTW John, just took the PCar out for a toodle after a really really good tuning and it honks. I need to make for the cooler a 'shroud' so that air doesn't escape via the scoop around the cooler.

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