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A/C Q. in AZ help. air conditioning

 
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jdub  



Joined: 04 Mar 2014
Posts: 72
Location: AZ

PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2014 7:08 am    Post subject: A/C Q. in AZ help. air conditioning Reply with quote

[No response needed anymore- see the bottom note]

>
I'm about to tackle the disconnected AC after outting te belt back on, what appears to be a newer AC Compressor.
1. under the car at very bottom if an AC hose there is some kind of a green switch with 2 black wires coming out- mine are clipped off. can it stay that way later when i get it charged? connect the wires together or not?
Where would they go to correctly?
2.
Ive done some ac charging and jumping compressor on newer car, but...
I cant find a diagram or tutorial for this car. Anyone have a decent link?

its R12 still i'm assuming

Thanks!!!💂

UPDATE after I posted this:
After trying to charge system, there is probably a restriction in a valve, and the clutch started to make noise, so I quit. I'll leave this alone until I want to replace things. (but I left this for those who were wondering about unanswered Qs)
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81 924 non-turbo


Last edited by jdub on Sun Jun 08, 2014 8:03 am; edited 1 time in total
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larchie  



Joined: 19 Jun 2003
Posts: 297

PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2014 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This 1979 current-flow diagram for the Nippondenso might help, but I don't see a switch with two black wires in the circuit. I doubt that you can find R12 anymore even if you had EPA certification.


Nippondenso Air Conditioner 1979 Porsche 924
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2014 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is this a factory a/c system? That might be the pressure switch, have a pic? Are the "cut" wires spliced together?
Are you sure there is pressure in the system?
You can still get R12, there are ways.
You can use 134A but the rubber lines meant for R12 have larger pores that the smaller 134A molecules can escape though, this means you will have a to charge the system more frequently.
You will also need to change the compressor oil.
If the system has been empty for awhile you may also need a new receiver/dryer.
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larchie  



Joined: 19 Jun 2003
Posts: 297

PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2014 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's also an electrical diagram for the 1984 Porsche 944 air conditioner linked on Pelican Parts' Porsche 924/944 Electrical Diagrams page.
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jdub  



Joined: 04 Mar 2014
Posts: 72
Location: AZ

PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2014 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok thanks this will get me started,

had something come up tonight but i hope to start tackling it tomorrow eve,

i will try to get a pict of that sensor or switch right on that lower hose line
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2014 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You didn't say if the cut wires were wired together. Is the switch in the line or on the compressor?
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jdub  



Joined: 04 Mar 2014
Posts: 72
Location: AZ

PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2014 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi
the sensor switch thing is on the hose/line, and they are separatE (and cut), almost like a thermo temp switch on the radiator (except this is probably some sort of pressure switch i would guess)
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2014 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is a pressure switch. If its between the compressor and condenser, its on the high side and therefore is a high pressure switch. A high pressure switch shuts the compressor off in the event that system pressure is too high.
On the "low side", there is a low pressure switch. The low pressure switch shuts the compressor off in the event system pressure (not enough refrigerant) is too low. This ensures there is enough refrigerant to carry oil through the system to save the compressor from damage. This is the switch you "jump out" to male the compressor run.
Have you determined if this is a factory system?
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jdub  



Joined: 04 Mar 2014
Posts: 72
Location: AZ

PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 5:30 am    Post subject: Help - ready Reply with quote

okay, i just back on this, sorry i had a girl graduating

It IS a 134a system, newer compressor! (Tama - japa)

the clutch engages on the compressor- the wire was cut, so i jump tested it directly to battery + , and the clutch engages with no strange noises.

However, there is no cooler air, so I will be getting it charged/gauged shortly when my neighbor gets back.

SWITCH/WIRES - Where does compressor's trigger wire go?
1. Where will the + trigger wire go to when I connect a new wire? I assume right into the relay terminal inside car. But, is there a place I should look where it would've entered the car? I may be able to connect there.

2. Presure Switch wires:
this picture is of the switch on the line from the a/c radiator/condensor to the compressor - so it must be a HIGH pressure switch (and that line is where I'll connect the high on my gauge)
See the cut wires.
[url=http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n629/jefforstacyw/photo.jpg[/url]

(the other line is going from the compressor into the firewall, so that must be the low side.)

Where would the pressure switch wires go?
I do have a trimmed NEGATIVE ground wire also on the body of the compressor.


[img]
[url]http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n629/jefforstacyw/photo.jpg[url]

tHANK YOUUUU
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 11:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I cant see your pics.
The compressor + comes from the low pressure switch which gets its feed from the amplifier. The amplifier is a small black box under the dash by the glovebox that controls the compressor on/off.

The 924 didn't have a factory high pressure switch. It was probably left disconnected for that reason.
The clutch - is grounded at the compressor body.
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carrera clone  



Joined: 02 Mar 2013
Posts: 8
Location: AUSTRALIA

PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 1:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi it's definitely a pressure switch, it could have been disconnected for a reason, does it work, I've retrofitted a few older cars which were originally r12 refrigerant to 134a and found that early pressure switches made the system short cycle as the hi side pressures were slightly higher, they are usually wired in series with the compressor positive wires, as for the earth wire cut on compressor, it's just an extra earthing point, some after market brackets did not earth that well to block
Good luck
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