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BionicBalls

Joined: 05 Jan 2009 Posts: 642 Location: Charlotte, NC
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Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 6:04 am Post subject: Using a check valve instead of an accumulator. |
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What are your thoughts on using a check valve in place of an accumulator?
I've got a check valve on order and plan on putting it in the fuel system between the accumulator and the fuel dizzy. I'm hoping that this will solve my warm start problem. If it does, do you think I can just eliminate the accumulator? _________________ 1980 924 NA
1982 931 |
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Ozzie

Joined: 12 Mar 2005 Posts: 4448 Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia
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Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 6:12 am Post subject: |
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you should already have a check valve in the pump. _________________ Porsche 924 1984 (UK import) NA
Its AUTO and its BLACK
Montego Black on black/red
Engineer of Electro/Mechanical Systems Maintenance |
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Rich H
Joined: 10 Jun 2007 Posts: 2665 Location: Preston, Lancs, UK
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Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 6:20 am Post subject: |
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What he said. Tux hasn't got a check valve and he doesn't have difficult hot start he has no hot start at all... _________________ 1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - Work in progress...
1980 Porsche 924 S2 DITC Turbo - Original spec
1978 Homo-Sapiens - Tired spec
1953 Landrover S1 - Pensioner Spec |
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BionicBalls

Joined: 05 Jan 2009 Posts: 642 Location: Charlotte, NC
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Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 8:12 am Post subject: |
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Well something is causing a void in the fuel system. Cold start is no problem, hot start is no problem, but warm start is. It will start up immediately, run for a second then cut off, and it then takes about 45 seconds of turning over to start back up.
What I'm gathering is that the fuel in the injector lines is enough to start it up and run for a second but there is a void between the accumulator and the dizzy that is then causing it to cut out and not be able to start until the void is filled.
I'm using the fuel pump from a 951 if that matters. _________________ 1980 924 NA
1982 931 |
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!tom

Joined: 28 Aug 2006 Posts: 1941 Location: Victoria, BC Canada
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Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 8:14 am Post subject: |
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| BionicBalls wrote: | | I'm using the fuel pump from a 951 if that matters. |
I would think so, as the CIS systems require far higher fuel pressures than EFI systems.
Does the 951 pump generate enough pressure to be within spec. for the CIS system? _________________ 78 924 NA
5-lug |
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PORSCHEV

Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 1901 Location: Cedar Lake Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 10:41 am Post subject: |
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I have been called a hick before for saying it....but I will say it proud again. Wire your cold start injector to a switch and start it whenever you want. Simple solution to bad engineering, I call it. _________________ 1976 924
5 lug conversion, 17'C2 wheels,custom body work,327 vette engine.
1978-#53 "D" track racer. |
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9XX Girl!

Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Posts: 1617 Location: Cornish Riviera SW England
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Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 10:56 am Post subject: |
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i will second that! fit a Audi 5000 TB and use the WOT switch. When it dont start, put your foot to the floor and crank away.
 _________________ 924 (84) N/A 2 ltr - 5 Speed - BLACK - Project (looking for 200BHP, any ideas!)
924 (81) N/A 2 ltr - 3 Speed Auto - SURINAM RED (Metallic) - Near Original Spec (sticking with originality)
BOTH ON THE ROAD, BOTH USED EVERY-OTHER DAY |
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RC

Joined: 25 Mar 2007 Posts: 2637 Location: Australia
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Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 11:26 am Post subject: |
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Then what happens when you`re driving and put your foot down? Runs so rich that if the motor doesn`t stall it leaves a big cloud of black smoke behind while you watch the fuel gauge drop.
May not be a huge problem if you drive like a woman but most guys like to put their foot down even when not overtaking, going uphill, or entering freeways. A simple push button is probably the easiest & most effective hack. |
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BionicBalls

Joined: 05 Jan 2009 Posts: 642 Location: Charlotte, NC
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Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 5:00 pm Post subject: |
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tom, CIS pressures have been checked and are within spec so the pump isnt the issue. I'm going to try this check valve, and if that doesn't work then I'm going to wire the cold start injector to one of the switches on the center console, I've got three sitting empty. _________________ 1980 924 NA
1982 931 |
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Rich H
Joined: 10 Jun 2007 Posts: 2665 Location: Preston, Lancs, UK
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Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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You have classic hot start problems.
Use a classic hot start repair.
You say you have checked pressures, did you do a leakdown check?
Check all the injectors (5) and fuel lines are not leaking into the inlet manifold
(Pull each one after engine shutdown)
Check the check valve is installed and works
(Might be in the pump, might be seperate bolted to the pump outlet)
Check the accumulator diaphragm is intact.
(Take the screw out the bottom if you get fuel then you have a broken accumulator)
Check the accumulator is holding pressure
(The Accumulator should hold pressure for a set time, it's in the manuals)
Once you have done this then you can go hacking the system about and putting in another check valve if you really feel the need, despite the fact you have one already. If your old check valve works you will achieve precisely nothing.
The system works when its servicable. It doesn't work when it's broken. It's not a poor design, it's just fine, but it's 30 years old.
Don't bodge it - Fix it
Rich _________________ 1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - Work in progress...
1980 Porsche 924 S2 DITC Turbo - Original spec
1978 Homo-Sapiens - Tired spec
1953 Landrover S1 - Pensioner Spec |
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9XX Girl!

Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Posts: 1617 Location: Cornish Riviera SW England
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Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:18 pm Post subject: |
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| RC wrote: | Then what happens when you`re driving and put your foot down? Runs so rich that if the motor doesn`t stall it leaves a big cloud of black smoke behind while you watch the fuel gauge drop.
May not be a huge problem if you drive like a woman |
I'm shocked you haven't twiged RC but,
.... the cold start valve gets its positive feed from the engage signal of the starter motor solenoid and, it gets its negative signal via the WOT switch on the TB in this set up. The engine won't run rich or smoke when you boot it unless you are trying to engage the starter motor at the same time, as in reality, the hack involves shorting the thermo time switch/sensor (which is notoriously unreliable after 20 years or so)
the beauty of doing the mod this way is there are no switches, holes etc, in the dash and if the thermo time switch/sensor does decide to work, all well and good. Moreover, i have watched others that have used my car. when it wont start when its hot, people just naturally try giving it more throttle. i have the WOT switch set to cut in at half throttle and it has worked lovely for the last year since it was fitted. my stock Porsche TB that came off had no WOT switch!
as for my driving style, well come sit next to me one day!  _________________ 924 (84) N/A 2 ltr - 5 Speed - BLACK - Project (looking for 200BHP, any ideas!)
924 (81) N/A 2 ltr - 3 Speed Auto - SURINAM RED (Metallic) - Near Original Spec (sticking with originality)
BOTH ON THE ROAD, BOTH USED EVERY-OTHER DAY |
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Rich H
Joined: 10 Jun 2007 Posts: 2665 Location: Preston, Lancs, UK
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Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:35 pm Post subject: |
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Neat fix. I found the Audi TB switch wouldn't fit intact and had to cut off the lower part of the case though. You got a pic of yours installed? _________________ 1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - Work in progress...
1980 Porsche 924 S2 DITC Turbo - Original spec
1978 Homo-Sapiens - Tired spec
1953 Landrover S1 - Pensioner Spec |
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9XX Girl!

Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Posts: 1617 Location: Cornish Riviera SW England
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Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 11:01 pm Post subject: |
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| Rich H wrote: | | Neat fix. I found the Audi TB switch wouldn't fit intact and had to cut off the lower part of the case though. You got a pic of yours installed? |
The Audi TB i bought had a closed throttle switch on it too. you need to remove that and it shoud fit.
As for wiring, the WOT SW has a stock connecter that i cut off. one wire now goes to ground via a crimped ring terminal on one of the switch mounting screws. The other side of the WOT switch wire now has a male 1/4" insulated crimp terminal on it and goes the very short distance in the direction of the cold start valve.
I then bought a new plug and some AMP crimp terminals and a new cable boot and replaced the Bosch Cold Start plug but, I also crimped a short bit of wire onto the relevant terminal at the same time! (think its the one closest to the brake master cylinder but i will check) This short wire has a female 1/4" insulated crimp on the free end and plugs into the wire from the TB WOT SW.
All nice and neat, no holes drilled or changes to stock wires other than a new replacement plug with the addition an insulated pig-tail coming from it.
I will try to take better pics when the weather is better and maybe do a "How-To" The pic above show the WOT switch at the far side of the large butterfly bit. _________________ 924 (84) N/A 2 ltr - 5 Speed - BLACK - Project (looking for 200BHP, any ideas!)
924 (81) N/A 2 ltr - 3 Speed Auto - SURINAM RED (Metallic) - Near Original Spec (sticking with originality)
BOTH ON THE ROAD, BOTH USED EVERY-OTHER DAY |
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gla924sem
Joined: 08 Nov 2002 Posts: 405 Location: Taylor, Michigan
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Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 11:25 pm Post subject: 924 |
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Agree with PorChev
have been called a hick before for saying it....but I will say it proud again. Wire your cold start injector to a switch and start it whenever you want. Simple solution to bad engineering, I call it.
Did something similar years ago on the advice of a local Porsche repair expert in NW suburbs of Detroit. Chris at Munks was right on!!!!!!!!!
Connected my cold start injector to a dash mounted intermittent toggle switch. Starts every time. A few clicks of the switch and she starts cold, warm or hot!!!!! |
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RC

Joined: 25 Mar 2007 Posts: 2637 Location: Australia
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Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 12:11 am Post subject: |
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| 9XX Girl! wrote: | | RC wrote: | Then what happens when you`re driving and put your foot down? Runs so rich that if the motor doesn`t stall it leaves a big cloud of black smoke behind while you watch the fuel gauge drop.
May not be a huge problem if you drive like a woman |
I'm shocked you haven't twiged RC but,
.... the cold start valve gets its positive feed from the engage signal of the starter motor solenoid and, it gets its negative signal via the WOT switch on the TB in this set up. The engine won't run rich or smoke when you boot it unless you are trying to engage the starter motor at the same time, as in reality, the hack involves shorting the thermo time switch/sensor (which is notoriously unreliable after 20 years or so)
the beauty of doing the mod this way is there are no switches, holes etc, in the dash and if the thermo time switch/sensor does decide to work, all well and good. Moreover, i have watched others that have used my car. when it wont start when its hot, people just naturally try giving it more throttle. i have the WOT switch set to cut in at half throttle and it has worked lovely for the last year since it was fitted. my stock Porsche TB that came off had no WOT switch!
as for my driving style, well come sit next to me one day!  |
Doh!
Yes you are right, with the stock wiring on the supply side and the WOT switch parallel with the TTS. Been running with EFI for 2 years now and overlook all those wonderful CIS features. Was thinking of your WOT switch in place of a manual NO push button on the B+ or switched line, like Porschev suggested. The way you have it wired is quite practical and an excellent idea.
Even with CIS didn`t have a hot/ warm start problem as I kept the system maintained. So essentially second Rich`s advise:
| Quote: | The system works when its servicable. It doesn't work when it's broken. It's not a poor design, it's just fine, but it's 30 years old.
Don't bodge it - Fix it |
And | Quote: | | Once you have done this then you can go hacking the system about and putting in another check valve if you really feel the need, despite the fact you have one already. If your old check valve works you will achieve precisely nothing. |
However if the old check valve works and another is installed it will only restrict the flow more, so may likely have an adverse effect. Even if the existing valve leaks it is still a restriction. According to PET the 951 pump is same as 944 (944 608 102 04) and has an external check valve, #944 608 951 01. Would suggest simply replacing that if it is faulty. |
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