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Lizard
Joined: 03 Nov 2002 Posts: 9364 Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada
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Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 4:43 pm Post subject: |
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Looks good.
Wanting to see some dyno numbers!
What camshaft are you running?
I am at 430rwhp (SAE mustang), at 5.8PSI right now...... Single billet racing T67. _________________ 3 928s, |
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flosho
Joined: 01 Jul 2004 Posts: 3155 Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
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Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 9:52 am Post subject: |
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Lizard, stock cam shaft currently. _________________ [This Space For Rent] |
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flosho
Joined: 01 Jul 2004 Posts: 3155 Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
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Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 12:23 pm Post subject: |
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_________________ [This Space For Rent] |
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flosho
Joined: 01 Jul 2004 Posts: 3155 Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
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Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 1:11 pm Post subject: |
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Got the car back together and am having a few concerns with the cooling system.
The gauge started to get close to the red mark on the gauge. So I figured I'd need to bleed the system.
I let it cool down, re started the car without the bleed screw in the t-stat housing... It started to pump steam out the bleed hole but not any coolant.
I thought it might be a result of a faulty thermostat.
Took the thermostat out and boiled it in a pot of water and it separated/opened.
When I took the upper thermostat housing off, I checked the upper radiator hoses and they were dry so clearly there wasn't any coolant flowing through.
I didn't put it back together and try it again after testing the thermostat in a pot of water but I will tomorrow just to see if maybe it was stuck or something??
So I'm not sure what else to check. I felt the coolant lines near the back of the head and they are warm/filled with coolant.
FWIW, my cooling system has been stripped down a bit but the coolant flow path should be the same. I've removed the thermo-switch. _________________ [This Space For Rent] |
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Rasta Monsta
Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11724 Location: PacNW
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Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 3:07 pm Post subject: |
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Sounds underfilled. Even with the stat closed, the upper hose should be full.
You switched to 944 tank. . .everything that was hooked up from the rad to the 931 tank still hooked up? _________________ Toofah King Bad
- WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
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xEcUtEr
Joined: 11 Apr 2008 Posts: 30 Location: Lisbon - Portugal
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Posted: Tue Apr 17, 2012 4:12 am Post subject: |
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Nice work!!
any news??
_________________ 79' 924 2.0 @ Estoril Track |
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flosho
Joined: 01 Jul 2004 Posts: 3155 Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
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Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 11:54 pm Post subject: |
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Got the cooling issue sorted.
I'm currently working on my dash this week. Hope to have the dash in by the end of the weekend. _________________ [This Space For Rent] |
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flosho
Joined: 01 Jul 2004 Posts: 3155 Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
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Posted: Thu Jun 06, 2013 5:48 am Post subject: |
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Got a new wastegate actuator (7 psi version) so that I can finish tuning the car on the current injectors. Right now the wastegate actuator is a 14 psi unit and it maxes the injectors out.
Ordered some new/rebuilt 510cc units and will be fitting my billet fuel rail and SS lines after this weekend. _________________ [This Space For Rent] |
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flosho
Joined: 01 Jul 2004 Posts: 3155 Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
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Posted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 2:17 am Post subject: |
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So I've been driving this thing.
I'm getting a weird issue with the clutch pedal that would point to there being air in the system, but I've (tried) to bleed it with a motive power bleeder twice and it hasn't gone away.
About 75% of the time the clutch pedal pops back up but once in a while, if I let the clutch out slowly it will stick about 50% of the way up. The clutch is disengaged but the pedal doesn't return all the way.
There seems to be a good 1-2" of slop/play in the pedal??
Clutch has less than 2000-3000 miles on it, and I'm using a 911 pressure plate.
Also I'm really struggling to get rid of the valve train noise. I'm confident that the valves are adjusted properly when warm, but I still get some noise. Any way to muffle the lifters so it doesn't sound like a tractor?
Been needing to fix my old laptop or purchase a new one so I can continue tuning the car and also figure out why my fuel pump relay will cut out intermittently which means I get to go through the grounds... AGAIN. _________________ [This Space For Rent] |
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Grenadiers
Joined: 20 Feb 2007 Posts: 3222 Location: Nelson, WI & Prescott, AZ
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Posted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 5:03 am Post subject: |
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Your clutch hydraulics might have dirt in them, either the master or the slave. How new are they? I have a nice valve spring compressor combo if you want to adjust your valves. _________________ '83 944 Track car.
'88 924S Track car.
'89 944 Turbo
2004 Winnebago Vectra monster RV
2012 Jeep Wrangler
2014 Kia Soul
2001 Ford F350 powerstroke |
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flosho
Joined: 01 Jul 2004 Posts: 3155 Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
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Posted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 5:22 am Post subject: |
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Grenadiers wrote: | Your clutch hydraulics might have dirt in them, either the master or the slave. How new are they? I have a nice valve spring compressor combo if you want to adjust your valves. |
Slave is new, the master is original.
Adjust the valves, is there a different procedure than the adjusting screws on the lifters? _________________ [This Space For Rent] |
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Grenadiers
Joined: 20 Feb 2007 Posts: 3222 Location: Nelson, WI & Prescott, AZ
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Posted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 5:32 am Post subject: |
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Wait a minute, you don't need a valve spring compressor for adjustments! Thinking of the valve stem seal replacement job. oops. _________________ '83 944 Track car.
'88 924S Track car.
'89 944 Turbo
2004 Winnebago Vectra monster RV
2012 Jeep Wrangler
2014 Kia Soul
2001 Ford F350 powerstroke |
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leadfoot
Joined: 11 Dec 2002 Posts: 2222 Location: gOLD cOAST Australia
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Posted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 7:43 pm Post subject: |
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make sure when you bleed the clutch it doesn't suck the reservoir dry, you were using new fluid yes?? old fluid may have gone hydroscopic...
check for leaks in line connections or potentially you popped the piston out of the bore and broke the rubber bellows, had this happen on a rebuild...
I'm not sure if there's a return spring on the 931... 924 has one but you might do a little recon of the pedal pivot, something sticking and needs a grease??
Stu _________________ 1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress... |
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flosho
Joined: 01 Jul 2004 Posts: 3155 Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
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Posted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 10:10 pm Post subject: |
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leadfoot wrote: | make sure when you bleed the clutch it doesn't suck the reservoir dry, you were using new fluid yes?? old fluid may have gone hydroscopic...
check for leaks in line connections or potentially you popped the piston out of the bore and broke the rubber bellows, had this happen on a rebuild...
I'm not sure if there's a return spring on the 931... 924 has one but you might do a little recon of the pedal pivot, something sticking and needs a grease??
Stu |
Yeah, it is new fluid from a year ago and the motive bleeder was filled with fresh fluid which is supplied to the reservoir so it is unable to run dry.
There is a return spring by the pedal and an adjustment down there, but firstly I don't think there is enough adjustment to take up the slack and secondly the pedal would be half-way "down".
I think I'm going to pick up a new brake reservoir, recondition a booster and swap it all in and I'll check the slave at that time and just bench bleed it. _________________ [This Space For Rent] |
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Cedric
Joined: 27 Aug 2004 Posts: 2616 Location: Sweden
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Posted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 5:47 am Post subject: |
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Put up some under bonnet insulation, mine was quite thick, that removed alot of vavle train noise. Pretty impossible to get rid of on these cars, even with perfectly adjusted valves _________________ 1980 924 Turbo
www.instagram.com/garagecedric/ |
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