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musicalannette
Joined: 21 Feb 2012 Posts: 413 Location: UK
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Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 6:52 am Post subject: Cure a Leaking Rear Hatch for $15 |
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I had a leaking rear hatch, initially it was leaking from the right hand side only. Then it leaked from the other side, I cured both the leaks and I would guess most hatches that leak have a problem in the same place and can be cured for about $15 and without having to take it off.
Hope this helps.
First you need to get hold of some cynoarcrylate from a modelshop (the one that sells model aeroplanes not claudia shiffers). This is essentially superglue, it come in three "flavours", be sure to get the slow setting variety called "thick". It will set in about a minute, the "thin" variety will set more or less instantly and wont plug the leaks aswell. Dont think ordinary superglue is up to the task, this stuff is superglue on steroids.
While your at the modelshop also pick up some "kicker" or activater to give it its proper name, which will allow the glue to set well.
I found on my hatch that the leak was on the inside bottom edge of the glass. You can normally see where the water is getting in (I dont think you can see it on the photo though.)
A word about the glue.
It is seriously sticky stuff. Cover your paint, cover your carpet, put on old clothes, watch yourself if you have it on your hands because when the activator gets to it, it gets seriously hot. DONT WEAR SHORTS AND DROP IT YOUR LEGS.
It is intended to set when there are two mating surfaces, will remain liquid for quite a while where it is exposed to air, to cure it when it is exposed to just the air, use the activator.
With the "thin" type, it is like water, it will run into the smallest of gaps. The "thick" type is a bit more viscous and you can build up a layer of glue and it will bridge small gaps.
Apply a good amount of glue along the bottom edge of the glass on the inside of the hatch where the metal meets the glass.
And on the other side (as I have leaks both sides) covering the wires for the rear wash wipe.
The glue that is not touching the frame/windows will still be wet, this is your only chance to sort out drips and runs before it sets, wipe with a cloth as required.
Spray the activator over the glue.
It will be set in less than a minute if you give it plenty of activator and should look something like this when its set.
It looks perfect from the outside and you wont spot it unless your looking for it.
My hatch now doesnt leak - even with this amount of water.
Just be aware - it is seriously sticky stuff.
Hope this helps. _________________ I KNEW white wall tyres were invented by Americans .....just not at Boeing.... to be fitted on the 737.....
Last edited by musicalannette on Sat Aug 25, 2012 5:35 pm; edited 5 times in total |
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Grenadiers
Joined: 20 Feb 2007 Posts: 3222 Location: Nelson, WI & Prescott, AZ
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Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 6:59 am Post subject: |
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Hey, where'd ya go, down to the pub? What do we do with the fancy glue once we have it in our hand?  _________________ '83 944 Track car.
'88 924S Track car.
'89 944 Turbo
2004 Winnebago Vectra monster RV
2012 Jeep Wrangler
2014 Kia Soul
2001 Ford F350 powerstroke |
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musicalannette
Joined: 21 Feb 2012 Posts: 413 Location: UK
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Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 7:24 am Post subject: |
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Whatever you do - dont pick your nose!! _________________ I KNEW white wall tyres were invented by Americans .....just not at Boeing.... to be fitted on the 737..... |
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musicalannette
Joined: 21 Feb 2012 Posts: 413 Location: UK
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Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 8:03 am Post subject: |
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If you do get the glue on your hands just rub your fingures together - keep them moving all the time - it will dry quickly - once dry you can peel it off along with a top layer of skin - so its a bit like having a deep cleansing therapy!
Its normally all gone from you hands in about a day or so.......i suppose you could go mad and wear gloves. _________________ I KNEW white wall tyres were invented by Americans .....just not at Boeing.... to be fitted on the 737..... |
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Paul

Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 9491 Location: Southeast Wisconsin
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musicalannette
Joined: 21 Feb 2012 Posts: 413 Location: UK
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Posted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:55 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, its the same stuff, you will need the activator. Grip is a common manufacturer, E-Z bond probably do there own. A common american brand is bob smith industries. All the activators should work with eack other. I think you can even buy a large industrial "Tin" of it from loctite, but then you have to fill a spraying dispenser. be aware the glue goes superhot when it hits the activator and some of the gases are not too pleasent.
If you are using this glue on wood or other materials that you want to stick together that are not your rear hatch (does seem to work best on wood an semi porous materials) then you can apply the activator to the material first to impregnate it, then the glue, then stick it together.
Hope this helps. _________________ I KNEW white wall tyres were invented by Americans .....just not at Boeing.... to be fitted on the 737..... |
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musicalannette
Joined: 21 Feb 2012 Posts: 413 Location: UK
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Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 11:29 am Post subject: |
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Hi, I looked up the proper Loctite number for the activator. Its 7547.
The glue is best when its new and sealed. Try to do all your gluing within a 2 or 3 days as over time the glue becomes less effective. I would try make sure that if its left that it is definitely air tight, as exposure to air also lessons the glues ability to stick.
Nothing is a as good as when you first get it from the shop and if its been hanging around for 3 months or more, buy a new bottle.
hope this helps _________________ I KNEW white wall tyres were invented by Americans .....just not at Boeing.... to be fitted on the 737..... |
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!tom

Joined: 28 Aug 2006 Posts: 1941 Location: Victoria, BC Canada
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Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 12:45 pm Post subject: |
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You can store your CA glue in the fridge for a much longer shelf life. _________________ 78 924 NA
5-lug |
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