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Autocross Mods

 
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bcblase  



Joined: 23 Oct 2007
Posts: 574
Location: Winchester, VA

PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 4:03 pm    Post subject: Autocross Mods Reply with quote

In prep for Spring Autocross season, what should I not waste my money on over the winter? (I'm new at this, obviously...)

Opinions wanted on the following:

1. Short-shift conversion - worth the hassle?
2. Throttle response cam - myth or magic?
3. Rear sway bar - MO30 factory or other brand?
4. Strut brace bar - does this help at all?
5. Race tires - which brand or size works best?
6. Shocks and Struts - replace with what?
7. Other options...

It's possible I may take a run or two at Summit Point Race Track also, but just for fun and the experience. I know I need to work on seat time and driving skills the most, but the car is going to be sitting around all winter. I need to prioritize my upgrades.

Thx - BC
_________________
1987 Porsche 924S - track toy
1986 Mercedes 190E 2.3-16v - autocross
2007 F-150 5.4L Lariat Supercrew - tow beast
1994 Volvo 850 Race Wagon - 24 Hours of Lemons Car
2001 BMW 325xi - daily driver
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9075
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My rating of the items you've listed:

1. Rear sway bar - I'd recommend the MO30 factory - very good cost-effectiveness.
2. Shocks and Struts - YMMV, but a lot like the Koni's for the tuneability, probably wouldn't kill you to go this route.
3. Engine tune-up - seriously! plugs, wires, cap, rotor, O2 sensor, etc.
4. Bushings - replace worn stock suspension bushings!!! At bare minimum with stock new rubber parts, but just as easy to upgrade. For the front, that's a-arm bushings and strut mounts; in the rear, that's the torsion bar bushings and trailing arm center pivot bushings. Do the front before the rear, the rear is many times more work.
5. Short-shift conversion - Actually not that much of a hassle, and does a nice job getting rid of shifter slop - but replace the shift lever FIRST, that's a higher priority and your short shifter won't be worth jack until you do.

6. Race tires - slippery slope here, but a good set of street/track tires can make the car much happier to drive both on and off the track.
7. Strut brace bar - only helps if the rest of the front-end is tight (which is why you should do bushings first).
8. Throttle response cam - low priority here

Since you're also talking about tracking your car, realize before you get too far with suspension mods that you'll want more spring rate and torsion bar once you've been around the track a few times and realize how softly these cars are sprung. When the torsion bars are replaced is a great time to replace the rear suspension bushings.

Also keep in mind, if you're planning on doing a lot of autoxing, that a lot of these mods will bump you a class; be sure you know what you're doing!
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'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 2808
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 1:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

To get fast around the track start with race tires, it will do the most performance gain.

Then start with suspension tune up..
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bcblase  



Joined: 23 Oct 2007
Posts: 574
Location: Winchester, VA

PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 4:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What can I do that will not bump me up a class? I know that if I stay with "stock" or factory options, I won't get bumped up.

M030 sway bar - stock option - this is OK
Shocks/Struts - do I have to stay with OEMs?
Bushings - OK, if I stick with rubber?
Short-shifter - not stock, I know
Race tires - these are OK, right?
Diff Springs rates - not stock?

BC
_________________
1987 Porsche 924S - track toy
1986 Mercedes 190E 2.3-16v - autocross
2007 F-150 5.4L Lariat Supercrew - tow beast
1994 Volvo 850 Race Wagon - 24 Hours of Lemons Car
2001 BMW 325xi - daily driver
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JSilverman  



Joined: 16 May 2006
Posts: 93
Location: Burke, VA

PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 5:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bcblase wrote:
What can I do that will not bump me up a class? I know that if I stay with "stock" or factory options, I won't get bumped up.
Who do you plan on autocrossing with? If they follow SCCA stock rules then:

M030 rear sway bar bumps you up to Street Prepared since it was never available on a 924.

Shocks/Struts are free

OEM bushings required

Short Shifter not legal, bumps you to SP

Any DOT tire (including R comps) are legal.

Springs must be OEM. If you have to stay in stock class the M030 springs will be stiffest at around 140#. Youll also have to find the M030 adjustable spring perches, and 20mm non adjustable rear sway bar to make the swap legal.

Personally I say build the car how you want it, and run where they put you. You might nt be competitive but at least you can go have some fun! I have 400# springs/30mm torsion bars with koni yellow shocks and Im very happy with it. I havent taken the car to an autocross, but it does very well at track days. If you want to go for a ride to see how stiff the car is let me know, Im not too far from you and Im out at a buddy's house in Berryville quite often. You shoudl definitely take the car out to Summit Point! That place is awesome especially after the repave they just finished. It would be nice to actually see another 924 at the track.
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joecitizennn  



Joined: 12 Sep 2005
Posts: 2096
Location: no mans land

PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

M030 rear sway bar bumps you up to Street Prepared since it was never available on a 924.

You are forgetting the SE
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87 924s
88 924SE gone
447 hp cgt clone
87 924S gone
84 944 sold
83 944 sold
89 turbo S LSD, ABS etc
86 951 white rocket
85 944 sport everything.
84 944 sold.
87 944 sold
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JSilverman  



Joined: 16 May 2006
Posts: 93
Location: Burke, VA

PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 924 M030 bar would be legal as long as you swapped the entire option package, which means the springs and threaded collars as well. I was referring the 19mm adjustable rear sway bar that was on the 968.
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Matt Norton  



Joined: 14 Apr 2006
Posts: 196
Location: Montour Falls/Watkins Glen NY

PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 5:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheepest way to upgrade sway bars is to go with the 944 turbo front and back. I ran into a guy at a PCA Autocros who took first place with the set up. I think PCA may be a bit easyer on upgrading between modles but ya build the car the way you want! That is my plan and a short shifter in on my whish list after the D Production body kit, sway bars, racing bushings and tires. I may put a racing chip in it too at some point.
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bcblase  



Joined: 23 Oct 2007
Posts: 574
Location: Winchester, VA

PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you go with the racing chip, I have heard that the FR Wilk chip cannot be beat. It's more money ($200) than the cheap eBay chips, but this guy practically (re)designed the DME for the 924S/944, and he knows his stuff. It's next on my list of upgrades.

www.frwilk.com

Plus, he has some really hot chicks on his website!

BC
_________________
1987 Porsche 924S - track toy
1986 Mercedes 190E 2.3-16v - autocross
2007 F-150 5.4L Lariat Supercrew - tow beast
1994 Volvo 850 Race Wagon - 24 Hours of Lemons Car
2001 BMW 325xi - daily driver
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Matt Norton  



Joined: 14 Apr 2006
Posts: 196
Location: Montour Falls/Watkins Glen NY

PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice! l Like the dual chip set up. At a flick of a switch you can relese the hidden beast. Very nice for runing events that require stock set up and then turning around and having some fun at DE on the track. too cool. not a bad price compared to some of the others out there with multi settings.

How easy is it to install on our cars? We should have the EProm slot right?
so is it just a mater of pulling one out and putting the new one in?

It's going on my upgrade list too!
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Red 1987 924S with plans for D Productions Kit
From American International Racing.
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bcblase  



Joined: 23 Oct 2007
Posts: 574
Location: Winchester, VA

PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2008 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ordered my FR Wilk chip the other day - it has an interesting setup. He provides a jumper for the altitude sensor (no longer used) to trigger the chip code. Without the jumper, you run the stock code. You can cut the jumper and install a switch on the dash, or elsewhere.

"Warp factor 9, Mr. Sulu" <hitting magic switch>

Altitude sensor and cracked open DME below. The EPROM chip is on the upper left side of the circuit board.



BC
_________________
1987 Porsche 924S - track toy
1986 Mercedes 190E 2.3-16v - autocross
2007 F-150 5.4L Lariat Supercrew - tow beast
1994 Volvo 850 Race Wagon - 24 Hours of Lemons Car
2001 BMW 325xi - daily driver
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Matt Norton  



Joined: 14 Apr 2006
Posts: 196
Location: Montour Falls/Watkins Glen NY

PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2008 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just got an email with instalation instrutions. looks easy enouph. Now we are all eager to hear how it works. so do tell does it really release a sleeping giant or is it just hype.
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From American International Racing.
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bcblase  



Joined: 23 Oct 2007
Posts: 574
Location: Winchester, VA

PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the chip, got it installed, but the car is up on jacks while I am working on the engine and suspensions components.

I'll post an update when I get it back on the road.

BC
_________________
1987 Porsche 924S - track toy
1986 Mercedes 190E 2.3-16v - autocross
2007 F-150 5.4L Lariat Supercrew - tow beast
1994 Volvo 850 Race Wagon - 24 Hours of Lemons Car
2001 BMW 325xi - daily driver
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bcblase  



Joined: 23 Oct 2007
Posts: 574
Location: Winchester, VA

PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 4:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
1. Rear sway bar - I'd recommend the MO30 factory - very good cost-effectiveness.
2. Shocks and Struts - YMMV, but a lot like the Koni's for the tuneability, probably wouldn't kill you to go this route.
3. Engine tune-up - seriously! plugs, wires, cap, rotor, O2 sensor, etc.
4. Bushings - replace worn stock suspension bushings!!! At bare minimum with stock new rubber parts, but just as easy to upgrade. For the front, that's a-arm bushings and strut mounts; in the rear, that's the torsion bar bushings and trailing arm center pivot bushings. Do the front before the rear, the rear is many times more work.
5. Short-shift conversion - Actually not that much of a hassle, and does a nice job getting rid of shifter slop - but replace the shift lever FIRST, that's a higher priority and your short shifter won't be worth jack until you do.
6. Race tires - slippery slope here, but a good set of street/track tires can make the car much happier to drive both on and off the track.
7. Strut brace bar - only helps if the rest of the front-end is tight (which is why you should do bushings first).
8. Throttle response cam - low priority here


My Busy Winter Update:

Front Springs - done, 250# Weltmeister
Shocks and Struts - done, KYB Gas Adjust
Front Sway Bar - done, 30 mm hollow
Rear Sway Bar - done, 19 mm adjustable
Race Tires - done, Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1s
Throttle Response Cam - done, Weltmeister
DME Racing Chip - done, FR Wilk PowerProm 3K5
Motor Mounts - done, OEM 951 heavy duty
Vacuum Hoses - done, Lindsey Racing Silicone Kit
Bushings - some replacements, need to do more
Shift Lever Replacement - done, Momo
Engine Tune-Up - in process
Short Shift Conversion - not done
Strut Brace - not done

Almost ready for the Autocross season to start...finally.

Think Spring!
BC
_________________
1987 Porsche 924S - track toy
1986 Mercedes 190E 2.3-16v - autocross
2007 F-150 5.4L Lariat Supercrew - tow beast
1994 Volvo 850 Race Wagon - 24 Hours of Lemons Car
2001 BMW 325xi - daily driver
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