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How to Install Late Rain Channels on an Early Chassis

 
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15462
Location: Woodstock IL

PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 12:36 am    Post subject: How to Install Late Rain Channels on an Early Chassis Reply with quote

In 1987, Porsche changed the style of rain channel covers from the old-school concave style to a more streamlined, smooth appearance. I like the appearance of the later style better, but unfortunately, the attachment method is different. On the older cars, the rain channels clip directly onto the pinch weld along the door. The newer style have six rivet-studs and special clips that the rain channel attaches to. Here's what is needed for the job:

PARTS
QTY 12 "steel rivet" (431 805 121 A) @ ~$2.50 each
QTY 12 rain channel clamp (999 591 732 02) @ ~$1.50 each
QTY 2 used late rain channels sourced from a donor 924S or '87-onward 944
Here is a photo of the steel rivet and the clamp:


TOOLS
Hand drill
Center punch
Hand riveter
3/16" drill bit (I think...will have to double check on the size later)
Masking tape
Sharpie
Tape measure
Towel(s)


Here are two closeups of the old-school concave rain channel:


STEP 1: ACQUIRE DONOR PARTS
Remove parts from donor car. The later style channels are very difficult to remove without damaging the paint on the body, and without bending the rain channels. BE CAREFUL! Patience is required. If you're pulling from a salvage car, you don't have to worry so much about the paint on the car, but the channels are flimsy and will bend VERY easily, making re-installation much more difficult. It helps to have a thin-bladed to screw driver to gently pry the channel away from the clip. Once you get the first one to "pop" loose, you can gently tug on the rain channel as you progressively pry on each successive clip. On my donor car, there were six clips per side. Interestingly, PET says only 12 clips and studs are required, but there were actually eight studs on each side of the car. Here's a couple of photos to give you an idea of where the studs are located on the pinch weld:

In addition to the rain channels themselves, if you're careful enough with removal, you should also be able to salvage the clips, so the only parts you'll need to buy are the new rivets for the recipient car. Be aware that the rain channel piece has a thin rubber gasket that you will want to preserve if at all possible. If you're repainting the channel, this gasket slides out easily, but take care not to tear it on removal. The rivet studs will need to be sourced new. I can get them for $2.50 each, so contact me via PM if you need a set.

STEP 2: MEASURE, TAPE & MARK
Next, make a note of the location of the rivet studs on your donor car. (I will post back later with approximate locations). On the donor car, apply masking tape to the pinch weld to help prevent the paint from lifting during the drilling process. Use the sharpie to mark the location of the studs on the recipient car. Use a center punch to prep each of the drilling locations.


STEP 3: DRILL
Using a 3/16" drill bit, drill each of the holes (6 per rain channel). I found some nice long bits with a reinforced shank at Sears. The extra length comes in handy to help prevent the spinning chuck on the drill from coming into contact with the roof of the car. I used a milk crate to stand on so I could better control the drill, particularly at the moment it breaks free through the pinch weld. When you're done drilling, remove the masking tape.


STEP 4: INSTALL RIVET-STUDS
One at a time, press the rivet-stud into the hole, and carefully use a hand riveter to secure them. I had to use a lot of care during this step because the width of my riveter nearly interfered with the curve of the roof line and would have easily marred the paint. I used towel to help keep the riveter from contacting the fresh paint.


STEP 5: INSTALL CLAMPS
The clamps sort of slide and lock into position. On a couple of the rivets, I had to very gently and slightly bend the lip of the rivet on the outward facing side in order to get the clip to slip under the lip. The rivets are pretty soft, so be careful! I then used a flat-bladed screw driver to gently tap the clamps forward to lock them securely in place.



STEP 6: INSTALL THE RAIN CHANNELS
The rain channels have quite a tight fit over the clamps. I found it necessary to use a large towel and a rubber mallet to firmly tap the channel into place. Once in place, the rain channels won't budge!


STEP 7: ENJOY!
Enjoy the sleek updated look of your new rain channels

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Scorpio  



Joined: 05 Jul 2007
Posts: 1956
Location: Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

what am i missing??? at what point did your car look like that raging red beast!!??
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15462
Location: Woodstock IL

PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As acquired from Ray Wolf in Dec 2005:


As recovered from Flint P.D. after it was stolen (twice in one day) and crashed:


Image in the OP: after four years of waiting for restitution, and finally getting it repaired and re-sprayed...plus a bunch of additional little custom touches. Full reveal still to follow
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15 981 GTS | 88 924S SE | 82 931 Holbert | 82 931 Rallye | 81 937 | 81 Euro 931 | 81 Weissach | 80 US 928 | 80 US 931 '941' | 80 US 931 | 80 931 GTR | 79 Sebring | 78 D-Prod Replica | 78 w/D-Prod kit | 78 Poli-Form | 78 Limited Edition | 77 Martini
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Scorpio  



Joined: 05 Jul 2007
Posts: 1956
Location: Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mmm i like black mirrors on a red car..gonna do the same now
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1979 NA
MS1..EFI..
GARRETT T25 TURBO
BILSTEIN SHOCKS
GT BASED CUSTOM BODYKIT

Brisbane , Australia
Think mean think fast
all youll see is
my Porsches Arse!!!
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15462
Location: Woodstock IL

PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Note that those are leather mirror covers on my car. I've since removed the stock "flag" mirrors and replaced them with 968 mirrors. Just waiting for the last few bits for my 968 handles to finish that installation, then she'll be ready for the full photo shoot.
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15 981 GTS | 88 924S SE | 82 931 Holbert | 82 931 Rallye | 81 937 | 81 Euro 931 | 81 Weissach | 80 US 928 | 80 US 931 '941' | 80 US 931 | 80 931 GTR | 79 Sebring | 78 D-Prod Replica | 78 w/D-Prod kit | 78 Poli-Form | 78 Limited Edition | 77 Martini
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9XX Girl!  



Joined: 20 Sep 2009
Posts: 1617
Location: Cornish Riviera SW England

PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like the gutter trim Dan, car looks cleaner and less cluttered.
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11965
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like the later rain gutters. Saw this post on rennlist..Did you cover that paint chip before installing rain gutter.. you dont want rust. Good job.
The front bumer looks so bland though.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15462
Location: Woodstock IL

PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No paint chips. The white you see in the photos is either reflection from the flash or residual rubbing compound from when my body man rubbed the car out.
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15 981 GTS | 88 924S SE | 82 931 Holbert | 82 931 Rallye | 81 937 | 81 Euro 931 | 81 Weissach | 80 US 928 | 80 US 931 '941' | 80 US 931 | 80 931 GTR | 79 Sebring | 78 D-Prod Replica | 78 w/D-Prod kit | 78 Poli-Form | 78 Limited Edition | 77 Martini
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RC  



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 2612
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 1:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dunno, was looking close up at the slide marks. Scratches at least. Is there any reason why these clips cant simply be fixed in place with one or two more conventional style pop rivet?

Looks nice anyway.
Wish I knew about this before buying new original trim. Bit late now. Dont suppose you have some closeups of the trim section?
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15462
Location: Woodstock IL

PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 1:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, there's probably some scratches in the paint where the clips slid on, but it certainly didn't go down to bare metal, so I'm not really too concerned about rust.

The only thing about using normal rivets is that the clips don't exactly sit flush on the pinch weld, the stud that they slide onto on the OEM rivets holds them secure, but there's still a bit of a gap. You might be able to get regular rivets to work, but I didn't attempt it once I found out that the OEM ones were available on not too terribly expensive.

RC, what do you mean by trim section? Not sure what you're referring to?
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15 981 GTS | 88 924S SE | 82 931 Holbert | 82 931 Rallye | 81 937 | 81 Euro 931 | 81 Weissach | 80 US 928 | 80 US 931 '941' | 80 US 931 | 80 931 GTR | 79 Sebring | 78 D-Prod Replica | 78 w/D-Prod kit | 78 Poli-Form | 78 Limited Edition | 77 Martini
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RC  



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 2612
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 3:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK. Maybe a washer could be used under the clip in conjunction with a standard 1c rivet? Whatever. Think i`ve seen those or very similar clips used elsewhere, later windscreen trim clips, or on a 928?

Was referring to the cross section or how the metal is rolled. Assume the edge enters the clip & is retained, so also presume the spot welded edge is exposed underneath? Took a pic of the early style which as you know pushes over the welded edges.



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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15462
Location: Woodstock IL

PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 3:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahh, I gotcha. No, the trim piece "wraps" around the entire pinch weld, so the underside is not exposed. I have two more sets of late channels at home, will have to take some pix to show you.
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