924Board.org

[924turborox]

Since i am in need to fix my shifting problems i was wondering what tools i need to replace the bushings at the front of the shifter and the rear above the tranny and how much a new metal bushing would be since i figure the rubber one(s) will continue wearing out anyway and i'd rather replace it not so often and most definitely how to replace the bushing itself
Thank you Porsche community

[Rasta Monsta]

Search
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Toofah King Bad

• WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3

[Martijnus]

You need standard wrenches, 10mm iirc. And perhaps 13-14mm... anyway, more important is a circlip tool. That's all actually.
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"Rule: Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun." (C. Bell)

924 "50-jahre", 1981.
MSII/extra, LPG, ITB's, 5lug.
To be turbo'ed in a while.
Killed her at the Nurburgring, Porscheless at the moment

[924turborox]

thank you
sooo now that i know what tools i have to get, how much are metal bushings to replace the worn out rubber ones? i have genuinely now idea
and Rasta Monsta what did u mean? i didnt understand your post on my subject at all....

[Smoothie]

Obviously Rasta was suggesting use of the search function. Topics like this (as well as almost everything else you might want to know) have been covered multitudinous times. -So it's generally quicker, and good form, etc. to use the search function first, then start up a new topic only after your luck runs out in finding what you need to know. -And if/when you do find a previous relevant topic, to avoid unecessary repetition add any required follow-up questions to that topic.

-And better not to develop a habit of asking questions here in the How To forum (it's meant for passing on info on how to do things that have already been done, rather than "how do I do this or that...") - http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=17666
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."


'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

[fiat22turbo]

I'm working on my 79 with the snailshell (dogleg 5-speed) which should be similar to early 924 turbos.

Here is a mock-up of what it looks like before disassembly:



Keep in mind that getting the transaxle and torque tube out isn't difficult. It just isn't much fun.

Make sure you have the proper 12-point (triple square) bits for the CV joint/axle bolts or you'll be in for a long day. Unless you're lucky enough to have a car where they've been replaced.

Make note on the axles which joint is currently the inside and outside joint, you may want to swap them during reassembly to improve their wear patterns

Drop the exhaust system. If you've been eying a cat-back system now might be a good time to pick one up

There is a mount on the back back of the transaxle for the rear muffler and there is another brace extending backwards from the transaxle. Remove these to ease in removing the transaxle.

Remove both access covers from the bottom of the transaxle nose and the rear of the torque tube to access the pinch bolts for the driveline coupler. Rotate the driveshaft to gain access to the heads of the bolts.

You'll need a 6mm allen head socket for the pinch bolts and you'll need to remove the bolts completely to get the coupler to come loose.

It helps to slide the coupler backwards slightly before taking the torque tube loose from the transaxle.

You'll need a 10mm allen head socket to get the bolts loose where the torque tube meets the front of the transaxle. You can only reach the bottom ones until you get further into the removal process.

Always support the transaxle when you begin to take it loose from the car.

Remove the transaxle mounts at the side of the transaxle above the axles.

Lower the transaxle slightly and use a 13mm wrench to remove the bolt from the shift linkage joint at the nose of the transaxle. I would suggest a ratcheting boxwrench to save your arms a lot of aching. Remove the bolt and use a drift and hammer to tap the joint off the shaft.

You may have to remove the bracing and loosen the hardware holding the torque tube in place behind the engine to get enough movement.



You should be able to reach the top two torque tube bolts now.

Here are all the pieces you'll need once you get the torque tube and shift rods out of the car:



I've got the new bushings here along with some sockets I used with my vise to press the joint at the transaxle apart, press the new bushings in and press the pin back into place.













The front shift lever bushings are plain easy and can be done from inside the car. Mine were in good shape, but I managed to lose one along the way so I just replaced them while I was at it.

The rear bushings have to go in correctly to work. Pay attention to the flange. My new ones while better than the ones that I didn't have, still have some slop to them which is disappointing. The slight play in the linkage probably isn't bad enough to worry about but either way, I've got bigger issues to fight at the moment.

If you look in the performance upgrades forum, under the planning thread, in the transaxle section there is a discussion on how to shorten the throw in the snailshell cars. Smoothie found that adding an inch between the pivot points on the shift lever shortens the throw nicely. If you're good with a welder, you can likely do this yourself fairly cheap.

Assembly is essentially the reverse of disassembly, just be sure to use locktite on the bolts for the axles along with proper torque specs. Now would be a good time to swap your axles left to right making the outer joints the inner joints to even their wear. Obviously you need to make sure the CV joints are in good shape and properly lubricated.

If you have drum brakes, take the time to adjust them and bleed your brake system before putting the wheels back on.

Hope this helps!
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Stefan
1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose)

[ideola]

Very nice write up, and great photos!!! This will make a handy reference when I start putting mine back into the UWB project...which hopefully will only be another week or two out...
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erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made

[Shurick]

I'm looking at the picture and thinking what's wrong here...


Is the shift lever setup correct? I can't see the spring plates there and also the pins of the shifting and holding rods are swapped referring to my setup.
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WBR, Shurick
'79 931 -- intercooled K26-3060-6.10 turbo @ 1.2 bar, EFI+EDIS, 951S brakes, stripped interior, 951 look.
'86 924S -- R.I.P.
https://www.instagram.com/ru_pacecar/

[Fifty50Plus]

Has anyone found a replacement bushing for the locating (second) shift rod that goes on the ball socket shape near the snailshell transmission on the torque tube ?
Thanks,
Chuck

[tuurbo]

Good job Dude. This should come in handy for those of us with the dogleg box.
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1980 924 turbo, MSD, Meth. Inj, otherwise stock.

[fiat22turbo]

[JackRabbit]

Where can I buy these rear linkage 5-speed bushings?
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'79 Porsche 924
'05 Honda Civic
'07 BMW K1200R
'78 Honda Express
'52 Willy's
'58 Wheel Horse

[ideola]

Pelican, Paragon, EBS, and dc Automotive all carry upgraded poly versions of these bushings. All of them can also get the rear "angular joint" (the cup on the end of the guide tube), as well as the plastic plain bearings for the shifter itself. The bushing for the guide tube is stupid expensive. I have two good spares available if anybody needs one.

Related reading: http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=29351

Part numbers are all listed here: http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?p=256684#256684
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erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made

[JackRabbit]

muchos gracias. I'll let you know if I need... or I guess you could let me know if I need one.
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'79 Porsche 924
'05 Honda Civic
'07 BMW K1200R
'78 Honda Express
'52 Willy's
'58 Wheel Horse

[ideola]

Stefan, what happend to the pix???

I snagged copies of them all, but don't have 'em hosted online anywhere...we need these pix back in this thread!
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erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made