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Has anyone converted the G31 to audi style shift linkage?
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I guess my idea would only work one gate, it would be hard to move it sideways to the next gate!

Why is that U joint needed at all? You can shift the tranny by the shaft on the tranny so why would a solid extension to an Audi shift lever set up not work?
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Rocco R16V  



Joined: 03 May 2009
Posts: 497
Location: PNW

PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul wrote:
Why is that U joint needed at all? You can shift the tranny by the shaft on the tranny so why would a solid extension to an Audi shift lever set up not work?

As the shift lever goes through its range of motion (an ARC) it causes the rod to bend at this U-joint. The shifter end of the rod is moving up/down a small amount.
Also, the Torque Tube does have some flex. It is there to allow the shift rod that goes into the trans to be free from this extra force applied in directions that could damage the trans. Think if you took the shift rod on the trans and applied force in a straight up direction, this could apply force to the shift fork and prematurely wear out the fork or bearings/syncros.

Someone also talked about having some “give“ in the linkage (a rubber bushing) as being beneficial in reducing vibration forces that could wear out bearings and linkage within the trans.
I’ve driven cars with front mount transmissions where the shifter goes right into the trans with no external linkage and no bushings of any kind, it did let you feel the vibrations from the motor and trans but was not bothersome. (Mustang with “solid shifter” )

I’m liking this idea more and more.
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v8carreragts  



Joined: 05 Sep 2003
Posts: 665
Location: Tucson, AZ

PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Think if you took the shift rod on the trans and applied force in a straight up direction, this could apply force to the shift fork and prematurely wear out the fork or bearings/syncros.


I doubt this. The way these parts are made the only possible thing you may be able to do in time is possibly oval out the hole in the transaxle case where the shift rod comes out.
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Rocco R16V  



Joined: 03 May 2009
Posts: 497
Location: PNW

PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok probably true, but I still wouldn’t want to use a fixed sleeve instead of a u-joint there.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11724
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm I have both boxes on the floor right now. . .mayhap I'll do some staring this week.
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Grenadiers  



Joined: 20 Feb 2007
Posts: 3222
Location: Nelson, WI & Prescott, AZ

PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
Hmm I have both boxes on the floor right now. . .mayhap I'll do some staring this week.


You need to repost your coffee/booze pic along with this sentence!!
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15548
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, it's not perfected just yet, but here's my "proof-of-concept". Everything seems to work just fine in terms of operating the gear shifter. Even the adjustment on the Audi shift-lever works.

The part I need to perfect though is the height of the shift rod itself. In this current iteration, it's probably too high and may interfere with the top of the TT tunnel. Haven't attempted installation yet to find out. The Audi rod required some creative forming to prevent it from interfering where the torque tube and gearbox mate. This particular rod was a 4-speed Audi so it's pretty much throw away, I can continue to massage it until I get it right, then apply the mods to a good 5-speed Audi shift rod I have on the shelf.








On the Audi shift lever, you can see the original position of the stock Audi pivot pin, which I ground off the weld and removed. I then drilled two holes below that that simulate the stock G31 pivot distance and the Lizard short shifter pivot distance. Using the stock Audi pivot point made the shifts EXTREMELY short. The bolt arrangement will probably need some perfecting as well, as it may interfere during shifting with the shifter hole in the tunnel, but it works fine as is for a proof-of-concept.

Oh yeah, and a gratuitous sneak preview of the UWB with the front fenders hung and the front suspension now bolted up!!!
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Last edited by ideola on Sat Jul 18, 2009 2:35 am; edited 1 time in total
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Rocco R16V  



Joined: 03 May 2009
Posts: 497
Location: PNW

PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks IDEOLA!

looks like the rod will need a strange kink at the trans/tt junction to fit within the tunnel.

With it bolted in the longest throw (as shown), how was the side to side throw/feel?
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15548
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a little hard to judge with the gearbox sitting on the floor...but to be frank, it felt a LOT like the firm, crisp shifts that I enjoy using Lizard's short shifter on my 941. Side to side action was no issue, but I suspect I'll have to address the bolting arrangement as noted above.

I do think it's going to need a strange kink at the coupling. However, if you could find a shorter u-joint, it might be just doable without the kink. The interesting thing is that if you look at the stock G31 primary shift rod, the diameter of the rod where it attaches to the shift joint is pretty small, probably no more than 14mm. Now we know why...the smaller profile is required for clearance. Also, the stock u-joint is about half the length of the standard u-joint I'm using. On the cheap piece I bought (from McMaster), I had to grind off about 2-3mm on the one side so that it didn't hit the flange when shifting into R-2-4.

I'm going to play around some more with the geometry of the shift rod before I try putting it in the car. Once I perfect that aspect, I'd like to redo the whole setup it with a higher quality u-joint, and I'll probably use hex head set screws (instead of the pan head as in the photos) because I think I'll want to safety wire them on a track car
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15548
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 5:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last night, I worked out some enhancements and tweaks to the geometry of this setup and got the torque tube up into the car. I won't know for 100% certain until the engine and trans are installed, but I am about 98% sure that my latest iteration will have NO clearance issues with the rod in the tunnel.

Here is the complete writeup:
How to build an Audi-style shift linkage for a G31 gearbox
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Rocco R16V  



Joined: 03 May 2009
Posts: 497
Location: PNW

PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 7:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Ideola, Thats great!
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milnersXcoupe  



Joined: 12 May 2009
Posts: 25
Location: New Paltz, NY

PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 2:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Übermench Ideola Schnell Kopf !
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